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post #1 of (permalink) Old 08-28-2001, 09:18 PM
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sidekick building

Building my first suzuki and have a couple of ? about what i thint i want to do. Here goes. Dont want to go rock crawlin just field and stream, was thinking 10.50-11.50/30-31 tires. Will these run on a sidkick without body lift or will i have to do say a 2" lift? What other 4x4 wheels will fit on the sidekicks? Ive got a turbo that used to be on a 1600 pinto, would be just the right size for a 1.6 ,does anyone make a turbo exaust manifold for the 1.6 ( Ive got to do a lot of trailer towing that would be the reason for the turbo) ? Thanks Guys

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post #2 of (permalink) Old 08-29-2001, 08:06 AM
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Re: sidekick building

to fit 30" tires that wide you will need at least a 2"
body lift,probably better to get a 3" suspension lift.

post #3 of (permalink) Old 08-29-2001, 09:07 AM
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Re: sidekick building

I ran the ProComp lift (~2.5") with 30x9.5 tires. You will need to regear the axles to use this truck properly even for field and stream work unless you want to burn the hell out of the clutch (watch the temp gauge!) or run obstacles much too fast. Highway is fine if a little gutless (my truck was a 16V, pulled trailers, was adequate - lots of downshifting).

Then I added a 3" body lift and ran 33x9.5 tires. I hated this setup, the body lift in particular. It didn't really get me anything other than a little bit of height from the tires and screw up my gearing again. This was long before there were transfer case gears for the TracKicks...

Bt/dt

If it was my nickels to spend I would go with the Calmini suspension lift and regear the axles to compensate for the larger tires. As a general rule body lifts suck, anything more than an inch or so to make larger hardware fit causes lots of other issues.

Later on there is always the option of the lower transfer case gearing - if you even need it for your application after changing the axle gearing.

Wheels are "standard" 5"x5.5" pattern 15" rims. Very common.

For the turbo you are on your own, there are no kits or otherwise. If you weld up the manifolds to make it work make sure you address the fuel delivery and ignition otherwise you will end up with a holed piston very quickly.

HTH

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post #4 of (permalink) Old 08-29-2001, 09:36 AM
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Re: sidekick building

You've got a broken link on the suzuki stuff for the bumper.
http://root.moose.ca/~chris/suzuki/S...per/index.html
That's the right one!

I'm LOCKED!
Got zook?I do,88.5 spoa'd on 29'shttp://www.geocities.com/bik3r
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post #5 of (permalink) Old 08-29-2001, 09:47 AM
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Re: sidekick building

Now, how did that happen? Thanks.

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post #6 of (permalink) Old 08-29-2001, 11:10 AM
 
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Re: sidekick building

Well, if you don't mind doin' a bit of destructive body work, I'd say run the tires and chop the fenders to accomodate 'em (along with re-gearing, of course). Body lifts suck, and rumor has it the calmini lift kit isn't so hot either (really stiff and delicate, but that's just heresay, as I haven't run one myself). Hindsite is 20/20, and I wish I had just cut my fenders in the first place rather than liftin' myself. Tire clearance is great and needed, but body height (whether it's from body lifts, springs, whatever) will just raise your center of gravity and topple you that much easier.

One thing I would recommend if you're just startin' out is the sit back think about exactly where you want to go. I thought I was just gonna do a minor mod to make my sami a bit more trail-worthy (field and stream, if you will). Just one mod and that would be fine. Boy, was I wrong, and now I want to redo some of the stuff I thought would be enough back in the day.

You see, you start takin' your ride out, and you get amazed by where it will go (even stock). Then you find yourself on a mission to see how far you can push it, ya know, find its limitations. Then, you finally get into a place you can't get out of, and you think to yourself "I bet I could modify my suspension/engine/whatever just a bit, and I could make thru this hole next time!". Well, that simple mod will start off a whole chain reaction of mods that never end. Not to mention arguements with your significant other where you try to explain to 'em why you HAVE to have this mod!

Every time I make a mod, I test the new limitations of my ride, and am ultimately disappointed that you actually CAN find a way to stop my zook, and it's back to the drawing board.

I think the best advice I could give you be to sell your sidekick, buy a moped and take up needlepoint. This will save you hours of exhaustive work, thousands of dollars, countless bitter arguements, and hundreds of abrasions when the wrench slips. Sure, you won't get that adrenaline rush when you counter some radical obstacle, but you might end up with some really beautiful sweaters, and your spouse will love you that much more for it! :-)

Of course, it's not what I'd do, but it is the smart thing to do!

Pillard
'87 Sami, 5.5" SpOA, 33" Pro-Comps, Snorkel, 8k winch, 23" buggy-leafs, Cal 4.16 t-case, Lkd Frt, welded rear, 8-point Roll Cage, etc, etc.
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post #7 of (permalink) Old 08-29-2001, 11:28 AM
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Re: sidekick building

Perry makes a good point, to a point.

