What color clutch springs on primary and secondary, primary clutch weights, helix, gearing are you running in your phazer? Are you using the stock pipe or an aftermarket one? Did you have to go to smaller drivers when you installed the longer track or are they stock? Did you do any carb mods other than jetting?
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You are set up a bit different than the 91 Phazer we still have. End result is probably close to the same though. Our setup is as follows. Primary has 8VO weights with a Wht-Lt.Grn spring. This gives a nice low engagement so you don't dig a hole on takeoff in soft fluffy snow. Wht-Lt.Grn spring has a lower preload than the Yel-Org so that is why the lower engagement. It has a higher spring rate though compared to the Yel-Org so at full shift out they are probably close.
We also have an Aaen quiet can pipe.
For secondary setup we have a Grn-Yel spring run in B2 position. I'm not sure how your secondary spring compares to this one but probably is close. I would highly recommend that you get a 39 degree helix for your sled. Part no. is 88R 17684-00. This probably made the single biggest difference in our Phazer to get it operating at the preferred 7200 rpm for the Aaen pipe. It holds at 7200 rpm now when climbing or in heavy snow. Previously with the 47 degree stock helix it would never go over 6800 unless on hardpack. Change to this helix and if you still can't get the proper rpm try a stronger primary spring before changing primary weights. I really like the Wht-Lt.Grn in our Phazer. If that spring doesn't do it you could try a Red-Brn which is slightly stiffer again if they still make it. I'm sure Tom Hartman could advise you. He knows his stuff pretty good.
For gearing we are running 17/33 but also have 7 tooth drivers because of having a 136 X 1.5" track on it. This gives an effective overall gear ratio of 2.2 to 1. Your gear ratio is 2.06 to 1 which is right on the low edge for your altitude.
Carbs have 3A main nozzles and the primary nozzle mod that you mentioned. Pilot jets are 95 and mixture screws are set at 1 3/8 turn out. I believe the mains are at 136.3 but this sled is ridden usually between 5000 to 7000 feet. We vary the mains as required.
We also have an Aaen quiet can pipe.
For secondary setup we have a Grn-Yel spring run in B2 position. I'm not sure how your secondary spring compares to this one but probably is close. I would highly recommend that you get a 39 degree helix for your sled. Part no. is 88R 17684-00. This probably made the single biggest difference in our Phazer to get it operating at the preferred 7200 rpm for the Aaen pipe. It holds at 7200 rpm now when climbing or in heavy snow. Previously with the 47 degree stock helix it would never go over 6800 unless on hardpack. Change to this helix and if you still can't get the proper rpm try a stronger primary spring before changing primary weights. I really like the Wht-Lt.Grn in our Phazer. If that spring doesn't do it you could try a Red-Brn which is slightly stiffer again if they still make it. I'm sure Tom Hartman could advise you. He knows his stuff pretty good.
For gearing we are running 17/33 but also have 7 tooth drivers because of having a 136 X 1.5" track on it. This gives an effective overall gear ratio of 2.2 to 1. Your gear ratio is 2.06 to 1 which is right on the low edge for your altitude.
Carbs have 3A main nozzles and the primary nozzle mod that you mentioned. Pilot jets are 95 and mixture screws are set at 1 3/8 turn out. I believe the mains are at 136.3 but this sled is ridden usually between 5000 to 7000 feet. We vary the mains as required.
Yes this sled has YPZ clutches.
What are the part #'s for these springs?
Wht-Lt.Grn part# 90501-555A0-00, spring rate 2.85 kg/mm preload 26 kg
Red-Brn part# 90501-60579-00, spring rate 2.85 kg/mm
preload 39 kg
I wonder if the slightly lower rate will help backshift?
Actually the lower rate decreases the backshift. The stronger the torsional rate on the spring the quicker the backshift.
What do you think about multi-angle helixes
I haven't tried or read anything about multiangle helixes for the Phazer. I don't see why they would not work though.
how did you factor in the 7 tooth drivers to arrive at 2.2
Think of it this way; with 8 tooth drivers the track moves 8x2.52"(track pitch)= 20.16". With 7 tooth drivers the track moves 7x2.52 = 17.64" This is equivalent to a further gear reduction of 7/8. You already have a reduction of 17/33 or .515 so overall this now works out to .45 . If you invert that to get back to the same working figures we are using it comes out to a ratio of 2.2. To avoid all the unnecessary math just multiply the original gear ratio by a factor of 8/7 which is the same thing.
You said my ratio is on the lower edge for my altitude, how did you come to this conclusion?
For every thousand feet of altitude you lose 3% of your power at sea level. Because the Phazer has 56HP at sea level or with the pipe having a supposed gain of 14HP you would end up at 70HP. At 9000 feet you would only end up with 51HP. That isn't a whole lot of HP to turn your track so you need to compensate by gearing down. I personally would not want a lower ratio than 2.05. You just lose too much performance in my opinion.
Tom Hartman has a carb update kit for the Phazer which includes main and pilot jets, main nozzles, and air jets. I don't believe I can remove the air jets from my carbs. Do you have any experience with this matter? I heard that you could move the little black plugs in the carb to effect performance, have you heard anything about this?
