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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK, I have the chassis complete minus axles. I set the M20 on a set of jackstands and checked the axle freeplay. I can move the axle up and down at the hub some, does this mean the bearings are shot. I was just going to do axle seals and pinion seal but now it looks as if I may have to freshen the whole thing. Never done a diff before and there are no shops close by. Closest is probably 40 miles - Austin, maybe Temple. I know there should be some free end-play but vertical or horizontal? Any help is appreciated.

'85 CJ7 Bone Stock, in pieces..
 

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just pull the shafts and a shop R&R the axle bearings.

but if youve got 2 pc factory axles its a good time to go ahead and get 1pc axles.

if the diff gears are in good shape and the bearings arent visibly broken or full of corrosion, id try some fresh lube and run it, then youll HEAR it if you have a bad carrier or pinion bearing.



OzarkJeep

"Bare foot girls, dancing in the moon light..."
 

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Hey Rick,
If those are the original 2-piece axles I wouldn't pull them unless you are ready to drop $300 for some 1-piece axles. I spun a hub on my 2-piece axles running 32" tires. When I replaced them I used Moser's 1-piece axle kit. I also did gears and a locker at the same time. The moser kit includes bearings and you can install all new seals while you are at it. If you are just doing some preventative maintenance, I would just wait until one of the hubs spins and then redo everything like I did. Once you remove the hub from the shaft to pull the axles you increase your risk of spinning a hub significantly. Check out my website there is a write-up on the model 20 gear swap. Also, did you see my update on the engine post?

Later,
Tom

http://home.off-road.com/~tom85cj7/home.htm
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
roger Tom, I saw your post about the engines. Great to hear about your success. I already rebuilt mine though. I ran the idea past the wife last night of having a spare 360 around just in case...NOT!!! I think the bearings are shot on the axles, lots of play, in,out,up, down, front, back. They need replaced, but good on the pinion,just needs is a seal. I really wanted to reuse the factory set but....may have to spend the $$ for 1 pc. Trying to locate hub puller now. A guy two blocks away has one but I need to bring the diff to him (I have no truck/trailer..etc)..he's not letting the $180 tool out of his garage.

'85 CJ7 Bone Stock, in pieces..
 

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you can remove the hub/axle as an assembly, just remove the retaining plate behind the drum brake stuff it has 4 bolts, then you can remove the whoile shebang, might require some whacking with a sledge to free it but itll come out



OzarkJeep

"Bare foot girls, dancing in the moon light..."
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks Ozark, I'm headed out to try it now. Just got done "Reading the Friggin' manual" AGAIN. I think I understand now. I'll let you know how it turns out.

It worked, thanks all. I now have them out and cleaned for hub removal. Wasn't so bad. A couple whacks with a 3 lb and they popped right out. One side of the housing is stripprd for paint and I'll do the other tomorrow after the hubs are done. I'll clean thoroughly ands begin reassembly.

'85 CJ7 Bone Stock, in pieces..
 

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Wow old thead :eek:oo:

Yes there is no need to remove the hubs from the shaft, they can be kept togeather and removed as a unit but you will not be able to remove the bearing or seal without pulling the hub.

In theory the axle and bearing will just slid out of the housing once the bolts are removed but most need some persuasion. It is more or less impossible to hit the hub with the backing plate on. If they only need a little help, sometimes installing a brake drum backwards or old wheel with the lug nuts only on 4 turns or so and using the drum or wheel as a slide hammer sometimes works. Sometimes if the seal was bad a ring of rust can form outside of the bearing making them real hard to get out.

If the slide hammer trick does not work here is what I do, you will need 2 pieces of 3/8" all thread about 8" long. 2 nuts and 2 washers.

  1. Remove the backing plate bolts.
  2. Tap on the back of the backing plate to move it and the seal about 1" toward the hub.
  3. Insert the all thread through 2 opposite holes in the end of the housing but not through the backing plate. Install a washer and nut on the all thread between the Housing and the backing plate, with the washer on the housing side of the nut.
  4. Screw the all thread through the nut extending it through the holes in the backing plate and bearing retainer till the ends touch the hub.
  5. Tighten the nuts to push the hub outwards. If the nuts get very tight and the axle still does not move hit the inner ends of the all thread once each and tighten the nuts more just like you would do with a puller.

This procedure takes some time and hopefully yours come out easier, but I have never had an axle stand up to it.
 

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sorry to revive an old thread but the hub and axle can be removed from the housing together from what i gather where to i hit it. on the hub?
Well first let me just say thank you for SEARCHING before posting.

If you intend to wheel it just get a one piece axle kit and be done. Stronger axle shaft, better design and easyer to install.

Now if you want it to be original CJ that's fine too. But don't take it off road and expect the two piece axle to live long.

You might want to explain why you are taking it apart? And what you intend to do with the old CJ. Makes helping you a bit more simple.

:cheers:
Dale
 

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I had some trouble with this, but eventually utilized a large three jaw puller by matching three bolts to the wheel studs. Just connected the wheel studs and bolts with three old lug nuts on the backside of the puller plate after the ends were zipped off. One side torqued off and the other side was removed, then was massaged with a treated 4x4 with this puller attached. No much was left of the 4x4. I had made a axle stand / mount out of overlapping 4x4s, notched the top for the axle tubes to sit and clamped down with a metal "U" screwed into the 4x4

1st Post Atempt Here: Testing?
 

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But don't take it off road and expect the two piece axle to live long.
Mine lasted for more than thirty years. A couple of times one would start clicking on torque reversal. I tightened the nut WAY over spec and solved the problem.

1st Post Atempt Here: Testing?
Test works. Welcome to the board! Have you checked the thread "2009 Bash"?
 

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OK, I have the chassis complete minus axles. I set the M20 on a set of jackstands and checked the axle freeplay. I can move the axle up and down at the hub some, does this mean the bearings are shot. I was just going to do axle seals and pinion seal but now it looks as if I may have to freshen the whole thing. Never done a diff before and there are no shops close by. Closest is probably 40 miles - Austin, maybe Temple. I know there should be some free end-play but vertical or horizontal? Any help is appreciated.

'85 CJ7 Bone Stock, in pieces..
Sounds like bearings are worn,
Or they aren't shimmed properly.

No big deal, just need some fresh bearings and seals, and set the preload up properly.
It's all in the Manual. No big deal.
 

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Sounds like bearings are worn,
Or they aren't shimmed properly.

No big deal, just need some fresh bearings and seals, and set the preload up properly.
It's all in the Manual. No big deal.
Uh, Aaron, that was posted almost 8 years ago by someone who apparently has been banned, or at least has been active on the board for years. I don't think he's still looking for an answer. :D

On the subject of replacement 1-piece shafts for the AMC 20, keep in mind that some kits use bearings and seals that are not as readily available as stock parts. If you have to replace one it might take a special order. Also, the tubes on the CJ version are known to be weak and can be bent if overloaded well past their intended use. Probably not a concern with a mild tire size increase, unless you plan to do Dukes of Hazzard jumps. :rolleyes:
 
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