Tha damage looks way to familiar, but the parts are kinda puny. Some kinda flange mounted, T case, yoke. Maybe a Sami,or other foriegn unit. Looks a little like the 8.8 pinion shaft set up, but way tiny.
Wow, you can get a nice tan on your arms, from welding with no shirt on.
just wondering if anyone is having these problems - 231 short shaft cheepo kit and a 1/2 c/v broken off in the usual place - the design of this kit bothers me- anyone else? just curious - not just sales man- interaction is that a bad thing? thoughts?
oh i see-
they drilled and tapped a hole in the end of the stock tailshaft? i pulled my tailshaft and replaced with one that fits a yoke for the CV shaft. haven't had any probs with mine yet and have been a few thousand miles both on and off road. got it all from tom woods although the SYE was via advance adapter but the shaft was tom's. i was always real hesitant about the design of the SYE that you show here.
87yj,6cly,5spd,NP231,4.5"RE susp,1" body,SYE,CV,32x11.50MTR's,D30,D35posi
this is nice to hear everyone's idea's here- and also how things are holding up- My Name Is Jesse Jaynes - nice to meet you all - i want to make your 4x4 adventures as realaible as possible - so in order to do so i need input - how things are preceived in the jeepers world - i can tell you this my perception is this -(personal not buisiness) when you buy a jeep your constantly upgrading and upgrading- i say this to all vendors that sell up grade parts for anything 4x4 - please take the time and try your own product you sell- you may not sell it anymore -The spline behind the kit is 26 ( turbo 350 same) and the slip yoke stlye oem is in my opion better than the broken off piece you saw in my post- the part in question is a 1310 c/v flange it has a big tendancy to seperate where the u joint goes in- very disturbing to me to see this - I am in no way knocking tom woods or other here- Tom does a great job on his drivelines and customer service is excellent - polite on the phone to me when i called a while back- the man has earned his trust-! I want any more input on what you all think if you so see fit- to these question if poss- #1 rubicon express has a kit around 99.00 uses the stock output shaft and redrilles it - # 2 tom woods makes his output shaft (oem) drilled for ease of install and provides a flange style bolt up 1/2 ton $ i beleive 575.00 $ complete with driveline or so- # 3 short shaft kit heavy duty 32 spline ( atlas and 205 style output) pricing around 289.00 $ or so- sources - tom woods - bayougeep- advanced adapters - and various other companys- Then there is the driveline (early style c/v ) not flanged 1/2 ton mainly tested over time - around 250+ up this kit requires 2 hours of labor to take your case out and disasemble then reassemble - what if any input does everyone have with these SHORT SHAFT 231 KITS? i would like to see people get there fullest money's worth when upgrading - Thanks for your time ,JESS
Jesse you have my bussiness when i am ready to buy a rear shaft (1 ton cv for a np205). You saw a post i made on this board last Sept about my buildup and emailed me. Some people might call that pushing your product, but i thought it showd alot of motivation and drive on your part. You had all the answers to my questions. Thanks.
Hey guys, Let me tell you. Jess really does care about the customer. And he has his products tested continualy, by some of the top drivers in the nation.
I have talked to many drivers about his products and service, and all accounts are in the highest regaurds. I saw a couple of his drive shafts while helping one of the Pirates of the Rubicon members,(Brandon) wire up the 5.0 in his Yota this morning. we got to talking drivelines, with a few other seriouse wheelers who stopped by and the concensus, was that Jess understands that just honoring a warranty does not a good drive shaft make. He knows that competitions can be lost, weekends can be ruined, and even vehicle damage and injuries can happen when your drive line fails. So he builds them to reliably withstand, the most brutal conditions. And he makes soem very trick assemblies.
I for one dont mind someone who takes our best interest to heart, while trying to eek out a living, in a field he understands and respects.
Give him your input, he is continualy developing new products, and more than likely already has a tested product to fit or solve most any unusual problems.
I think the Tera style SYE kits hold up the best. They supply a high strength new shaft(no modified shafts, so no core credit either though)(in fact I heard from one source that they use NP241 specs for their shafts???). They also supply the new housing, bearings and seals, and either a CV or U joint style Spicer yoke. Its not that expensive considering what you get. I think they go for about $450-$500, plus you need to order a new drive shaft. Hey, rear drivelines take a beating, they will fail you if they have any weaknesses(and even if they dont), usually at the most inopurtune time.
And Yes, ill be ordering mine soon, I just dont want to order one before I reposition my rear axle,(hopefully right after the Rubicon Club Challenge next Saturday).
Wow, you can get a nice tan on your arms, from welding with no shirt on.
h8 thanks for the book- i've been reading alot of your posts lately- you seem very in touch with what's going on - i respect that about ya- hope to come up with some idea's that will get us all through the BOX! and on the 241 kit that's interesting - i heard the tera kit was made over sea's but who knows - i have heard of a few company's offering a lifetime waranty on there output shafts - must be good i say- i'll be in and out this week - talka t ya all latr-jess
I liked your second approach a lot better...
... direct, to the point and with good tech background and info.
Using a 'come on' subject line and a 'quiz' may be OK for most...
I just just doesn't set very well with me, personally.
IMHO: A much better (and honest) approach may have gone something like ...
Subject: "Drive line opinions & input needed."
You might even be surprised that a more pointed subject will draw a LOT more revelant comment. /wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif
I've read some of your past posts on this and the POR site and have no doubt as to your ernestness, ingegrity and quality of your products. I even appreciate someone with your knowledge and ability coming onto the forums for product previews and announcments, tech info and helpful replies to questions and yes, even to seek out input, opinions, market demand, or even customer satisfaction of competitors goods.
I didn't, however, think your last post here that went ... "Is it true" ... was in good taste since basically you were trying to find out here if Tom Woods was really having a three to four week backlog.
I just hope you will realize that how you 'come on' needs to be carefully considered since you are basically 'crossing the line' from the commercial side.
So, welcome and post away. Just don't make your infrequent and impromptu posts sound so much like an opening line to a commercial ad. It just raises my hackles.
Nuff said on that subject and I appologize for raising my voice and saying my mind if any find it unwarranted. No offence intended.
Hell, I'll probably be one of your customers some day.
jaffer - thanks for the input and i do see how things can be crossed from time to time - as for tom's back log it was bad taste how it came across - i was working 10-15 hours a day trying to keep my down time to 1-3 days - pushing my self too hard as usual - and i heard that and just went wow ! i tried to call tom and tell him i was impressed about customers waiting that long -but got his new guy on the phone and could not talk to tom- not being sarcastic hear at all- i beleive in telling things how they are not pumping things up and having it deflate 2 times as much when you get it- hope this makes sence here- i beleive there is room for all of us driveline guys -we all have a place to fill - thanks again for your good input and you not so good input twards me - i want it all - Jess
I have a Suzuki Samurai, 1988.5 (larger holes on the flanges), and am swapping a D30 and D44 in place of the stock crappy axles. How do I mate the them to the Zuk flanges? I'd prefer to go with a larger 1310 joint (kinda doesn't sound right, 1310 large?), and will be heading to a CV in the rear. Oh yeah, I'll probably need some kind of long travel slip yokes as well due to the YJ spring conversion.
On the above post, looks like the yoke failed, not the SYE kit. I'm wondering if that was a binding failure from an extreme angle.
Winter Harbor, Maine
'81 CJ-8 Scrambled, It's a Jeep, Chevy, IHC kinda thing!
'88.5 Zuki, 5" Calmini, Locked, Swamped, Rolled, and just generally broken in right!
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