How far are you seriously interested in going? I know in my case that with the tire/lift combination I have now I am really happy with the capability of my truck (the SJ). I might eventually add some MLs but even then only the style that will allow me to keep my stock length OME springs.

The truck goes anywhere I would conceivably want to take it. When I look at some of the places people are driving off-road I just have to shake my head. Not my "cup o' tea" if you will...

If I had my time over again, I think I would have left the Sidekick workable with a ~3" lift and 31s. At least it would be drivable now.

The ProComp lift had a bad reputation for being stiff. And it was. The geometry was wrong too. Bt/dt.

As far as the Calmini lift being fragile, I find that hard to believe. You might have heard some second hand RRO FUD? Calmini has sold a _LOT_ of these lifts and I have yet to see any real proof that they are fragile. If they were we'd be hearing blue murder being screamed everywhere. Looking at the construction on the face of it, the Calmini peices are at least as strong as the factory stuff - most likey more strong.

In an ideal world, I'd like to see a combination kit of the Calmini parts with OME springs that net a full 6" of suspension lift. Would be pricey though. Combine that with the steel front diff center section that JM Manufacturing makes and that would be a fairly robust setup. Add air lockers to either end with the correct gearing and that would be a hell of a field and stream machine.

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post #8 of (permalink) Old 08-30-2001, 06:33 AM
 
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Re: sidekick building

I have a '93 tracker and can tell you the sore parts. I run a 3" calmini body lift that I have been happy with, other that it being a huge PITA to install and the bolts coming loose every 6 months or so it's been great. I also run a ProComp 2.5" kit and well, they don't make it anymore for a reason, it pretty much sucks, rides very stiff. If you want to start out really cheap I'd suggest the RRO 2" body lift and get a set of their 1" coil spacers a set of longer shocks for the back and flip the front strut mount. This should give you about enough room for a set of 30's. Spend the rest of your money on skid plates, you WILL need them!!

93 Tracker, ProComp, Calmini, 31's, Thorley, K&N, etc..., aka the donor. Looking for a donee..
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post #9 of (permalink) Old 08-30-2001, 06:34 AM
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Re: sidekick building

RootMoose is right.

I have the Calmini 2.5" on my 2000 GV Limited. I love it. As far as it being built shoddy, I disagree. The front control arms are works of art. These are built bullet proof, and weight in around twice the weight as the stockers. I dragged them on rocks several times now and they work flawlessly. In all, the system is well made/thought out, right down to using MOOG ball joints and rod ends. I always liked MOOG stuff.

Now, as far as how much suspension lift you can get, 3" is max on a Sidekick. It has to do with operable range of the CV. Basically, in stock config, the axle is near level from the transaxle to the hub. It has a range of motion upward and downward. With a lift, you re-engineer the control arm and springs to give height by having the CV move to the lower limit of the operable range. This limits downward travel, but increases upward motion. It also increases lift. The important thing is that the CV should never leave the operable range.

I'd avoid the Pro-Comp style kit that lowers the crossbrace or diff significantly. Not only does it decrease ground clearance, but exposes the aluminimum diff to rock damage even more than in the stock config.

Also consider that the Kick has no castor/camber adjustment, only toe. Redesigning or relocation of the control arm is needed to correct this when lifting the truck. So lifting by springs only can result in funny tire wear and possible objectionable on-road handling.

I'm less that 1500 miles till the factory warranty comes off. I have winter plans for the t-case gears and a rear ARB air-locker. And spring plans to drive it from NY to Moab, UT.

On the steel front case note, you can get them from Suzuki now. They are available in GV and XL7 V6 sticks only. I think the whole case (axle and carrier case) is around two bills, but don't quote me.

As for suggestions, go with the 3" Calmini system. It's the only complete set-up that I'm aware of.

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post #10 of (permalink) Old 08-30-2001, 11:52 AM
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Re: sidekick building

(This has nothing to do with the original post/question)



My "clean sheet" TracKick lift:

- steel center, Sam iron carrier
- ~3" drop brakets
- 3" of suspension lift via springs and dual A-arms at the front
* get the geometry right, potential for more/smoother king pin
arc
- sway bar disconnect (of course!)
- High angle CV shafts WITH slip yokes in the shaft centers
- Dropped pitman/idler to eliminate bump steer

Radius the fenders and add a 1" body lift and you can probably fit 35s with the right offseet wheels.

The big thing with running the IFS CVs in a lifted vehicle is partially the amount of angle that the CVs will see, but that is not the only thing that causes lots of wear and/or breakage. CVs by their nature are meant to run at large angles, otherwise you wouldn't be able to steer.

As the CV deflects beyond the stock operating range the distance between the knuckle and the centered diff also increases. This means that there is a thrust load put on the CV which makes the possibility of breakage/wear even higher. Think about it as if the shaft is pulling on the CV.

For the record, someone that is handy could make a steel front center for a lot less than what Suzuki charges by starting with a Samurai front axle.

How's that for off-topic, on a tangent?

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