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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I need to know which color vacuum line is going from the vacuum canister located underneath the battery box to the front axle vacuum disconnect. My 89 YJ has three different color vacuum lines going to the front axle vacuum disconnect--green, yellow, and blue (I think). I just put in a 350 V8 and at times don't have enough vacuum to engage the front axle (at idle or going down a hill it disengages). I simply ran the vacuum from my intake to the axle. I noticed the stock vacuum canister the other day. This will solve my problems but I don't remember which line goes to the canister. So if you have an 89 YJ please look and help me out. Thanks!!

 
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
What you are describing is a common problem with older wranglers and the vaccumm disconnect on the front axle. It probably has anough vaccumm at the source, but there is a vaccumm leak somewhere. It's prone to problems, so I replaced mine with a cable disconnect system. I built my own, but BDS sells them for $225.

90 YJ "Mangler" 6" of lift, 33's, Lock Right in the rear
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
How did you make your own?
Is it expensive to make your own and how hard is it?

I would rather make my own than spend $225.



 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Unfortunately, the film that was in that camera got exposed prematurely when the battery died on the camera. For some DUMB-ASS reason, they decided to have the access to the battery BEHIND the film, and the film is self loading. No battery = film will not wind back into the canister. I can explain the process, though.

It was really cheap - altogether I have about $20-30 invested in it. The cable is a twist-lock cable for throttles. It has a t-handle and when you pull it, turn it a half turn to lock it in.

Parts to buy:
Twist Lock Cable (Cable is approx. 6 foot long longer may be necessary once my SOA is done - don't have enough flex with the Pro Comp to worry about it)
1 pair of cable stays
Angle iron to mount t-handle to dash


I've found it pretty easy to drill through the whole bulb while it's together. Drill the whole just larger then the cable somewhat close to the center of the bulb. Make sure you drill STRAIGHT. Take the disconnect off and take the bulb thingie apart. You have to pry the lip apart to get the two halfs separated. Once you do, tear the rubber seal that goes between the halfs on the baffle off.

Mount the cable under the dash using some angle iron. I used some that I had laying around. It's surdy as hell - over built, but who cares. Route the cable through the firewall and down the engine compartment to the center of the axle and clamp down the casing with a large muffler clamp. Don't tighten too tight. Here's where it gets tough... The inner cable needs to go in one half of the bulb, through a cable stay, through the divider baffle, to another cable stay and out the other hole in the other side of the bulb. Hardest part is getting the cable stays on the cable. Use some needle nose pliers to hold them in place. You will need to adjust the cable stays so that it opens and closes properly. Clamp the halfs of the bulb back together. This is far from water proof, and I'm working on a way to make it more water tight. I havent done any mud running since installing it, so I don't know if it will be an issue, but I assume it will be eventually.

Hope that helps. I'll see if I can get some pics of the finished product.



90 YJ "Mangler" 6" of lift, 33's, Lock Right in the rear
 
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