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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Has anyone run a new 4.3 vortec engine in there Sammys?? I'm talking like a 96-2000 ?? I tried to do it without a body lift...no way...not enough clearance for the stock manifolds without frame mods, which I can do, but don't want too. Just curious what y-all thimk...john
 

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Hey! Been a while
So, the swap is giving you some trouble, eh? LOL Don't sweat it. First thing, do what ever is necessary to stay away from a body lift. My personal opinion but I think they're ugly as sin. IMO of course. The issue with the manifolds can be overcome but you'll likely need to build your own headers. Now, before anyone freaks out, it's not that bad. The flanges can be made easily from 3/8" or even 1/2" if you wanted to, and just use an individual flange piece for each port. So that would give you 6 pieces of flange. Get some cheap (or expensive SS mandrel bent tube) MB aluminized tube (ie. from Summit or JB Whitney) and build them to go up and OVER the valve covers. Start with 1.5" primaries and go into a 2" secondary. To do it the easy way, the forward most primary can go into the 2" secondary right after it clears the valve cover and starts its way back. Then have the other 2 primaries enter the 2" secondary right up top too. Not the greatest for flow but hey, better than stock!

OR do it the easiest way and go to a race or performance exhaust place and I'm sure they'll make some for you. Won't be cheap but NO body lift.

Just this past weekend I "almost" made the decision to do a 3/4" or 1" BL. Believe me, I wasn't happy but made a few more body mods and it doesn't look like I'll need it after all. Sweet!

Cheers,
Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the reply. Are you running a 4.3 as well?? Yeah I didn't want to run a BL either. As far as the headers are concerned, I thought about making some too, which wouldn't be a problem...just wanted to run what I got to be cheaper. An older TBI engine would of been a hell of a lot easier, let me tell you. This damn thing has like 5 O2 sensors, and a whole lot of crap. One good thing is has a A/C compressor, P/S pump, and a 100Amp alternator already. (out of an S-10 4x4). Anyway the exhaust manifolds have metal smog tubes, with flanges like in my way, everywhere. The driver-side tube is in the way of my steering shaft. And ports exit at an angle to the rear of the block, right over the Sammy frame. I pulled the body of the frame to make this eaiser. I mounted the radiator as far forward as possible when the body was on. Then yanked the body, and remounted the radiator to guide me. Actually some center dump headers would work great, just can't find any for a V-6. Mabey modify some V-8 ones or something. Thanks John
 

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I have a set here from an 85 Chevy 4x4 pickup, that had the 4.3L in it. These headers are TUBULAR, not cast, and are stainless. Here are some pics of them and as you can see, they have the AIR ports on them
They were ONLY available on that year of truck, none other that I am aware of. I'll take some more pics soon of them in the Zuk, in rough form.

Driver's side:


Passenger side:


The driver's side front most primary may need to be banged in a bit to clear the steering shaft but I can't say for sure yet. On the pass. side, the header exits right into the firewall. Kinda
I will just cut off the last, rear primary and weld it in closer to the second (middle) primary. That way the'll exit down a lot sooner. BTW, it's very easy to massage exhaust tubing: use a torch, get it good and hot and bang with a BFH.

To answer your question, yes, I'm doing the 4.3L too but mine is from a 95 Astro. It's a CPI unit NOT a SFI like yours. That's the reason I stayed away from the 96 up: too many emissions and sensors. BTW, Painless Performance just released a harness for your engine.

Forgot to mention that these headers originally had some flanges on the ends, but I cut them off. Didn't need them and they would have gotten in the way.

Cheers!
Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Well they make headers for ALL years, not just 85 ?? Anyway those headers are different than mine as far as the air injection is concerned. I'm not worried about all the emmisions stuff. I had my harness made by FI specialties, and just got my ECM back from fastchip.com. They did all the reprogramming. Painless does NOt make a harness for the 2000's yet, the V-8 harness' are coming out in March, and the V-6's after. Actually I could make a set of those headers work on my engine. I would just weld in my own flanges (in a different location) to except the smog tube. I'll check with my buddy tommorrow at the speed shop. Thanks Steve
 

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You read my post incorrectly, or maybe I wasn't clear. The "headers" I showed you are STOCK, from the factory. They (as in GM) do NOT make headers for all years; they make manifolds, which suck.
just wondering but what did it cost you through fastchips? I know some guys through my F-Body club that do programming as well for dirt cheap. Not an issue now, since you're done.
Other than that, what drivetrain you running?

Cheers,
Steve
 

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I'm not
That isn't going to be for a LONG while still and will be one of the last things I build. It's not important right now. I'm going to rebuild the diff's this week and will rebuild the Dana 300 as soon as my flanges arrive. Then motor, tranny, frame painting, body chopping, body lining and paint, gauges, seats, THEN exhaust. It's still below zero here and probably will be for a while still which means painting anything is a real PITA. I'll keep everyone posted when something new happens.

