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\'85 258 Plastic Valve Cover Gasket Replace

I finally broke down and replaced the gasket. Yes I used the Felpro VS50244R gasket kit. I say kit because it also had the rubber mini-donut seals for the two verticle studs in the middle of the cover. This part number is supposedly the best gasket out there for this engine. It looks like a closed cell foam type. Engine had about 80K miles. I moved everything out of the way. Unbolted everything. Pulled the cover off. PO, or someone just used rtv. I guess that might be OK in some circles. The inside of the cover was just caked with grunge. So was the head. Paid $2.79 a gallon for 10 gallons of kerosene, my solvent of choice. At this price maybe I need to switch favorite solvents. One empty 5 gallon bucket, a couple of wire brushes, a very nice shade tree and I was on my way. Instructions said to make sure oil drain back holes were open....good idea. Started looking for them....there were none. The oil drains back throught the push rod holes. Well there was a bunch of gunk in there. It was built up in between each cylinder valve pair to the point that the oil was damning up, not draining to the push rod holes, on the intake/exhaust port side. The side where it was leaking. Shop vac., a smaller diameter hose to get into the smaller areas, and dental picks and I was cleaning away. After the manual cleaning I used brake cleaner and a wire brush on the head's valve cover mating surface for a perfectly clean area. Jeep was also parked unde same shade tree. Ya some of the crap went down into the pan. What I saw looked like what I saw in mid eighties engines that had been run on oil made from Pennsylvania high parafin crude oil. So I am rolling the dice that none of that crap goes someplace and does something bad. Engine sounded good after I was done. I'll run it for awhile to make sure that the stuff either gets caught in the filter or stays in pan. Then I will do oil/filter change. I installed the cover with a thin film of UltraBlack Permatex to hold the gasket in place. I think I saw what some of the valve cover manufacturers say that a couple of hole might need tapped for there covers to seal right. There were a couple of indexing tits on the plastic cover on the intake/exhaust port side. The holes in the head appeared to be untapped. The first and last head bolts on the outside of the valve cover did not have stud extensions to allow the use of the valve cover hold down cupped washer nuts. The others did have the studs but not all of them had these washer/nuts. I bought a couple more and used stainless steel nylon insert lock nuts as jamb nuts. Well I'll keep you all informed as this long term test progresses. BTW the inside of the cover had some numbers molded into it. One of these was: "REV.REL". I think this cover must have went through several revisions to get it "right". Hehehehe.
 
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