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77 350 firing order help needed

1.4K views 12 replies 1 participant last post by  **DONOTDELETE**  
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#1 ·
I have had an idle stumble for a while now and I thought that having the plug wires hooked up wrong would really cause it to run poorly, when I was playing around today I switched two wires and the engine ran the same. I need to know where 1 is on distributor cap I have it first to left of wire box (small box bat and tach hook to on hei coil) I know this hard to explain so I atached a pict with my number labled, I have firing order on manifold.I just want to double check and dont want to go through the trouble of finding TDC. Thanks.

 

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#2 ·
It looks to me like the dist may be rotated around pretty far adding to or causing the problem. The best thing to do is bring the #1 up to top dead and look at the rotor to make sure that it is pointing to the #1 wire. Then follow the firing order on the manifold and then check the timing with a light. Good luck.

 
#4 ·
The firing order should be stamped on the intake, if it is stock. I am pretty sure you have #1 on the Dist. in the right place.

Soon to have a truck, in about 2.5 months when I get the money.
 
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#5 ·
The easiest way to find top dead center is to take out the no. 1 plug and have someone rotate the engine with a socket and breaker bar or something like that. Put your thumb over the spark plug hole and when no. 1 comes up on the compression stroke you will feel pressure pushing against your thumb. After you feel the pressure get a light and look into the plug hole. You will see the piston coming up. It will stop upward motion when it is at top dead center. If it starts moving back down you went too far. I cant remember which terminal on the distributor is no. 1 but I will try and go look at my truck or my manual (which is down at the building too. LOL) and get back to you on that.

 
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#7 ·
You're arrow is pointing at no. 2 the very next terminal going clockwise is no. 1 I checked my book and my truck. As for your truck sucking money I know the feeling. Mine does the same thing but I could write a whole other post about that /wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif
 
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#11 ·
Well I couldn't get to start with #1 were you said. I tried to find TDC but I dont have a timing mark and when it would blow out of #1 the cylinder still would come up after. I put number one wire as seen in first post. I got it running and timed it by ear. I did find that the vac line going to the dist advance didn't have any vac going to it. I swapped the line to another port on carb and it doesn't stall anymore after tromping on it. I did notice a "death" bearing type noise coming from the under side. It's faint but I think this motor is a little more tired than the previous owner led on. That could be my next string of posts. But how do you pull a motor from a lifted truck? Take the front wheels off and let it down? or just pull the radiator etc. out.

 
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#13 ·
I posted this a few weeks back. Here are the specs.

Well here is the trail tested final version of the Truck. back from a week long excursion on Wind rock mountain in TN. all performed well including 11 hours of interstate travel on the 39.5's. Lots of little problems I'll post those later. Here's the stats for those not following the 1 year long build. 1977 K10 350 600cfm no mods on motor, Th350 rebuilt with heavy duty tow package, Np203(we wont go there) Stock shaft with 3" added in and step up u-joint. Boyce 14 bolt ff with 4.56 and detroit, Front D60 open no sway bar, Pro comp 6" lift with rear blocks, Drop Pro comp steering link and Superlift steering block, Pro comp 9000 shocks in front none in rear yet. 12 deg shim on d-60 with modified shaft(Ground out bump stops in Cv) Super Swaper TSL 39.5/15/16.5's Brush gaurd roof rack etc.... Phewww.