Shags-

Gears are dependent upon a couple things. Tire size, tranny gear ratios, and motor are the main ones. I can't imagine going over 4.88. 5.13 is like flushing a toilet when you hit the gas. As far as the axles, if the housings are larger, then yes it will lift a bit, but maybe 1/2". The ring and pinion are still in the middle of the housing, which keeps the axles there too. So, you should be pretty close with clearing that nemesis also known as the garage door. I wish I had the $$$$ to do the swaps, I'm still dreaming about a 14SF rear. I would also go for your option of disc brakes. I don't know if they will clear a 15" wheel in back with the 8 lug axle, but call the guys at TSM, I'm sure they've done stuff for guys like Shawn. Disc brakes will cut your stopping distance just about in 1/2, and they are much easier to work on as well. My .02

Rhino

 

Re: Double double cardans

That's certainly the best way to relieve driveline binding. Rotating the pinion will do it, but will introduce harmonic vibration - especially in a shaft pushing 4.88's at 65mph! To keep a U-jointed shaft system's output rotating at constant velocity, the input & output shafts MUST be parallel, and all the joints MUST be in phase. This isn't a concern for trail vehicles (especially rock crawlers), but for reliability & durability on the highway it's mandatory.

BTW That little green font is a killer on the eyes - can you raise it a couple of points?

Steve 83 Bronco 4.9L

Build it; Don't buy it...

 

Re: Double double cardans

FrankP can give you some detailed info about the swap. apparently it isn;t the easiest swap in the world.
---Peacock

If it hasn't broken, let your girlfriend drive it...it'll break real quick

 

I would go with 4.88's, A dana 60 will lift you up about 1.5 inches because the spring perches are higher off axle tubes and the axle tubes are bigger. You will have to grind about 1/2 inch off the calipers to clear 15" wheels-you will be at it all day. If you don't have the funds for the AGR ramrock hydraulic assisted steering-you just about have to go with the ARB air locker. If you go with a detroit you will not be able to steer when in 4wd. Don't forget to adjust the axle stops so you don't start pulling the steering box off the frame and cause cracks-saw this at Tellico this past weekend. If you are able to go with the rear disc-no hydro.boost needed-use dot5 fuild to keep the rust down.

 

Definately get the crossover steering kit. I have a crewcab and I could only imagine the tight turning radius of a SWB truck or Blazer with this kit.

kill something everyday, no matter how small, just to remain proficient.

 

ARB up front, disc brakes in the rear, 1 ton double CV front driveshaft made by Jesse Haynes or drivelineman on here, and skip the body lift.

1992 Blazer Sport, 350 TBI, 3" Flowmaster 40 DF, 4L60, K&N, Rancho 2.5" lift, 285/75R16's on 16x8 Bajas /wwwthreads_images/icons/laugh.gif

 

They dont just bolt in. My plight is well documented on this board. Still trying to make a friday deadline for TN trip. Had to buy a $165 steering link today because the D60 arm didn't come in my lift kit. Brake lines are lower on D60 so I have to buy longer lines or figure out if it is safe to link two together. Upper spring plate is done I made it out of a piece of armor. Make a long list of everything and talk to all vendors involved in detail. Lots of little stuff that was overlooked that is costing dearly now.

 

This is passenger plate, I got shorter bolts today to get rid of washers.

 

Man, unless those plates are like 1/2" thick, I'd be really worried about them bending and letting the axle loose. Is it too late for you to get a lip welded onto the top of each end that runs across the spring to keep the U-bolts from pulling the sides down?

Steve 83 Bronco 4.9L

Build it; Don't buy it...

 

This is armor plating, had to use welder to drill it. It wont bend. Torque specs are only 55 ft/lbs.Thanks

 

My Dana 60 only lifted the K5 1" more. I measured the center of axle shafts to top of spring perch and compared it against an 8 lug D44. If you have to do new gears front and rear and are considering 40's, I'd suggest 5.13 gears. Interco is planning on coming out with more 16" sizes later this year and they will be the larger tires so you might consider 16" rims. I think a CV joint at both ends is a little overkill. You might talk to Jesse at Highangle. I think it would cause a balance problem. The 1350 CV actually has a better operating angle than my old shafts with small joints. The 80 degree 1410 CV joints have a limiting RPM use. I'd consider cutting and rotating the D60 instead (would actually be cheaper than dual CV's). You might also consider just hacking the metal and keep the center of gravity low. Hope this helps.

Shawn
87 K5
few mods

 

Wow, Your plans are almost mirroring mine. (exactly like). I will be doing the 1 ton swap next month and have all the parts for crossover, rear disk, and RockRam!!
I'm only going with 36" right now though, b/c that's the largest TSL Radial ins 16" size wheels. Interco is coming out with more 16" size tires in the future, so I'm set there. With 16" wheels, no grinding required.
Anyhow, I would say Crossover steering is a must when you do this. You're already there, so might as well, so save the money on the body lift and go with the Crossover, then rear brakes. Damn, gotto go to lunch now, I'll reread and post if I have a chance later

The Boss now allows you to visit his site
http://www.boss.coloradok5.com

 

Thanks for all of the opinions guys.

Rhino, yeah, I'm aware of the factors that go into gear selection, but since this is primarily an off-road vehice, I want them as deep as possible without making the 200 mile drive to Pismo an all day affair.