I actually had Hartman do a mod on my carbs for a 93 Phazer which I once owned. He bored the carbs, put in new main nozzles (2A), primary nozzles as well as dial-a-jets. He didn't change pilot jets or air jets. I ended up changing the main nozzles back to the stock because it was loading up on fuel and hesitating when I hammered the throttle from idle. I don't know about moving the black plugs in the carbs. All I know is they run pretty bad if you don't have them in place. I guess you could experiment to see what effect they have or better yet check with Hartman.
Have you done any other sled mods besides the 1 ½ track
This sled originally came with a 121" track. I put plastic skis on with carbides. I'm not sure of the make of skis because they were bought used. I had to make a new rubber pad in the mount but they work well. Lost quite a bit of weight too which was very nice. We haven't put in a cold air kit but I heard they work well.
I will scan and e-mail the info I have on springs and flyweights.
What are the part #'s for these springs?
Wht-Lt.Grn part# 90501-555A0-00, spring rate 2.85 kg/mm preload 26 kg
Red-Brn part# 90501-60579-00, spring rate 2.85 kg/mm
preload 39 kg
I wonder if the slightly lower rate will help backshift?
Actually the lower rate decreases the backshift. The stronger the torsional rate on the spring the quicker the backshift.
What do you think about multi-angle helixes
I haven't tried or read anything about multiangle helixes for the Phazer. I don't see why they would not work though.
how did you factor in the 7 tooth drivers to arrive at 2.2
Think of it this way; with 8 tooth drivers the track moves 8x2.52"(track pitch)= 20.16". With 7 tooth drivers the track moves 7x2.52 = 17.64" This is equivalent to a further gear reduction of 7/8. You already have a reduction of 17/33 or .515 so overall this now works out to .45 . If you invert that to get back to the same working figures we are using it comes out to a ratio of 2.2. To avoid all the unnecessary math just multiply the original gear ratio by a factor of 8/7 which is the same thing.
You said my ratio is on the lower edge for my altitude, how did you come to this conclusion?
For every thousand feet of altitude you lose 3% of your power at sea level. Because the Phazer has 56HP at sea level or with the pipe having a supposed gain of 14HP you would end up at 70HP. At 9000 feet you would only end up with 51HP. That isn't a whole lot of HP to turn your track so you need to compensate by gearing down. I personally would not want a lower ratio than 2.05. You just lose too much performance in my opinion.
Tom Hartman has a carb update kit for the Phazer which includes main and pilot jets, main nozzles, and air jets. I don't believe I can remove the air jets from my carbs. Do you have any experience with this matter? I heard that you could move the little black plugs in the carb to effect performance, have you heard anything about this?
I actually had Hartman do a mod on my carbs for a 93 Phazer which I once owned. He bored the carbs, put in new main nozzles (2A), primary nozzles as well as dial-a-jets. He didn't change pilot jets or air jets. I ended up changing the main nozzles back to the stock because it was loading up on fuel and hesitating when I hammered the throttle from idle. I don't know about moving the black plugs in the carbs. All I know is they run pretty bad if you don't have them in place. I guess you could experiment to see what effect they have or better yet check with Hartman.
Have you done any other sled mods besides the 1 ½ track
This sled originally came with a 121" track. I put plastic skis on with carbides. I'm not sure of the make of skis because they were bought used. I had to make a new rubber pad in the mount but they work well. Lost quite a bit of weight too which was very nice. We haven't put in a cold air kit but I heard they work well.
I will scan and e-mail the info I have on springs and flyweights.
Sorry I don't know of anyone that makes the cold air kit for the Phazer. Maybe Hartman has one or you could try to fab one yourself. Basically you want to get cool outside air directly into the airbox and exhaust the hot fan air out without having it go into the engine compartment. Seems to me it wouldn't be too hard to make up some kind of ducting to do the job. We used to run without the side panels on the engine compartment in the spring when the temps were higher. It helped a lot.
The Aaen clutch tuning handbook I have is marked "updated '95". I don't know what edition they are on now or if the new ones have the same info in them.
When I put the 39 deg helix in the 91 I didn't notice any appreciable difference in low and mid rpm operation. It seemed to be just as snappy as it was with the 47 degree helix. The helix you are thinking of should work well. You're right on with your logic.
It seems to me that the engagement rpm is around 2500 rpm with the Wht-Lt.Grn but I am guessing. I haven't ridden it for a couple of years but I know it was pretty low.
I don't know of any place to get the clutch tools other than Dennis Kirk in the U.S. or you could try Recreation Supply in Canada. Phone no. is 1-800-667-7669 or email them at [email protected]
The Aaen clutch tuning handbook I have is marked "updated '95". I don't know what edition they are on now or if the new ones have the same info in them.
When I put the 39 deg helix in the 91 I didn't notice any appreciable difference in low and mid rpm operation. It seemed to be just as snappy as it was with the 47 degree helix. The helix you are thinking of should work well. You're right on with your logic.
It seems to me that the engagement rpm is around 2500 rpm with the Wht-Lt.Grn but I am guessing. I haven't ridden it for a couple of years but I know it was pretty low.
I don't know of any place to get the clutch tools other than Dennis Kirk in the U.S. or you could try Recreation Supply in Canada. Phone no. is 1-800-667-7669 or email them at [email protected]
You could check www.totallyamaha.com for the parts if you haven't done so. It is a great site for Yamaha products.
Sorry, I don't know if the newer skidframes used the same springs as the old ones prior to 1990.
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