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post #1 of (permalink) Old 08-27-2001, 10:53 AM
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Engine swap for dummies: this dummy is wondering..

Folks,

I might be beating a dead horse, but a weekend of backroad cruising left me longing for more grunt out of my Sammy. So, I'm looking into engine swap a few months down the line.

So, the questions: are there V6 engines that are "industry standard" for Sammies? Preferably, with swap kits along the lines of those someone makes for Sidekick engine? Would there be a need for frame reinforcement/bracket welding? How much this sort of swap might cost assuming I'd have to have a shop do most of the work? Are there other issues I might not be aware of due to my cluelessness? Thanks!

Dmitri

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post #2 of (permalink) Old 08-27-2001, 01:20 PM
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Re: Engine swap for dummies: this dummy is wondering..

theres a guy out west that makes a v6 kit to put a ford in there seems like the name is wild west or something like that

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post #3 of (permalink) Old 08-27-2001, 01:35 PM
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Re: Engine swap for dummies: this dummy is wondering..

Why not re-gear first? What size tire are you running? You might find enough power there. I've got the 1.3 with cam, header, and weber. I've got GRS II from petroworks with 31" tires. I'm changing r&p to 4.62 because I want to go slower. Having a shop put in a v6 could be big $$$. Putting gears in a transfer case is very easy with normal hand tools, no critical measurements etc.

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post #4 of (permalink) Old 08-27-2001, 01:57 PM
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Re: Engine swap for dummies: this dummy is wondering..

if i remember right the wild west kit is 85.00 but you will have to get new rad. ect....

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post #5 of (permalink) Old 08-27-2001, 02:27 PM
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Re: Engine swap for dummies: this dummy is wondering..

I'm running stock size tires (and I want to keep it that way, as off-road driving is maybe half of all driving in my world, tops). What I'm after is a tad more highway performance. Granted, I can keep it at 50 mph all day, and I can push it to 70 on level road (with a tailwind - which is consistent with my Dad's UAZ performance, with about the same hp rating), but it runs out of breath whenever I need to go uphill. I don't think re-gearing is the answer here - but, let me know if I'm wrong.

By the way, what about cam, header and Weber? Since I'm considering engine rebuild/hop-up as an option, what kind of performance gain and reliability loss we're looking at there?

D.



post #6 of (permalink) Old 08-27-2001, 02:38 PM
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Re: Engine swap for dummies: this dummy is wondering..

I am going to help you beat that horse. The answer to your question is to but a 1600cc tracker/sidekick motor. I ahve heard and seen that they go like a scolded dog.

Jason

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post #7 of (permalink) Old 08-27-2001, 03:27 PM
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Re: Engine swap for dummies: this dummy is wondering..

just get the weber carb. you can order it from calmini for about $350.00. it takes about an hour to install, with a stock sami those hills will be a thing of the past. just hang on to your stock carb. if you have to have it smogged. Lance

87 Sami conv. Header 2" ex. 4-16 t-case, 5"lift,weber, rear lockrite,rancho's, and a very long wish list.
post #8 of (permalink) Old 08-27-2001, 03:37 PM
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Re: Engine swap for dummies: this dummy is wondering..

just my opinion, but i wouldnt even think of messing with a 1.6 if you got a good running 1.3 or are going to the 16V 1.6... i had 1.3, scattered it, put in 1.6, everything the same, no changes, just bolted in the 1.6, 1.3 had 170K on it, the 1.6 8V had about 81K on it. no noticable power increase to me. if it were me and i had a good 1.3, id get a carb n exhaust. best improvements for the buck in my opinion. but, if you got a good factory carb, go with a cam n exhaust.
just my opinion.
BiLLy bOb


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post #9 of (permalink) Old 08-27-2001, 06:39 PM
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Re: Engine swap for dummies: this dummy is wondering..

As for industry standard, there is none V6 wise anyway. There are two Kits the wild west 2.8FORD and the Suzuki Lighting Chevy 4.3VORTEC. To me these are a bit much for a stock Samurai(read unsafe,too fast). These are not race cars and will never be race cars. But I will tell you a 16V 1.6 or a good 1.3 are you best friend. Billy is right the 8V 1.6 is DOO DOO. I have a 1.3 .020 over Ported and polished head with a Isky cam,K&N, Doug Thorly Header and all 2" exhaust(high flow cat and FLOWMASTER). and It runs like a raped Chicken! [img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/shocked.gif[/img]

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post #10 of (permalink) Old 08-27-2001, 06:55 PM
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Re: Engine swap for dummies: this dummy is wondering..

Hrmmm, 1.6 and 80 something ftlbs of torque or 2.8 and somewhere in the area of 140+ ft lbs of torque... the chopice is clear. If you want more, the 2.8 works. Plus you can fit the efi from the 2.9 on the 2.8 or simply drop the 2.9 in and throw out the Weber and all of its constant tinkerings, the tempermental little beast. [img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif[/img]
The 1.3 w/cam, Weber carb, headers, gears, will NOT increase your torque anymore than 55-57 ft lbs, nor will it get you better than 66-68 hp outside of the shop and in the real world.
If you want to build up a Sammy and have it 100% Sammy, that's cool too. But if you want some power, the 2.8 is the best for the buck.
My two cents.

Neal the Zukiguy

88.5 Weber carb, header, 4.16 t-case, 31x10.5 M/T's, 2" s/r, 2 1/2" bod lift, front tube, Swift seats, on-board air
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