Okay. I have a night class on tuesdays and the last 2 times that I've started my truck and put it in gear (to get the puck outta there) after that class, it has died before it got out of the parking space. Its almost like the tc locks up before it should, causing the idle to drop too far to sustain and then it just dies. Is this an indicator of a problem, or just a quirk of being cold and not waiting more than 10sec to start moving after start? Thanks in advance!
Another Wierd Idle Problem
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The NSS wont affect the truck once its running, as it only interrupts the start cycle, not the run cycle. Sure, it does control the backup lights, but you could remove it once the trucks running and it wouldnt care. That is, until you had to shut it off and turn it back on again.
Actually the Bronco doen't have a NSS. They use a clutch interloc. The autos have a jumper in the plug from the factory that gets plugged into the clutch switch when you have the manual. The reverse light is a seperate circuit.
It does like you said, effect only the start cycle, not the run...
It does like you said, effect only the start cycle, not the run...
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6,800 Posts
i don't think it became the MLPS until the E4OD days... I'm pretty sure the C6 in my buddy's 87 had a neutral safety switch to make sure the truck isn't started in gear.
UPDATE: I made a long drive yesterday (~60mi) and when I got to where I was going, I tried to back into a parking spot. I went from drive to reverse and then it died again. This time the motor was definately warmed up, and it wasn't that cold out (prolly mid 40's). I checked the tranny fluid and from what I can tell its low. I'll add more today, but is that another part of my problem, or is my tranny just getting finicky? OH, and I forgot to say that its only been dying when I shift into reverse, but its not everytime I shift into reverse.
G
Guest
·when was the last good tune up? it almost sounds like its just a weak spark or something and at low speeds its just not getting enough something.. Either gas, spark or air. Does it have a new filter? Plugs and wires? fuel filter? Is there an idle adjustment on it? Could you turn the idle up a hair? Maybe a vaccum leak..
Just throwing some thoughts out.. Goodluck.
Just throwing some thoughts out.. Goodluck.
Alright, I guess its just time for some good maintainence. It needs the plugs regapped (too large), and it probably needs the air filter cleaned. How often am I supposed to replace the fuel filter? It was ~yr ago, so I don't think that its bad yet, but it has been 15-20k miles too.
I've also noticed that my truck idles faster in reverse, as in once its in reverse and I let off the brake and gas, it will crawl faster than it does in OD,D,2, or 1 and it will climb over stuff better too. This just seems a little odd to me, because isn't 1st supposed to be lower geared than reverse?
Anyway, I'll get caught up on my stuff and keep you advised if I continue to have any problems afterwards. Thanks!
I've also noticed that my truck idles faster in reverse, as in once its in reverse and I let off the brake and gas, it will crawl faster than it does in OD,D,2, or 1 and it will climb over stuff better too. This just seems a little odd to me, because isn't 1st supposed to be lower geared than reverse?
Anyway, I'll get caught up on my stuff and keep you advised if I continue to have any problems afterwards. Thanks!
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1,407 Posts
Matteorr,
dont forget to check the throttle body plates for gum along with the air by-pass valve ports, two things that will definitely cause stalling at idle speeds, other items i can think of is vaccum leak, plugs as you stated (and if there bosch platinums-toss em
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), and dont forget to check for trouble codes... looooong time ago , i had a stalling problem cuz the coolant temp sensor wasn`t working and altering the air/fuel ratio enough to cause it to die.
dont forget to check the throttle body plates for gum along with the air by-pass valve ports, two things that will definitely cause stalling at idle speeds, other items i can think of is vaccum leak, plugs as you stated (and if there bosch platinums-toss em
Yeah, but wouldn't a bad sensor (or sensor out of range) make the check engine light come on? I guess it never hurts to try it anyway though. And no, I believe they are autolight brand (if I remember right).
I have one of those throttle body spacers that I've been tempted to toss, so that might give me the initiative to do it. Of course, I might procrastinate until it gets warmer.
