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Welded diffs done right are fine. I've ran them and a lot of the people I wheel with run them. The best thing I have encountered is to weld the base of the spiders to the carrier, not the teeth. In the D44 on my J10 we added two extra spider gears for more strength.
If you don't want to replace the carrier, clean everything real good, and re-weld, or weld in new spider gears, clean real good again and fill it up.
Welded diffs are basically a spool, two tire traction, the tires will chirp on pavement, wear tires a little quicker, and are cheap, If they bust up a weld, the fragments can take out the rest of the internals.
Lockers give you two tire traction, lock/unlock on turns, cost more, if they break less ikely to take out the rest of the internals.
pbm
74 cj5,304,t18,2.46 ts d20,30f,44r,soa,MORE buggy front,35's,Rci's,5pt,full cage,air,etc.
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If you don't want to replace the carrier, clean everything real good, and re-weld, or weld in new spider gears, clean real good again and fill it up.
Welded diffs are basically a spool, two tire traction, the tires will chirp on pavement, wear tires a little quicker, and are cheap, If they bust up a weld, the fragments can take out the rest of the internals.
Lockers give you two tire traction, lock/unlock on turns, cost more, if they break less ikely to take out the rest of the internals.
pbm
74 cj5,304,t18,2.46 ts d20,30f,44r,soa,MORE buggy front,35's,Rci's,5pt,full cage,air,etc.
Support Search and Rescue.......Get Lost! /wwwthreads_images/icons/shocked.gif
