Adding a Second Battery
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not sure what your purpose for the second battery is. my 225 v6 turned over slow but had a 3xx cca battery. i changed it out to a deka 1024dt with 1100ca and 1000cca. the 24 series fit in the firewall box and turns it over great. not the best battery for vibration and longevity as the plates are close to get the cca/s but works great. i used the sideposts to make a better looking cable setup instead of cables hanging in midair. joe.
I had a situation last winter where I winched for a couple of hours and the engine stalled. It was not good. I had to go winch someone out today.
My 60 A alt is not up to the task. I have aquired a 130 A alt that i will install when it stops snowing, but probably ought to figure on adding another optima.
I don't think mounting on the fender well would work for me, it can't handle the stress of my driving.
I'm thinking of building a box that sits on the tunnel in front of the shifter, but that might interfere with the T-case stick.
Since an Optima can't leak, it might fit under the passenger seat, or under the floor ahead of the rear axle.
My 60 A alt is not up to the task. I have aquired a 130 A alt that i will install when it stops snowing, but probably ought to figure on adding another optima.
I don't think mounting on the fender well would work for me, it can't handle the stress of my driving.
I'm thinking of building a box that sits on the tunnel in front of the shifter, but that might interfere with the T-case stick.
Since an Optima can't leak, it might fit under the passenger seat, or under the floor ahead of the rear axle.
I'm involved in search and rescue and bewteen lights (6 of them), radios, gps, computer, maybe a printer, microwave and a winch a second battery isolated from the first seems like a good idea. I like the ideas suggested here for mounting in the engine compartment. I may even add a second alternator for extra charging capacity altho drag on the engine might be a concern there.
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I think I'd go with the dual optimas or any other gel type. Tomken makes a dual tray for cj's
Here's a pic of someones home made
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And another
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here's Tomkens pic off their website
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the other way is just to lay an optima or other gel on its side in your original tray, then stack another on top of it. Same size in width, just a little taller.
Here's a pic of someones home made
And another
here's Tomkens pic off their website
the other way is just to lay an optima or other gel on its side in your original tray, then stack another on top of it. Same size in width, just a little taller.
I was going to go with the side by side arangement like that. But the second one ends up right above the exhaust manifold, I was afraid the heat may kill it.
On the splash panel where I ended up putting it I cut out a section of the panel, so the battery sticks into the wheel well about 1/3 (the wheel will never come up that high,) then built the tray - solid on the bottom to keep mud and dirt from coming up, then braced the #### out of it.
It's all welded in, so far it hasn't shown any signs of weakness - no cracks or anything. But Paul you may drive yours harder.
The other thing is charging it - I didn't like any of the splitters on the market, most don't charge the battery(s) fully.
I simply tied BOTH (+) posts together using the side terminals. Then connected the regular battery cable to one of the top (+) terminals.
Then I used quick disconnect cable ends on the ground sides
(-).
Normally I leave only one ground cable connected at a time - that lets it run 100% on that battery. Every time I check the oil, I disconnect the ground being used, and connect the other one to the other battery. Then the other battery gets the excercise.
In case I ever need both for double the cranking power, I'd simply connect both grounds, then they are in parallel.
The benefit of disconnecting the ground side rather than the (+) side is the hanging cable is just ground, safe - no fires!
I don't like the idea of mounting it inside the vehicle - remember as a battery charges and discharges, Hydrogen gas is released - explosive. (Ever see a battery blow up?) And as it charges and discharges, Sulpheric acid fumes come out. You've seen how the battery tray gets corroded, not a good idea to have those fumes inside - or breathe them.
And - in a rollover a regular battery is going to spill - not fun on the back of your neck -- I speak from experience on that with a dune buggy.
I've heard quite a few negative things on the Optima - are they just rumors of facts?
On the splash panel where I ended up putting it I cut out a section of the panel, so the battery sticks into the wheel well about 1/3 (the wheel will never come up that high,) then built the tray - solid on the bottom to keep mud and dirt from coming up, then braced the #### out of it.
It's all welded in, so far it hasn't shown any signs of weakness - no cracks or anything. But Paul you may drive yours harder.
The other thing is charging it - I didn't like any of the splitters on the market, most don't charge the battery(s) fully.
I simply tied BOTH (+) posts together using the side terminals. Then connected the regular battery cable to one of the top (+) terminals.
Then I used quick disconnect cable ends on the ground sides
(-).
Normally I leave only one ground cable connected at a time - that lets it run 100% on that battery. Every time I check the oil, I disconnect the ground being used, and connect the other one to the other battery. Then the other battery gets the excercise.
In case I ever need both for double the cranking power, I'd simply connect both grounds, then they are in parallel.
The benefit of disconnecting the ground side rather than the (+) side is the hanging cable is just ground, safe - no fires!
I don't like the idea of mounting it inside the vehicle - remember as a battery charges and discharges, Hydrogen gas is released - explosive. (Ever see a battery blow up?) And as it charges and discharges, Sulpheric acid fumes come out. You've seen how the battery tray gets corroded, not a good idea to have those fumes inside - or breathe them.
And - in a rollover a regular battery is going to spill - not fun on the back of your neck -- I speak from experience on that with a dune buggy.
