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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello Dodge forum....i got a problem im trying to figure out why an 84 dodge full size pick up,318 bored 30 over,hp comp cam,webber carb,edlebrock performer intake,k&n filtration,
msd2coil,dies when warm.runs fine cold when engine heats up the engine dies like it runs out of gas or turned off the key and wont crank back up 30 min to an hour afterward
have replaced just about everything i can think of to solve the problem.will you guys throw some ideas out for me and lets see what we can come up with fix it ....thanks joe
 
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Do you have a vacuum leak? Pinch the line that goes to the vacuum tree by the thermostat on the intake manifold. I had the same problem when I switch to a 4 bbl. The vacuum line are cheap plastic and break. I replaced all vacuum lines with rubber and rerouted some.My problem was when it warm the charcaol cansiter purge would suck in air killing the motor. You can plug all the vacuum lines coming off the carb and it should run when warmed. Than start pluging in each line one at a time till truck dies than you have the bad line.
Hope this helps.
JOe
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I had a Dodge ten years older than yours and i had that problem too. It was vapor lock. The fuel lines were ran in a bad spot and got really hot. After I rerouted the fuel lines it never happenned again. This may not be your problem and you may have already tried this; but if not check it out man!!!!!!!
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
i have replaced some of the vaccum lines didnt seem to help but i will go a step further with that.i wanna think its electircal but may be i need to replace all the vaccum hoses to make sure..thanks for the reply
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
that was my first choice was vapor lock i have put on a new fuel pump and rerouted and replaced all of the fuel lines..thanks for the reply....joe
 

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Premium Member
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1,762 Posts
I don't know if it relates but on my 79 van with the 318 it died a while after it was running and just quit, I had earlier switched my electronic ignition with another one which had caused it. One other time it was a bad balust resister.
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
i have installed a new resistor didnt help ,but i havent tried testing the ignition,did install a new distributor though i think its goin to be a wire not connected correctly,im not the first one to try and figure it out another guy kept the truck for three months and didnt do anything to help the problem hopefully i will get it figured out sooner than that...lol..thanks for the reply
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
vapor lock will be easy to spot. if, after it dies, there no gas squirt after pumping the gas, then it could be vapor lock. if you get a squirt, then that means you have gas going to the carb and therefore no vapor lock.

try removing the gas cap also. it might not be venting the tank and you might just not be pumping gas into the carb.

try it and write back. we can go from there. if you have gas at the carb, it could be a couple of things
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
thanks for the reply vapor lock was my first choice for checking what i thought the problem was even though everything was ok in relavence to vapor lock i went ahaed and installed new fuel pump and new fuel lines since they had been on the engine since it was rebuilt.please read previous posts to the question you will see what has been offered already...thanks..joe
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I did read read all the previous posts but vapor lock wont necessarily be cured by replacing the fuel pump and fuel lines.

What you need to find out is whether the problem is gas related or electrical. I still dont see any posts stating that there is gas in the carb when its warm so that needs to be confirmed either yes or no. If there is gas in the carb, it might be a lean or rich issue or it may be electrical.

gotta take it one step a a time

you would also want to check for spark when it wont start. check for spark at the end of a plug wire. if its there check all of them to make sure you have spark on all the wires. if there is no spark there, check for spark coming out the coil wire. if no spark there, make sure you have voltage on the + side of the coil with a voltameter. if you do the coil might be bad or the ignition box (ecu) or the wiring to or from it.

it may also be the inductive pickup in the distributor. check the gap with a non magnetic feeler gauge. should be .007 i think
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
ok the ansewer to the gas in carb and is it pumping to the carb and pumping gas in the carb is yes we can rule out vapor lock the problem is going to be electrical.it doesnt hit/spark normal when it has its temper tantrum msd perf2 coil is new,distributor and related parts are all new as well.both ballust resistor and ecu box is new mopar parts. the guy that worked on this problem before me replaced most all of the electrical components is possible he didnt hook something up correctly never the less it hasnt fixed the problem i am in the process of tracing wires now to check that out.i do not believe it is a gas related problem any longer..thanks for the reply..
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
ok i finally figured it out (i think) that brand new mopar part on the firewall just to the left of the resistor was bad,because i took one off a junk truck and put it on just as a test and it has stopped the problem been running it for a few days everywhere and hasnt died not once without turning off the engine.so i wanna thank all you guys very much for your help and replies. joe
 
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