Steve, I rotated the pinion on my current D44, and really don't want to use shims to rotate the pinion on the 60. I want to do it right. Looks like I'll have to find a place that can cut and turn an axle, I don't know of any in this area. I raised the font size a bit for you.

I've been reading about Frank's exploits, and it's kind of made me decide to buy a complete donor truck to do the swap from. I'll pick up a pair of cheapie half ton axles from the wrecking yard too and throw those back into the donor so I can sell it when I'm done. My axles are gutted already, and I don't have all of the stock parts left.

Titanic, even with the minimal backspacing 15s are going to require that much grinding? I want to stay with 15s for a couple reasons, not the least of which is the fact that I have a nearly new set of 38" Radial Swampers. Those things are not cheap. The lack of availability for 16" tires also kills me, plus the fact that I've never seen beadlocks for 16s (which certainly doesn't mean they aren't made).

Shawn, I was actually hoping that Jesse would respond to this about that shaft, but I'm sure he's real busy after that article in FW about his 80 degree shaft/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif. You have any idea how much a cut and turn runs? Also, my center of gravity is as low as possible with 38s. I've smacked the front tires on the floor of the cab before, with the wheels pointed straight. 40s would rub like crazy without a bit more lift. I think I'm going to stay with the 38s though, it's not like I need bigger tires for the mud that's in CA anyways.

Boss, yeah, I agree crossover is a must, I just wanted some opinions. Crossover with the Rockram would be the ultimate in cool. I've ended up with no steering before when I get a tire pinned on a rock, and it seriously sucks to have to back up and make another runat an obstacle just because the tires won't turn.

Evan/wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif
Ugly Truck v2.0 coming soon!

 

Here's my opinions on this:

15" wheels - A guy in our club is running 15x10 rims with 4.25" backspacing on a front 60. Obviously he had to grind quite a bit off the calipers and backing plates but it still looks okay. After some sanding and paint you can't hardly tell. Only having 3" of backspacing shouldn't be too bad and I've heard people say that only a minimal amount of grinding is needed.

ARB vs. Detroit in the front - The ARB is obviously a nice thing to have, but for several hundred dollars less the Detroit isn't that bad. Most of the guys in our club prefer the Detroit in the front for this reason, and while there are instances in which steering is tough, most of the time they have no problems. One of these trucks is running 42x15 Swampers and rarely has problems.

Difficulties with the axle swap - The swap is really pretty basic. It's not like you have to custom fabricate any parts. The only thing you really need is a complete axle assembly, u-bolts, spring plates, and a conversion u-joint (if retaining the stock shaft). That's bolt-in in my book.

6.2Blazer

 

FrankP ran into alot of problems but the swap is basicly a bolt in with the proper parts. Make sure the front end is a chevy and not a dodge. The steering arm should be on the correct side and fit the stock drag link. The spring plates and u-bolts can be purchased if they aren't with the front end. From your list the extra money shouldn't be a problem. The rear u-bolts can be purchased from a junkyard if the axle didn't come with them for a couple of bucks. The front drive shaft will work, same u-bolts as stock, unless your lift is over 4" and then the driveshaft will need to be longer. The rear can be fixed by having the rear yoke on the drive shaft changed to a one ton. This isn't that expensive and if the lift is more than 4" it will need to lenghtened anyway. On my conversion I used SS brake lines (8" lift) and the ones for the stock front end fit the 60.
Definately go with discs in the rear. It is alot easier to change pads than shoes and it also removes about 100 pounds of brake parts. TSM makes a kit that uses front calipers for the rear brakes, and they are cheap at the junkyard or parts store. If you need emergency brakes it will cost more.
I run 42" swampers and run 4.56 gears with no problem. I can get them to chirp from a stop when I floor it with an automatic. I am also running a 454. I run Florida mud and this is plenty of gear, if you are rock crawling you might want to go with the 5.13s. It depends on your motor and transmission ratio.
Your steering choices are good. You might want to install a frame reinforcement kit first just to be ready in case the steering box cracks the frame.

 

Thanks guys, the truck already has 6" of lift, so I should be able to get away with having my shafts rebuilt with the 1 ton yokes on the ends. Frame has already been reinforced, but I will be getting the ORD brace too. Thanks again for the input.

BTW, has anybody figured out how to put a disc emergency brake on the rear t-case output of a 205? I've seen them for Samis and Yotas but never a fullsize. Not practical or just doesn't work?

Evan/wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif
Ugly Truck v2.0 coming soon!

 

i think i saw something about this on the front page here. the stainless steel disc brakes thing...I"m pretty sure i saw an E-brake set up in there. not sure though
http://www.off-road.com/chevy
---Peacock

If it hasn't broken, let your girlfriend drive it...it'll break real quick

 

Could a person use a micro brake lock as a emergency brake? Just a thaught!

/wwwthreads_images/icons/cool.gif '87 Chevy 1t SWB in the making!

 

Actually, I would love to see info on how to add a disk parking bake to the rear output of a 205. I know they did it with the TH475s in motor homes, I wonder if that could be adapted and used somehow? If it adds much length though, it would cause even more trouble for the rear angles on a K5...

Bad Dog

85 K30 CUCV, 350 TBI, TH400, NP205, D60/C14, 4.56
Coming soon: 4" lift, 40" tires, massive cutting, shorter wb and rear overhang.