Any difference would be from the oil being more slippery, which would make it a percentage relationship. So if they had a 400HP V8 and got 8 more horsepower, that's 2%. On a 150 HP six would be 3 HP, which isn't significant in the real world. You can probably get that much or more by replacing a dirty air filter.

I'm always skeptical of that kind of test. Was the oil they took out fresh, with just a single dyno run on it? Did they use the same viscosity replacement oil? Did they correct both tests for temperature, barometric pressure and humidity? How many tests did they run back to back? Did they change the filter each time? Did they change anything else?

For the test to be valid they would have to change back to the original spec oil and test again. Then go back to the Royal Purple, then to the original, and so on for a dozen or so cycles, and at the end chart the results. If that protocol showed a consistent difference I'd believe it. A single test, especially from an unknown starting point, doesn't prove anything to me. And before I'd make a change on the basis of a power increase, I'd want to see the same experiment done running a hundred hours onto the oil, to see if the initial gains hold up.

All that said, for years tests have shown a slight power increase with synthetic oils, so I wouldn't call them charlatans, but I won't hang my hat on 2% until I see scientific test results. What you describe is an anecdote, nothing more.

 

I'd like to see them run that 'Test' (and I use the term loosely) in reverse.

Heat soak that basically cold engine (water temp is no indicator if the temp of internal components) with the Barney piss then try a blast with the conventional oil...

Some good oil too, not that recycled discount store crap they showed...

I'm all for synthetic oils, the reduce friction, reduce fouling, remain useful longer and resist moisture and acids long, not to mention keep more particulate matter in suspension...
But the crap advertisement they showed on the boob tube could have been nothing more than pistons that hadn't cooled completely down or the test fuel warming up a few degrees...
WWAAAAAAYYYYYYYY too many variables to make claims about one single pass on the dyno....

Give me an average of 10 passes on each oil, switch back and forth a couple of times with 10 passes each time you switch, then we'll talk about some results!

 

Aw, come on guys. If it's on TV, or on the internet, or written down, it has to be true!



Doesn't it?

 

Aw, come on guys. If it's on TV, or on the internet, or written down, it has to be true!

Well, yeah. There is that.

 

Additional HP, IMHO, is just icing on the cake. One of the reasons you have oil in the engine is to prevent wear. The best way to do that is to use an accumulator. Dump oil on initial start, pressurize the engine, lube and float parts before the parts start to move via the starter motor. IMHO, it's better to keep the HP you have than try to develop a few percent more.

 

Yup, AccuSump.
Been using them and Boda accumulators for turbos for years.
Excellent products.
Almost as good as having a dry sump oil system!

AccuSump,
Accusump by Canton Racing Products

Accusump oil pressure accumulators

I haven't seen a Boda accumulator advertised in a while, wonder if they are still in business?
---------------

No point in synthetic oils in carbureted engines anyway.
Fuel contamination and soot will limit any oil life to the limits of the 3 month/3,000 oil change interval with a carb.

 

No point in synthetic oils in carbureted engines anyway.
Fuel contamination and soot will limit any oil life to the limits of the 3 month/3,000 oil change interval with a carb.

A VERY accurate statement Aaron.....

BTW....I would be interested to see who the 'sponsored' the program that day.......

 

Why would it makea difference whether it has a carb or injectors ?

 

Carbs are not as accurate as fuel injection and there is a lot of gas that is wasted. On a cold engine extra gas can just wash down the cylinder walls and contaminate the oil quickly. Then there is the distribution to each cylinder and in order to get the end cylinders to run properly you have to richen up the center ones.

 

I agree that it would have been nice to see them run several tests before they gave results. But they did use O'Reliys brand oil and Fram filter (pre filled) ran it to temp (both water adn oil) then ran it to 2somthing k on the dino. Then for the purple drained the oil new prefilled fram filter and RP. again ran it up to temp both oil and water then ran it to the same rpm as for the O'Reliys.
I like the thought on the %gain never thought about looking at the fact that a 2% gain in a 300hp motor is much more than a 2% gain in a 100hp motor.