BrownBag, I hate to burst your bubble, but MY '94 2wd 5-speed 2.3L 4cyl Ford Ranger XLT longbed has a 7.5" ford rear end. I konw, because my '97 Ford F-150 2wd has the 8.8 The 7.5 is also a c-clip axle, and they are based on the same design, just the 7.5 is scaled down in all respects. Which shop manual are you using?
As to adding the locking hubs, I'd add them AND modify the axle disconect to pull the disconnect sleve over both halves and lock it there (I know several people who've done this to D30 axles). This does several things. First it saves on wear to your spider gears, differential bearings, and other calamites. Also, when in 2wd on the streets, your constantly spinning both front u-joints, the driveshafts, , espically with a locker or limited slip, and are turning components in both the front diff and t-case. I see that as giving poorer gas mileage, chewing parts that don't need to be chewed, and how many times have you gone on a fourwheeling trip where nobody had locking hubs they needed to lock at trailhead? 2wd low is nice, but would be a pain to get the way I use my hubs (if I had a yj, but I twinstick my Cj anyway). Then, you aren't left wondering if the disconect has engadged or not, which is a problem for my friends when brush pulls the connections off the stolenoid.
IMHO :: if you want to run a locker / limited slip in the front of a yj/tj/any veh without locking hubs, put in locking hubs, 'fix' the disconects and then you can run the locker.
Florida Mud CJ-5
'77 RB304, t-150 D20 4" 35" swampers