I've heard quite a few negative things on the Optima - are they just rumors of facts?
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I used to work on JLG manlifts, and they had a backup battery that ran an electric pump for emergency power in case the engine died when you were 120 ft in the air. There was a single diode between the 2 batteries that insured the backup battery was charged at all times, even if the main system battery was dead. Same sorta thing on a rig would give the same results as Rrich's setup, but both would get charged all the time.
In my experience, Optima batteries always work good if you can keep them charged. I've had problems with a few if they were drained, though- never could get them to stay charged once they lost it. I'd say that's happened with about 1 in 20.
Steve.
In my experience, Optima batteries always work good if you can keep them charged. I've had problems with a few if they were drained, though- never could get them to stay charged once they lost it. I'd say that's happened with about 1 in 20.
Steve.
i don't think i would be comfortable hanging that much weight from 35 year old sheet metal. My huge engine would probably prevent a frame mount under the hood, and i hate to run cables very far.
I have never heard of a gell-cell Optima leaking or out-gassing, but i suppose it could happen. thats what battery boxes are for, and they can be vented.
I coould probably run just fine on a single battery with a 130A alt, if i install a hand throttle.
I have never heard of a gell-cell Optima leaking or out-gassing, but i suppose it could happen. thats what battery boxes are for, and they can be vented.
I coould probably run just fine on a single battery with a 130A alt, if i install a hand throttle.
The problem with splitters or diodes - that's really all a spitter is, - a pair of diodes - is that diode has a voltage drop. That drop runs between .3 to .6 volts, even more, depending on the type diode. That doesn't seem like much, but for charging purposes it's a huge difference, maybe from 100% to 60% charge. A hydrometer used to check the state of charge shows it.
Soooo - in order for the battery to fully charge, the "sense" line from the regulator needs to be moved - to right on the battery (+) terminal.
But to which battery? Putting it on one keeps that battery fully charged, but doesn't let the other one charge right.
Yes, splitters work, but not as good as they should.
And as you all know, I'm a believer in simplicity.
Ah yes, that's what I heard - forgot what it was - once you drain them much they don't want to hold a charge.
Soooo - in order for the battery to fully charge, the "sense" line from the regulator needs to be moved - to right on the battery (+) terminal.
But to which battery? Putting it on one keeps that battery fully charged, but doesn't let the other one charge right.
Yes, splitters work, but not as good as they should.
And as you all know, I'm a believer in simplicity.
Ah yes, that's what I heard - forgot what it was - once you drain them much they don't want to hold a charge.
sorry guys i forgot this is "off road.com" duhh i have only ran trails at camp jeep with leaders driving awesome jeeps with everything imaginable on them. forgot about winches, never had one. sounds like lots of good suggestions i like the one about vented battery boxes and optima type batteries. i noticed while shopping sears one day that they had lots of battery boxes in the auto dept sitting around.
Cliffhanger, that looks like a very good installation, and the wiring is clean, but are you aware that those battery terminals are intended (and only good for) for temporary or emergency use? they will constantly loosen up and invite corrosion.
Your local Napa should have proper ends and a heavy crimper, if you bring them in. You could also use a crimper like these and do it at home, I prefer the price of the bottom one. (http://www.batterydoctors.com/crimping_tools.htm ) Marine cables are soldered and crimped.
Short of soldering, putting silicon dielectric grease in a crimp fitting before crimping, will ensure that there is nowhere for corrosion to enter.
Your local Napa should have proper ends and a heavy crimper, if you bring them in. You could also use a crimper like these and do it at home, I prefer the price of the bottom one. (http://www.batterydoctors.com/crimping_tools.htm ) Marine cables are soldered and crimped.
Short of soldering, putting silicon dielectric grease in a crimp fitting before crimping, will ensure that there is nowhere for corrosion to enter.
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Paul, that's not my vehicle, I just posted some pics from the net on ideas to mount dual batteries.
I do admit I have used those terminals and they are not the best, but they do work. My opinion is that all battery terminals will need maintenance at one point or another. That type a little more often.
I do admit I have used those terminals and they are not the best, but they do work. My opinion is that all battery terminals will need maintenance at one point or another. That type a little more often.
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At work we use plumbing solder and a propane torch. I used to always use the Napa heavy duty crimper, but the solder method is easier and a LOT better. All you have to do is clamp the cable end in a pair of vise grips cavity up, heat it with a torch 'til it's hot enough to keep melting solder as you feed it, and then jam the stripped cable into it (fill cavity about 2/3 full). Hold in place for 5 seconds or so, and that's it. The solder seems to bond better with the copper wire than the factory cast-lead.
Any solder will do, but flux-core is kinda messy- all the flux runs down the sides and makes it ugly, and it takes a lot more solder.
I'm not a big fan of soldered wire splices (too much effort for not much benefit) but in this case I see a HUGE difference daily.
Steve.
Any solder will do, but flux-core is kinda messy- all the flux runs down the sides and makes it ugly, and it takes a lot more solder.
I'm not a big fan of soldered wire splices (too much effort for not much benefit) but in this case I see a HUGE difference daily.
Steve.
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Oh, and if you need to be told that molten solder could hurt you, buy your cables at Autozone.
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