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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I fineally had a chance to go offroad in my 97, and it did quite well although the rear bumper wishes I had a lift. I found out pretty quick that it did much better than my 3/4 ton. I then remembered a concern that I have since forgotten (because it is now a solid axle project truck). One of the front tires wasn't throwing much (if any) mud, the passenger tire didn't "spin out" when in mud and I goosed it but the driver's side did, and the truck strugled to get through some fairly shallow mud (about 4"). Oh yeah the 4x4 indicator light wasn't on either. While this isn't a problem for me anymore, I wonder if it is possible that something was broken and when I enguaged the X-case I was really in 3WD. The reason I ask is that I think I found a buyer for the front IFS suspension and diff (he wants to put it on his 1/2 ton) and I don't want to rip him off.

Thanks for any info,
REBEL

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G

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Really a 4x4 truck is only two wheel drive unless you have a locker. You can put a locker in the front and both front wheels will spin, but it puts alot more stress on the axle and will affect street driving unless you have lock out hubs. "open" diffs will only power the wheel with out traction. Get lock out hubs before putting a locker up front. I am considering one my self. May just weld the spider gears and leave one hub unlocked until I get into some hard core stuff then lock the other hub. Lots of options.

 

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Normally tthe tire with the least traction will spin out cause its an open dif.

If your rear was locked then it would be 3wheel drive, mines only 2 when the T-CASE IS engaged and the front is locked in, I dont have arear locker.

It never fails, when Im turning wrenches on my truck and something can go wrong, it usaully does
 

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looks like frank beat me to it

It never fails, when Im turning wrenches on my truck and something can go wrong, it usaully does
 

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we both replied at 5:17, thats kinda crazy

It never fails, when Im turning wrenches on my truck and something can go wrong, it usaully does
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Well since we are on the subject, where can I find an affordable ARB air locker for my 10 bolt rear? Would it be best to have the ARB automaticly come on when the t-case is shifted to 4hi and 4lo (via the 12v thermal accuator wire to a relay that turns on the air pump and activates the air solenoid) or would it be best to use the supplied manual switches.

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G

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No, you wan the ARB to come on seperately. That way you can have 2-locked when you want to pull a boat out or something, 4-unlocked for icy roads, and then 4-locked when you need it. ARB is definately the way to go with a 10-bolt since an automatic locker will tear up your drive-train on asphalt and you won't notice a limited slip as much as you would like.

Nich Kenny
'89 K1500 350/700r4
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Well how does $760 sound for a partially installed ARB? He said he would install everything in the diff and run the air hose to the frame, after that it's my problem. I would then need to buy a $200 air pump.

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Sounds pretty good considering I see them for about $650 just for the locker, no installation at all.

1992 Blazer Sport, 350 TBI, 4L60, 3" Flowmaster, K&N, Rancho 2.5" lift, 285/75R16 AT's/wwwthreads_images/icons/laugh.gif
 
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