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well.. i dont have an exact length on me right now.. but i used some automotive studs from the local hardware store.. i prefer studs over bolts.. and used some brass nuts also.. alittle more pricey vs the bolts.. but they hold up well.. and make putting your exhaust on easier.. since it holds the manifold up there...

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If you are allergic to lead, it is best to avoid a war zone
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
thanks for the replies! i re-read my original post and realized i forgot to include and inportant piece of information:

i am looking for the length of the bolt that bolts the manifold to the HEAD.

i thought about studs...but have always used Grade 8 bolts in the past with no problems. so i think i'll stick with what i know works. thanks again! matt

 

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/wwwthreads_images/icons/frown.gif Matthew, Matthew, Matthew,......you are stepping over some good advice here!/wwwthreads_images/icons/tongue.gif REALLY good engine builders know that for good gasket sealing and durability, a properly sized stud will be a better way to go. Our 304 has studs all the way, and get this.....talk about paranoid.....it has an oversize brass nut down first, AND a standard brass nut on top as a locker./wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif Also, you might note that SOME of the bolts are a size smaller.....5/16" I think.... and with teeny stuff like that, you'll be wantin' to STUD THAT BABY UP!/wwwthreads_images/icons/cool.gif

CJDave
A moonguy-operated Jeep Skunkworks in the "Heartland".
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
i put 3/8-16x2in. grade 8 bolts with a flat washer and a lock washer between the exhaust manifold and bolt head. all the bolts were the same size. i believe that my engine block is from the early 80's. if i find some studs or have to take the manifolds back off, i'll replace the bolts with studs. otherwise, they are staying in there.

CJDave, do you make your own studs, or buy them in the lengths you need? i found that you can get grade 5 threaded rod in 3' lengths for $6. cut them off and face them in a lathe and you could make any length you wanted...just a thought. matt

 

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I am getting ready to put a set of headers on my 360, and like the stud idea....the question I have is: What is the purpose of using brass nuts?....is it just because they don't sieze up, or what?....thanks, Ben

86 CJ7 258, weber carb, rusty but trusty!!
 

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/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif If the parts house cannot furnish the lengths and thread types that we need, we make them by threading a Gr 5 bolt and then cutting to length. It's pretty easy, and that way you get exactly the right amount of "blank" to fill the gasket holes and the holes in the part you are bolting up. Needless to say we swab them in never-seez. You'd be surprised at how easy it is to get valve covers to stop leaking when the blank part of the bolt is through the cover instead of a thread./wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gifWhen we rebuilt the GM 4X4 last summer we found the bell housing was waddled out from some previous "ace" mechanics not being careful to have the proper length bolts and keeping them tight. The bell housing was aluminum. We made four nice studs and used every bit of thread that was in the bell housing, gently tightening the studs when they bottomed out. The tranny slid over those long, NF threaded studs which has just enough blank to go in the tranny holes for perfect alignment, and then double nuts were added to lock it in place./wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif

CJDave
A moonguy-operated Jeep Skunkworks in the "Heartland".
 

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/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif Yep.......non-ferrous against ferrous helps to prevent siezing. Brass is weaker so I always use an oversize brass nut down first then a standard brass on the top as a locknut......no lockwasher, just an SAE flat washer against the part./wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif

CJDave
A moonguy-operated Jeep Skunkworks in the "Heartland".
 
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