I don't know about Yukon axles, but in general, a 1 peice axle replaces the two pieces of axle shaft and separate hub with a combined unit. You have to disassemble your old axles to get the brake backing plates off, then install the brake backing plate on the new axle and slide the bearing and bearing retaining ring down the shaft. See if you can find some online install instructions. Once piece axles, if well made, and if you housing is good, are a good option.

 

Don't forget, most 1 piece axles require removal of the thrust block from the differential- adds a little more work, but usually eliminates shimming the bearings.

 

If you were to do a search on this BBS about "One Piece" axles you would find that most everyone either thinks that is a good idea or has already done that.

Well those of us that have the AMC20 for sure.

While I picked Superior there are several others that will work well and help you get past the hub spin.

I have never looked at Yukon, might be great... don't know.

Would bet the you will not look back after putting in Moser or Superior.

While I have never installed or even looked close at the "low cost" one piece axles that are now very common from the parts places.... even that might be a way out.

Here's the highest Prced you will find for these !

hehe just making fun of 4wd.com... but if you look around for that same set of axles... will be about $100 less than the name brand stuff.

But I would still buy the name brand... Superior works for me.

Dale

 

In reply to:

If you were to do a search on this BBS about "One Piece" axles you would find that most everyone either thinks that is a good idea or has already done that.

Well those of us that have the AMC20 for sure.

[/ QUOTE ]

Not me! Summers Bros. full floaters here.

 

Superior Axles for me didn't manage to kill them in 5 years even with ARB's and 35" Tyres.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/PR-BV60/index1a.html

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/PR-BV60/index1b.html

Cain

 

I have a set of Mosers in my 20, and I think it is one of the better upgrades you can do. Man they are tough, even with a V8, 33's, locker, and a lot of GO, they don't seem to mind.

 

Rather than spend the money for a 1 piece axle, look in your area for a Scout II rear axle. It'll be just a little wider, but the right bolt pattern, has 1 piece axles, and sometimes they can be had cheap. Just make sure the gear ratio is correct or it's not worth the swap.

Just an option.

 

Hey have any of you guys trussed your 20 and have a pic?

 

Any 1 piece axle has got to be an improvement over this!

 

I'm not saying you can't do it, but if your jeep is spring under axle (stock config), it is difficult to get any angle on a tension type truss beneath the axle. Also, its going to limit clearance. Maybe just consider having someone weld the tubes to the pumpkin to prevent them from twisting.

 

OOOO! mine did that to except it was on my front street, it was funny the tow truck driver said why do you want it towed and he lifts it up and the tire falls off

and he laughed.

Hey Tim all ready for the snow!! I was thinking of getting them welded( do you know anyone?) and building a truss over the top, just because i've spent money on it so i enjoy fabing stuff and it will add a couple years off life to it i'm hoping.

 

Do you know Richard L'Heureux of Pro Towing? He's an excellant fabricator and very practical about these things.

There should be some articles somewhere, or perhaps on the pirates of the rubicon site as to what method would be best? I'm thinking a big mig welder, or perhaps 7018 rod with a stick welder. I'd only use nickel rod if strictly necessary. I've had it crack on me when a guy welded up a diff for me. He told me to bring him 7018 rod, and I gave him nickel rod, because that's what the welding store recommended. It ended up cracking as it cooled.

 

King Richard by the Jeep doctor? Yeah i heard good things about him, maybe i should just shoot him a few bucks and get a good job done?

 

I considered trussing my AMC-20 and came up with a design.

I would not weld to the pumpkin. Welding to cast is an iffy thing. Even if you get a good weld, you weaken the cast part and are subject to cracking. I'd probably make a ring to go under the rear cover to weld the truss to.

 

CJ7taz, that's kind the idea i was thinking except i would leave the bottom out so i would still have it clean under there. I am thinking of a half ring and either bent tubing or square tubing bent over the top and then welded on to spring over perches and fasten with u blots. I'm sure whatever i make will help, i'm just wondering if other people have had success with there designs.
Thanks

 

In reply to:

CJ7taz, that's kind the idea i was thinking except i would leave the bottom out so i would still have it clean under there.

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If you leave the bottom out, there ain't much sense in doing it. The bottom is where the strength is. You could leave the top and the uprights out but not the bottom. The top only provides a little extra through the uprights.

 

What type of material were you thinking of using? You think if it would be that weak if it had no bottom? I was thinking of making it overkill to compensate?

 

CJ7taz, what do you think of this type?

http://www.mo-offroad.com/Axletrusses.htm

 

I think the 1 1/4 solid steel bar is the kind of thinking you need if you are going only over the top. The bottom truss is stronger because it's under tension. Another idea I had was one big mother of a bolt on square tube that ran along the backside. Shaped and fortified to clear the diff cover. They do make something like that. Can't remember the name.

 

Yeah I seen that one too, it looked like they made a new diff cover and welded the tubing to the cover, all one piece, super truss, i think...

How do you mean under tension, i don't get that?

 

Hey Tim, Would i be able to heat and bend the tubing around the diff cover or would that weaken it?

 

In reply to:

How do you mean under tension, i don't get that?

[/ QUOTE ]
Take a dollar bill and grab it between your thumbs and forefingers, one hand at each end. Now try to push your hands together without loosening your grip on the dollar. Can you do it? Of Course you can.

Grab it again (fully extended and flat). Now try to pull your hands away from one another, again without letting loose of the dollar. Can you do it? Probably not unless you used an old tired dollar bill.

Now take the dollar and roll it up. Grab it at both ends and try to push your hands together again. It should have been harder but the dollar still should have bent in the middle even if you got it rolled real tight.

Test on Tuesday to see what you learned.

 

Schools out!!

I think i get it... maybe I don't...hahah! maybe the force that bends the axle isn't what i think it is. I thought it would be good at the top and attached to the housing... hmmm thanks for the explaining it to me... I get how it works on the dollar bill but I don't think i get it on the axle...I'm going to drink some coffe and think about it...

 

Great show folks...

Now where is the original poster of the question???

dogman did you just go off and buy a ricer???

Dale

 

Yeah sorry that was my fault.

I have Superiors in mine 6 years I think and still goin.