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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
After the extensive posting on the D44 v. AMC 20 debate, I was interested in the one post that mentioned welding the axletubes into the center diff case on the AMC20, instead of relying on the factory tack welds. Has anyone tried this? Do you empty the oil out first? How thick is that metal (so I would know which welder to use and what stick or wire, etc.)? Any advice on this one would be appreciated. Do you weld in a continous bead, or start and stop to prevent excessive heat? Thanks,
Dean

Measure once, cut twice...or is that the other way around?
 

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/wwwthreads_images/icons/tongue.gif Yeah....me too! I want to weld my Model 20, and I THINK I know how to go about it, but I would like to hear a second opinion./wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif My little moonguys /wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gif/wwwthreads_images/icons/laugh.gif/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gifare installing heater hoses and can't seem to get it right. They've cut the hose twice now and it's STILL TOO SHORT!/wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif

CJDave
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I'd like to hear from the 'voice of experience', here, too. In my opinion, I wouldn't try it unless I had the axle 'loose'. And, then, I am concerned about the 'thin-ness' of the tube. It looks to be 1/8-inch wall, or less... Much thinner than a model 44. And, the carrier housing has been reported to be 'cast'. So, what rod would be used? Welding this does not seem to be such a great idea, at least not for a relatively amateur welder, like me. I HAVE had success at 'puddle'-welding in the holes, where the welding-rod only has to be secure to the tube, and it does not have to stick to the casting.
Other thoughts of 'wisdom'/experience??...

bob
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Dave, just give those moonguys /wwwthreads_images/icons/frown.gif /wwwthreads_images/icons/laugh.gif/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif/wwwthreads_images/icons/shocked.gif/wwwthreads_images/icons/tongue.gif a torch and some rod and tell them to go for it. Seriously,
there are 2 methods I've seen and heard of, 4 1" beads and 2 part circle beads. I'll ask the guy who did mine what he used, it
seemed to be an easy deal.

Brad (from the 4 Wheeling center of the universe, 4 corners USA)
 

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STOP!! before everyone goes and starts welding with 400 amps listen well.... the AMC 20 is extermely thin(as axles go) and they get warped VERY easily when you weld on them... my advice is to pay someone to weld them....that way it is their fault if they warp it...yes, i have seen them twist and it is a neccesity

 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
OK.....experience here.........
I just finished welding my tubes up as well as a few other mods. Here is what I found. First, the tubes are not all that thin. You don't want to know how hard it is to remove the spring perches. By moving mine up a little, I can do away with the shims and gain about 3/4" in lift. The tubes may not be a thick as a Dana 44, but they are stout enough. Second, the tubes are inserted all the way into the center diff. That 'tack' weld that some refered too is actually a very heavy spot weld through the outer diff tub. Basically, there is not way you are going to get the tube out. I did weld the tubes, but I used 3 1" welds evenly spaced. Its not a good idea to weld all the way around. The heat can weaken the tube in that spot. All the spot welds really do is add a little extra insurance that the tubes will not move. Important point here, the only time that much force is put on the tubes is when you are doing hard braking.....all of the twisting force is transfered from the breaks into the axle tubes. Otherwise, the axles, center diff and driveshaft are taking the load.
As for bending the tubes...well....about the only way to do that is to slam the center pumpkin on some large immoveable object (rock?)...in this case the diff and tubes are carying the weight of the jeep....

FYI....I used a MIG welder. I took pictures so as soon as I download them from my camera I'll share them with you.

John......southern CA
84CJ7,3"lift,32"BFG,4.11's,ARB,Solid Axle's
 

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/wwwthreads_images/icons/tongue.gif Nice post Dawg...lots of good stuff there. Actually, when you slam on the brakes, the torque goes from the brake assembly to the tube, then from the tube to the only thing that is holding it from spinning....the spring perches. The housing is actually "floating" during braking, but when you get back on the power, the pinion tries to climb the ring gear and rotate the piggy. Then the spot welds have to take the torque. How about this:.....you make a tubular brace which goes from perch to perch, and has an attachment to piggy's nose to pick up the torque and take it right to the spring perches. Heck, make the attachment THE spring perch./wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif just a thought./wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif

CJDave
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Actually, I'm headed in that direction. Two things I want to do, first, make a skid plate for the ole pumpkin...I don't want to scratch up its new paint, and second, integrate it into a truss system. As you pointed out, the truss needs to keep the forces off the axle tubes and on the spring perches. The easy way would be to weld up everything....but after all the problems I had trying to get my perches off, I'm going to try and find a bolt on solution. So far, all the aftermarket trusses seem to be a joke. More to follow.

John......southern CA
84CJ7,3"lift,32"BFG,4.11's,ARB,Solid Axle's
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I have welded several of these Mod 20 tubes to the case for our serious crawlers. I don't know if there is a set way to do it but we always use a MIG and put a 1" bead on the bottom and a 2 1/2" bead on the top. Seems to work great and we have never disassembled the diff before doing it but when laying the 2 1/2" bead only do half of it at a time so not to build up excessive heat.
I actually prefer to build a truss on top of the axle to help with the flexing of the tubes.
Just my 2 cents.

 
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