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post #1 of (permalink) Old 08-20-2001, 10:53 PM Thread Starter
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clearing 31x10.50x15 tires

Hey Gang,

If everything goes right, I should have some new parts for my 88.5 Hdtp in a couple weeks. I'm picking up a used Calmini 2" s/r kit and also a set of 31x10.50x15 mud tires mounted on 15x7 rims.

Here's my question: I know I can't put those tires on there with just the 2" s/r, but what if I put on a 1" body lift and did some creative massaging with a BFH? Can I get away with those tires for a while as long as I don't do anything too extreme? I need the truck to function somewhat normally as a road vehicle, but it will be taken offroad a bit, too.

As it stands, unless I can do something relatively cheap and easy like what I suggested above (the 1" body lift) I will be taking the 31s off the wheels and putting on some nice 235/75-15s until I can get some more lift, 3" springs, probably. The stock wheels are going to get a set of studded snows for the winter, which was the original purpose of this trucklet, anyways.

Thanks for any and all suggestions,

~daxe


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post #2 of (permalink) Old 08-20-2001, 11:10 PM
 
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Re: clearing 31x10.50x15 tires

why not just go spoa? btw 235 will fit with no lift what so ever just some trimming to the ends of the bumper and beat the lip at the rear of the front fender well up.

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post #3 of (permalink) Old 08-21-2001, 07:35 AM Thread Starter
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Re: clearing 31x10.50x15 tires

>>why not just go spoa?

Several reasons.

I already have the s/r lined up. I looked at both approaches and asked questions and read lots of info here and elsewhere and decided s/r was the way to go for me.

I'm not building this rig to be a heavy duty offroad rig and have no plans to do that or even go offroading to that extent (at the moment). This rig will be on the street 95% of the time and needs to be a spare daily driver for both me and my wife.

From my observations, going SPOA involves lots of "peripheral" modifications to accomodate the greater lift. Stuff like drop pittman arms or gusseted z links, driveshaft extensions and longer brake lines are things that I don't want to pay for or deal with at the moment.

#3 My state only allows 1.5 inches of lift, and I don't want to worry about that any more than is necessary. Too much height and you also need to be concerned with how it affects the handling. Raising the center of gravity is raising the center of gravity, no matter how you look at it, and overall on-road stability has got to suffer a little when you get higher. Since I don't need the extra height, it's not worth the extra concerns.

I am just getting into this hobby and I'm not sure how I will end up. I may well get the bug to build and build and get higher and higher, but I would probably get another Zuk to do that to. Preferably a convertible. I got this one to be an on-road snow fighter and a backup vehicle for me or my wife when our regular vehicles are sick and it needs to retain that functionality.

> btw 235 will fit with no lift what so ever just some trimming to the ends of the bumper and beat the lip at the rear of the front fender well up.

I have read that before and have conflicting info about it, but I believe you. Here's how the formula looks in my head, though: stock tires are 27" and 235s are about 29". So I can go up 2" with the mods you mentioned. Add the 2" s/r lift (2"+2") and maybe I can go up the extra 4" to 31s, which I already have lined up, as well. I thought if it was a little too close at that point, that a 1" body lift (relatively cheap and supposedly "easy") would ensure that everything would fit OK. I thought body lift because it doesn't change the driveline or steering geometry.

~daxe


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post #4 of (permalink) Old 08-21-2001, 08:19 AM
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Re: clearing 31x10.50x15 tires

If you add the 2" S/R and the 2" body, I wouldn't recommend anything larger than a 30"x9.50".

Reasons:

1) Wider than 9.50" and you'll be rubbing the springs at full lock, unless you backspace your rims. Even with the full 5" combo, wider that 9.50" on standard rims will rub the springs.

2) You might possibly get some rubbing on the rear of the front wheel well under compression, especially if the tire is turned.

Again, if you are going the 2"+2", I strongly recommend 30" tires.

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post #5 of (permalink) Old 08-21-2001, 08:34 AM
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Re: clearing 31x10.50x15 tires

Daxe without some sort of gearing correction the 31's will
have your truck gasping for breath where you live. At the least you need a babylobster or a 4.16 t-case. then there
is the issue of if they will fit.. You should talk to
Dbenj He is running 235 mud tires and is looking to go
to a SPOA maybe you buys can work something out.