Today, I watched the tach when I shifted into reverse. It got down to just under 500rpm and then came back up to ~750-850 rpm. Does anyone elses get that low? I was just wondering if mine is getting as low as everyone elses and then can't hang on at that rpm, or if part of my problem is that it is getting that low.
I have one of those throttle body spacers that I've been tempted to toss, so that might give me the initiative to do it. Of course, I might procrastinate until it gets warmer.
Today, I watched the tach when I shifted into reverse. It got down to just under 500rpm and then came back up to ~750-850 rpm. Does anyone elses get that low? I was just wondering if mine is getting as low as everyone elses and then can't hang on at that rpm, or if part of my problem is that it is getting that low.
Norm
an additive to thin out the tranny fluid, I cannot think of. I can suggest Castrol fully synthetic tranny fluid, at nearly triple the cost of regular ATF.
This allowed me to get in, start up and take off in -60 degree weather when the bronco was up in the Arctic. I don't use it anymore as I can't justify the cost for down here. I think Matteor's troubles may well be non-tranny related as others have been suggesting.
Matteor
If you do give a care about that tranny, plumb yourself a remote filter into the cooler lines and watch the shifts improve and the fluid get clean. I use this and change the external filter every month with the engine oil and filter and it keeps things clean between yearly internal filter changes.
Sixlitre
an additive to thin out the tranny fluid, I cannot think of. I can suggest Castrol fully synthetic tranny fluid, at nearly triple the cost of regular ATF.
This allowed me to get in, start up and take off in -60 degree weather when the bronco was up in the Arctic. I don't use it anymore as I can't justify the cost for down here. I think Matteor's troubles may well be non-tranny related as others have been suggesting.
Matteor
If you do give a care about that tranny, plumb yourself a remote filter into the cooler lines and watch the shifts improve and the fluid get clean. I use this and change the external filter every month with the engine oil and filter and it keeps things clean between yearly internal filter changes.
Sixlitre
G
Guest
·does the engine rough idle? ths would be a pretty easy indicator of a vacuum leak. my 1986 c6 had trouble when i first got it, and it turned out that a little vacuum actuated diaphram on the transmission had broken causing a vacuum leak, rough shifting and bad idle. it turned out that the vacuum was sucking tranny fluid back out of the tranny when it was in gear into the intake manifold (the source of the vacuum). not only did it cause my tranny fluid level to drop, also the heated fluid, as it passed through the engine and out the exhaust manifold, burned out my catalytic converters which is a bum deal if your state has smog laws like mine. i am not sure if your tranny has this diaphram, but it is worth checking, or someone else here telling you that you don't have it.
It seems to idle just fine. It will run almost as smooth as a kitten. I does dip a few rpm every few seconds, but I would hardly call that a rough idle.
But your advise isn't wasted. My dad has a 86 F-150 EFI302 and it idles horribly and has lost a lot of power. He has thought for a long time that it is a vacuum leak, but we've never tested to see. But now we have a good place to check when we do.
I was planning on changing my oil and rotating my tires this weekend, so I guess I'll start re-gapping spark plugs and clean the air filter too. Does anyone have any suggestions on an oil viscosity? I've been (and plan on) using Valvoline MaxLife 10w-40 in the winter, and I think 20w-50 in the summer (I might be off there though).
But your advise isn't wasted. My dad has a 86 F-150 EFI302 and it idles horribly and has lost a lot of power. He has thought for a long time that it is a vacuum leak, but we've never tested to see. But now we have a good place to check when we do.
I was planning on changing my oil and rotating my tires this weekend, so I guess I'll start re-gapping spark plugs and clean the air filter too. Does anyone have any suggestions on an oil viscosity? I've been (and plan on) using Valvoline MaxLife 10w-40 in the winter, and I think 20w-50 in the summer (I might be off there though).
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