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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I think I broke my toy again..
I was playing on some hills and heard a loud bang in my rear end. I got it out to a parking lot, but it would only go foward in 1st gear and reverse. It wouldn't go foward when in 2nd, or drive.
When I got it home (trailer), I took off the rear diff cover and saw that the welded spider gears had some missing welds and broken teeth.
I figured that that was my problem. Too much bind in the rear to allow it to shift..
Well not now, I installed a spool and tried to drive it, and same problem. Fluid is ok and the kickdown is still adjusted properly. I even put it in drive and went to the front and added pressure to the kickdown cable, but still no go.I do hear a whine when in drive and it wants to pull, but no pull. Even with throttle it isn't pulling.
here is what it is...401/727/d300.
Anyone??
Thanks, Ricky...seeya...
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
No kidding.. I need an answer, so I can tell him how much stronger my "old" T-18 was....
Not in a good mood now.

seeya...
 

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I almost feel bad now. Almost.
I'd love to know what hell you did to it. I almost wonder if the shock didnt break or hurt the pump somehow. Maybe Leve will chime in on this one. He helped me out on mine, when mine did something stupid.

But welded spiders. Come on now.
Welding spiders is just asking for something to happen.
 

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Humor me for a moment.

You're saying that in LOW (1st) you have forward movement.

..but not in drive...

(if I recall the band/clutch applications correctly - probably not)
Okay ...rear clutch is fine ..and the LOW and reverse band is fine.

(scratching head trying to remember what is applied for Drive 1st as opposed to LOW 1st (low and reverse band). I thought the TF used the rear clutch in all forward gears. The only difference was whether you used the low and reverse band for LOW or the overrunning clutch for 1st-Drive ...the kickdown band was always 2nd in either Drive 2nd or manual 2nd.

Pardon me while I consult the FSM (simulated pause)

The REAR CLUTCH IS USED FOR ALL FORWARD GEARS

Drive 1st : Overrunning clutch
2nd: Kickdown band (front band)
3rd: Front clutch

LOW : REAR BAND (low and reverse) and overrunning clutch (I'm not sure why this is in use here).

Drive 2nd (gear selector in 2 position)

1st and second are the same as if you selected DRIVE


According to this ..........you've lost your overrunning clutch.

Have you tried to drive in LOW until you reach about 20 mph and then shift into D or 2nd??? I'll bet this will work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
In reply to:

According to this ..........you've lost your overrunning clutch.

Have you tried to drive in LOW until you reach about 20 mph and then shift into D or 2nd??? I'll bet this will work.

[/ QUOTE ]

I will try this today.
Thanks, Ricky...seeya...
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Update..
The tranny is out and sitting in my garage. I have learned it is probably something called a "sprag". It is common for them to give way. The upgrade is a "bolt in sprag". This is supposedly a good upgrade anyway.
Once it is at the shop, I will post the actual problem, so we can make a tech for this issue..
Thanks for the help..And encouragement from paltalk last night..
Ricky...seeya...
 

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Hey glad we could help.


By the way i lost about umm 2 seconds of sleep last night.


To make you feel better, i found out today that it is my front tranny seal that is leaking, so looks like my trans is coming out this week also.
 

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yep the sprag is what the overrunning or one way clutch pushes against basically, and it is one of the few weaknesses of the tf727.

there are aftermarket upgrades I think, also it might have just came un-pinned from the cases, it may be possible to re stake it into p[laceif the parts themselves arent fragmented.

 

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this may be a timely post for me.
My front seal is belching also and I was planning on repalcing it next week when I do the V8 swap. Looks like the tranny will be comming out and I will take care of this then.

How hard is it to replace this sprag?
 

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Yup, Sprag. Check the case carefully in the rear, becuse when you overload the sprag and it 'pops', half the time the 'rollers' in the sprag just push out, break the outer ring of the sprag AND break the case around it. This is how ALL the Torqueflites work and it is a limitation. In a hi torque application, (climbing hills, launch with a drag car, etc.) you should always be in 'manual low' or first gear on the indicator. This applies the band, which is anchored much better than the sprag. It also takes some, but not all, the load off the sprag as well.

Another little known fact. Don't start, or let idle, a vehicle with a TF trans, in Park. TF's don't have an oiling cycle in park and you can burn up a trans just letting it idle. Neutral has the oiling cycle so it is the prefered 'gear' to be in.

727's are extremely strong trannies, but when they blow up, they are pretty spectacular. When I put actual horsepower in my Jeep, it will have a 727 with an SFI certified scattershield mounted to the top of the case. Learn to work within the limitations of these 'slushboxes' and you will be rewarded with years and miles of trouble free service.
 

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This is a roller clutch ..the contemporary nomenclature must have evolved this into "the sprag". The only trans with a "sprag" clutch was the TH400. All the others have roller clutches. The sprag has rounded bow ties instead of rollers (or sorta dog bones) ...allegedly stronger then the roller.
 

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Mike, don't want to doubt you, but, can anyone else verify this???????? I've never heard this and my tf999 spends alot of time sitting in park running...

In reply to:

Another little known fact. Don't start, or let idle, a vehicle with a TF trans, in Park. TF's don't have an oiling cycle in park and you can burn up a trans just letting it idle. Neutral has the oiling cycle so it is the prefered 'gear' to be in.

[/ QUOTE ]
 

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In reply to:

Mike, don't want to doubt you, but, can anyone else verify this???????? I've never heard this and my tf999 spends alot of time sitting in park running...

[/ QUOTE ]1. This is true.
2. The TransGo kit will solve the problem,
3. As will modification of the valve body.
 
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