Cheers,
Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I hear you !! I have tons of s#it to do as well !! I'm down to bare frame rails right now. Removed all the damn undercoating !! (@#$%&#[email protected]) Cut off all the stock mounts. Now I'm working on frame extensions, and plating the frame. Once the frame is reinforced, then I will start on mounts and stuff. So you running a D300? What do you think about running the stock T/C? Everyone claims the stock case will work fine. Lightening claims they smoke 33" tires with out a problem. Now I know that doesn't compare to hardcore trail driving, but.....You have fun and take care

John
 

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I still haven't had the pleasure of dealing with the undercoating. Don't think it'll be too bad as this frame is absolutely rust-free. I'm just going to sand down whatever needs sanding and apply some polyurethane coating, like Rhinoliner, Herculiner, etc. etc. etc.
Ya, I'm running the D300 and to be honest, I never gave any thought to running ANY stock components. Think of it this way: why are you plating the frame? And then planning on running the stock t-case??? Makes no sense right? I won't comment of "Lightning" other than to say, I've heard of their work and dealt with them via e-mail. I wasn't impressed either way and can be happy to say I never ordered a thing from them.

When I'm done with this build, and it shouldn't be much longer now, I'm going to take TONS of pics and measurements and give them to whoever wants them.

Good luck on your build and keep us posted


Cheers,
Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
First of all, my frame is also rust-free....not to much of a problem in Cali. Second of all, if it's a Zuk, then it has undercoating. Haven't seen one without it. Now why would I plate the frame...Thats kind of a dumb question. To make it stronger, obviously. Now that the body is off, this is the time to do it. As far as the stock T/C is concerned, I'm going to run it untill it grenades, then I'll worry about it. Regardless of what T/C I run, has nothing to do as to how strong my frame is. I just know I'll never have to worry about my frame. I've bent a stock Samurai frame wheeling it hard, I just don't want to do it to this one, that I'm spending all my time on, to make it cherry, you know? I plated only the inside of the frame, completely from front to back, removed the front and rear round tubes, and quarter-inched it from frt to bck. On that Dana300, is the rear output offset ?? Thanks

John


 

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Attitude problem? If you remember, and I bet you do, you e-mailed me a long while back asking for help on that 4.3L build. Which I did provide, happily. Just lurk my posts next time...
If you haven't figured out why I asked you about plating your frame THEN using the POS stock transfer case, well then....????
Think about what you said: you attacked me for the comments I made, then said you needed to reinforce the frame because of your heavy foot. OK, do it now while it's all off and easily done right? Then why the hell would you use a stock case only to await its destruction and then worry about it when the truck is DONE?! My guess? You bought the crap from Lightning, including the 2wd tranny they suggest and now your screwed.


BTW, ya, the rear Dana is offset just like a stock Samurai case. You can use it no problem


Cheers,
Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
First of all, I don't have any attitude problem...and don't worry I didn't "attack you" about your comments
Second of all I'm man enough to say that I appreciate all the help you have given me. Yes I did ask you a while back about the headers...sorry to bug you bro, I thought that was what this forum was about ??
I want you to know, I BUILD ALL MY OWN S#IT....I haven't, and don't plan on <nobr>buying</nobr> anything from Lightning, or anyone else for that matter....oops I did buy springs, rims, tires, etc. Things that I can't magically make myself. I do have a 2wd tranny, a built TH350 that came out of my father-n-laws built '57 <nobr>Chevy</nobr>. (Lightning recommends a 200R4 by the way) It's a hard-shifter, and probably will grenade the case, OH WELL. I'll redo it!!! Not a problem !!! I love wrench'n !!!!! I not even trippin, bro. I've been fab'n crap and wrench'n for over 15 yrs, not too long, but thats all I can say. Monster Garage'n over here !!....Anyway, I just had a few questions, thats all, man....didn't mean to get you all up-tight...Anyway take care, and thanks again


John
 

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I think both of yalls whinning is pointless, yall got it easier then I did...

and lets not get into how ghetto my steering had to be with that setup...Cheer up, yall got v6 samurais, go turn wrenches and forget about it
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I seen a post from you before....Your doing the 5.0 swap, right ?? Hows it going ?? That thing is going to be AWESOME!! I like that exhaust you got going too !!! Thats going to be the fire shooting "Fast & Furious" type !!! Let us know your progress. I agree about stopp'n the whine'n. I just wanted to do it my way, and if it blows, I'll re-do it. Thats what its all about, right ?? Wrenchin, changing, modifing, just plain make it better as time goes. Something always breaks when you modify something else. Thats just how it is. Thanks

John
 

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actually Im finished with the swap and have been for a little while now, Im on my second engine. It shoots fire if I punch the gas a buncha times and load the motor up with fuel, other then that it only spits a constant flame when I hit nitrous
I wont lie tho, sure its all fun wrenching on your zuk, but lets face it, building a time bomb is pointless. I chose to run my stock transfer case and drivetrain out of curiousity of how far I can push this thing before it does bust...hasnt yet *crosses fingers* however I have toyota's lying around...just gotta get off my fat a$$ and finish them..
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Exactly my thoughts, run it untill it blows. Now what do think....If your running a 5.0 with nitrous with stock drivetrain...and it hasn't blown yet ???? I think my little six-banger in front of the stock T/C should work for, at least, a week or so.....don't ya think ???
Do you have any pics of the completed Sammy ?? Thanks

John
 

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Well also consider my odds, the only wheeling I can do here is duning, mudding, and climbing dirt hills etc... Rocks are a completely different story, my truck wouldnt last 3 passes on rocks, even if I "lobe'd" over everything...
 
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