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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hay guys before I start asking more questions I want to say thanks for your help. I don't like it when a new guy comes to a message board and just asks questions. Now it seems like I'm that annoying guy. Well here are a few more questions.

I have power doorlocks but the solenoids on both doors are broken away from the door frame. So I can press the lock/unlock buttons and the solenoids move but it doesn't move the lock. I took apart the passenger door and found where the solenoid is supost to connect to the door but the rivet? that is suppost to hold it in has broken and I don't see how I can fix it. Here are some pictures. The second one is me holding the solenoid up to the hole so you can kind of see where it broke.




I replaced the bulbs in my domelight/maplights and now the domelight works but both maplights wont work. I found the circuit in the haynes book. As far as I can tell the same wires power the domelight and the map lights. So I don't understand how one could work and the other two not work. Here is the picture.



Last one (for now). My A/C fan only turns on with the switch on "HI". The other three settings ("LO" and the two in between) have no effect at all. Somebody sujested I check the "blower resister" but I haven't gotten around to it yet. Any other ideas?



Thanks agian for your help guys. I hope some day I can be a full member (giving and taking) instead of just using your knoledge.
 

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you can just use a bolt to replace the rivet on the door acuators, thats what i did. make sure to use loctite or a lockwasher or something to keep it from vibrating off, both mine are dangling now because i didnt secure the nut. sounds like the resistor pack is to blame for the blower problem... or the wiring going to it maybe.
 

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On the dome light, remove the driver's shoulder belt reel cover from the L rear footwell and find the wiring harness coming from the driver's threshhold. Trace that harness to the rear and under the reel to where it's crammed into a hole in the sheet metal. CAREFULLY pull the large connector out & see how badly it's corroded. Also, trace the ground wire to the screw beside the reel & make sure it hasn't corroded away.

Yeah: what muddy said on the other 2...
On the solenoids, the hardest part will be putting them BACK into their little U-shaped brackets.
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
In reply to:

sounds like the resistor pack is to blame for the blower problem... or the wiring going to it maybe.
I just tried to remove the resistor pack. I can not get the wireing harness off the pack. I removed the pack from the blower housing. But the wire plug it really on the resistor pack. What can I use to lubricate the wireing connector? WD40?

The resister pack is quite rusty inside. There are three coils all rusty and a diode? How can I check if the pack is bad? Just replace with a new one and see if it fixes anything?

In reply to:

On the solenoids, the hardest part will be putting them BACK into their little U-shaped brackets...

you can just use a bolt to replace the rivet on the door acuators, thats what i did.
Let me explane exactly what is wrong. My solenoids are still in the U-shaped brackets. But my brackets are not connected to the door. When I line up the bracket with the door I can see where the rivet is still in the bracket but the "head" of the rivet has broken off. I don't know how I can remove the old rivet to replace it with a screw/bolt.

Thanks for the ideas guys. I deffently need to know what to do about that blower resistor pack. It's just dangeling in the engine bay right now.
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
In reply to:

Trace that harness to the rear and under the reel to where it's crammed into a hole in the sheet metal. CAREFULLY pull the large connector out & see how badly it's corroded. Also, trace the ground wire to the screw beside the reel & make sure it hasn't corroded away.
Steve I just did what you said. All my wires seem to be in perfect condition. The ground connection is a little rusty but I'm sure it is still electrially sound. Can you think of any other reason why my map lights wouldn't work?

Actually I'm looking at my haynes book agian (pg.12-49 E-33) And I guess I was wrong about the domelight and maplights beign on the same circuit. Now it looks to me like the LtGrn/Yel wire is always hot. The Blk/Pink wire is hot when a door is open. And the Bk/LtBlu wire is trigered by the dash control.

Now I'm sure my cargo light use to come on when I turned the dash light dial all the way up but it doesn't anymore (Blk/LtBlu wire?). I can turn it on with the button though (using the LtGrn/Yel wire?). But my map lights don't turn on using the LtGrn/Yel wire?

I'll have to barrow a multimeter from work agian and go over all these wires.
 

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Re: powerlocks

In reply to:

I don't know how I can remove the old rivet to replace it with a screw/bolt
Remove the door panel and unhook the plastic clip at the top of the lock motor's operating rod where it connects to the door catch mechanism. The clip snaps off to the side, then the rod can be pulled out. Then work the lock motor out of the door with the wiring still attached, so you can look at it. You'll see it has 2 metal pegs, each in a rubber bushing pressed into a notch on a U-shaped bracket, which USED TO BE riveted to the door. Spray some silicone lubricant on the rubber and remove the bracket. Bolt it back to the door with a 1/4-20x1/2 panhead phillips screw and a nylock nut (on the outside), and press the lock motor (with both grommets) back onto the bracket; then reconnect the operating rod.

Read and <a target="_blank" href=http://tellico.off-road.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=offroadfordbroncolate&Number=632964&page=&view=&sb=&o=&vc=1>this one, too.

Here's what the clips look like, but this ISN'T a door catch, so don't expect to see this arrangement.


If you have some REALLY old clips, they may look like this, but you just have to hold the small leg out of the way while withdrawing the rod.
 

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Re: domelight

I thought about them being on different circuits, but I forgot to put that in my previous post.
I guess it wouldn't have helped anyway.


Check the LG/Y wire and the Bk/LB at the reel connector for power. There are probably 2 or 3 connectors jammed up behind the reel, so make sure they're ALL OK. One goes to the rear dome/CHMSL and the other goes to the main dome/map. If you can't find a problem there, drop the dome/map light (3 screws inside the center cover) and test each bulb and each wire.
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Re: powerlocks

In reply to:

unhook the plastic clip at the top of the lock motor's operating rod where it connects to the door catch mechanism. The clip snaps off to the side, then the rod can be pulled out. Then work the lock motor out of the door with the wiring still attached, so you can look at it.
Okay after some trouble I figured out how the rod was connected. And I pulled the lock motor out. I took it off the U-bracket. The metal part of the bracket seems to already been "fixed" before. (wish I had a camera so I could show you)

I'll try drilling out the "fixed" rivet tomarrow.

Do you have any ideas how I can remove the blower resister pack from the wireing harness?
 

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Re: A/C

In reply to:

remove the blower resister pack from the wireing harness?
Try working each wiring harness terminal around inside the connector to loosen them slightly. Spray some Liquid Wrench on them, too. Then use a small flat-blade screwdriver between the connector and the board beside each terminal and pry each one out just a few millimeters at a time. Watch the resistor side of the board to make sure you're not ripping those terminals thru the board. You might try holding them on the backside with some needle-noses or diagonal cutters. It sounds like it overheated and soldered some of terminals together, so it may take a LOT more effort (like cutting wires & replacing the connector & resistors
), but the thing that looks like a diode is actually a thermal fuse and should have prevented that.
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Re: powerlocks

In reply to:

Bolt it back to the door with a 1/4-20x1/2 panhead phillips screw and a nylock nut (on the outside),
I went to home depot after work last night and picked up some hardware for the lock motors. It was dark by the time I got back so I'll try installing them tonight.
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Re: powerlocks

The bolts for the power lock motors worked perfectly. Now I don't have to lean all the way over to lock/unlock the passenger side door (as if I ever locked it).
 
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