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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Here I go, searching for the easiest, cheapest way to seriously lock a diff! How many of you guys have run the Aluminum diff route? Ya know, filling your diff with aluminum to lock it up tight...? Rockcrawler has done it, and his recipe is here. One thing he say's in there is that he "tacked the crosspins in heated it up with a hot plate". Rockcrawler, what'cha mean by that whole 'hot plate' thing? Also, how did you melt the aluminum head?

Pillard
'87 Sami, 5.5" SpOA, 33" Pro-Comps, Snorkel, 8k winch, 23" buggy-leafs, etc, etc.
 
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Tacked the crosspins so they won't fall out while pouring the aluminum. And heat (hot plate= stove/burner) the Carrier before you pour the melted aluminum into it so it wont instantly freeze but will go all the way through.
I used a Cyl head Just because I figured it was good aluminum, and it was avail and couldn't be reused as a head.
Someone here wanted $100 to do this but you pay shipping and I'll do it for much less. I've done this to a few diffs incuding non Samurai. and need to do a couple more soon.
You will need Gas torch, a Steel melting pot and a couple of axles if you try it yourself.

96 Powerstroke
86 Samurai 4"lift, Weber, P/S
86 Samurai Rockcrawler, 1.6 FI, P/S, cage, 5.12 R+P, 4.1-1 tcase, SPOA M/L,+++++

 
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Crap, I shoulda put this in the other post.

Welding heats the gears up, alot. I heard somewhere this makes them brittle, I could be wrong though.
Melted aluminum will not heat the gears up past normal operating temp, thus if the prior statement true would not weakin the gears.

Here is a Question for A metaluragist(sp??) Will the extream heat from welding the gears weakin them??

96 Powerstroke
86 Samurai 4"lift, Weber, P/S
86 Samurai Rockcrawler, 1.6 FI, P/S, cage, 5.12 R+P, 4.1-1 tcase, SPOA M/L,+++++

 
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I think anything but a locker is a recipe for disaster.

But if you must, you might want to consider using lead instead. Its a bit more viscous than Aluminum.

Keep in mind that the article you read probably wasn't using the small Samurai differentials. And you might want to start a change jar to buy another carrier when the metal filled one blows on you.

http://www.rocky-road.com
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
--I think anything but a locker is a recipe for disaster.

Of course you do, Glenn! You've got all the resources easy at hand and aren't on a shoestring budget. And how else to you expect to find new solid recipes without a little test tastin'?

Pillard
'87 Sami, 5.5" SpOA, 33" Pro-Comps, Snorkel, 8k winch, 23" buggy-leafs, etc, etc.
 

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A few of our guys here have used Lead/Babbit welding which is the same as aluminium but with the same material as the wheel weights (hence babbit). Its easy to melt (mainly composed of lead) and really cheap 50$ CAN from someone I know. They never had any problems for at least 2 years if you don't spin like crazy and run too hard on them.

But you also have to keep in mind that the quality of the job might make a difference. Get the best guy who has done it for years even if it costs a little bit more to do it. It'll be worth it.It also depends on tire sizes you have.../wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gif They tried with 33's max I think...

I'm supposed to do mine soon with that technique.../wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif

I'll tell you about it if you havn't done yours yet when I get mine done(in two weeks approx)...

Yannick
1987 stock hardtop Zuk now just arrived /wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif
1999 S10 Zr2 4.3L 31x10.5 BFG M/T's
http://lukinfomud.homestead.com/frontpage.html
 
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Actually Lead would be worse, It will wear faster and can't take the beating the aluminum will. I hammered mine this year, to the point of bending springs and cracking frame where my rear track bar attaches, the Aluminum is fine. I would not use lead, but then again I was dead set against the Aluminum before I tried it and now I swear by it.

96 Powerstroke
86 Samurai 4"lift, Weber, P/S
86 Samurai Rockcrawler, 1.6 FI, P/S, cage, 5.12 R+P, 4.1-1 tcase, SPOA M/L,+++++

 

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Extreme Heat will ruin any harden steel, try it on a old screwdriver! Heat the tip with a torch and then try to use it! It will twist the tip right off. There is a way to re-harden steel though by heating it up and have is slow cool! (2 or 3 days of stepping down the temp in a oven) Not as easy as it sounds though. Good Luck:

Rodney C
Money Pit: 1985 CJ7 302 V8, T18, D20, D30, AMC20, SOA, Shackles Reversed, 35" BFG AT's, Fiberglass Tub & Front End, And, And, And.........
 

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I would really like to see some pictures or a right up on this procedure if you ever get a chance.

Tim Martin
87' Samurai/1.6L/dual 40mm Mikunis/header/2" exhaust/MSD 6AL/5.5" SPOA/1" shackle lift/CJ-5/Sami springs/31" High-Tecs/roll cage, bumpers & pumpkin caps in progress...
 
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