Glenn
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post #6 of (permalink) Old 08-21-2001, 09:01 AM Thread Starter
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Re: clearing 31x10.50x15 tires

>>If you add the 2" S/R and the 2" body, I wouldn't recommend anything larger than a 30"x9.50".

I was actually only talking about a 1" body lift, so that makes it even worse.

>>>1) Wider than 9.50" and you'll be rubbing the springs at full lock, unless you backspace your rims. Even with the full 5" combo, wider that 9.50" on standard rims will rub the springs.

Aha. This is good to know. Out of everything I have read, that's the first time I think that was mentioned.

>>Again, if you are going the 2"+2", I strongly recommend 30" tires.

This is only the question it is because I already "contracted" to get some 31s. A collection of circumstances had me ending up with them when I was really only shooting for the rims they are mounted on. I guess it makes no sense to orient an entire series of mods around a set of tires, eh? I should just unmount them and hang on to them until I find someone who needs 'em.

Thanks, Tim.

~daxe


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post #7 of (permalink) Old 08-21-2001, 09:06 AM Thread Starter
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Re: clearing 31x10.50x15 tires

>>Daxe without some sort of gearing correction the 31's will
have your truck gasping for breath where you live.

The old 15mph up every hill in 1st gear @4000rpm trick, huh?

> At the least you need a babylobster or a 4.16 t-case. then there
is the issue of if they will fit..


Yeah..like I replied to Tim, basing everything around a set of tires seems increasingly silly.

> You should talk to
Dbenj He is running 235 mud tires and is looking to go
to a SPOA maybe you buys can work something out.

Hmm..this is true... (looking for Dbenj info..)

thank you Glenn.

BTW, I drove past your house yesterady with the whole family in the car, just so I could point it out to my wife. I saw all kinds of Zuks in the yard and would have stopped in to say Hi but the kids were being kids and getting home seemed more urgent.

~daxe

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post #8 of (permalink) Old 08-21-2001, 09:22 AM
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Re: clearing 31x10.50x15 tires

I put the 31's on 7" rims for running it on the street and flat towing, and even while flat towing if I take a corner too sharp with my Trooper I can hear the tires rubbing on the springs. See the attached pic. This is with the 5" Calmini lift and 2" body lift. On the last run (break in and fine tuning), we also noticed some SEVERE rubbing on the lower wheelwells with the 32" Swampers, so it's time for the Sawzall and BFH. With the Swampers I cut the center out of the stock rim, inverted it, and welded it back on. A little wobble at cruising speed, but they're bias ply tires and I never balanced them. The local shop checked for runout and said they were fine though, just something to consider.

I have some 1/4 to 1/2 worn 235/15 BFG AT's I'd let go cheap, I was going to use them on the Commando and for "inspection tires", but haven't needed them yet. They'd be nice for the street, especially in the snow, but they aren't too great in the mud department.



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post #9 of (permalink) Old 08-21-2001, 10:52 AM
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Re: clearing 31x10.50x15 tires

JEEPN -

First, this paragraph will pertain to 31" tires, although you are running 32's (which should work). Are you using the 4" bumpstop extensions that came with the kit? If not, then the rubbing will not go away. When I had 31"s on mine with the 5"combo, I was running a 2" bumpstop extension. In order to do this I had to do a 2" body lift and longer stocks/upper mounts. This worked, but 31x10.50 on 7" standard rims resulted in rubbing the springs slightly. CALMINI recommends either 9.50" wide or BSing the rims.

Then I went to 33"s on 2" BS rims. The spring rubbing disappears with the BS rims, but with 33"s the rubbing of the tires to body was too much. It needed the taller bumpstop extensions. But that is what I got for trying to make a square peg fit a round hole.

But, if you bumpstop it right, the 32"s shouldn't rub the body. Springs yes, body no.

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post #10 of (permalink) Old 08-21-2001, 12:00 PM
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Re: clearing 31x10.50x15 tires

Well, I am running the 32x9.5's off-road, with the 2" backspacing in the front only, backspacing won't help the rear. The 31's are just my street tires (the ones in the pic).

No, there are no bumpstops on it, never came with any. I didn't install the lift, someone else put it on before I bought it. Rather than install bumpstops and limit what little flex I have now, I'm going to modify the body to accept the tires better. I'm not worried about warping springs as this is as stiff as a board. Just ask Max, he was complaining about it the whole day, and even rode with CharlyA to help his back. He claimed he was taking pictures, but I know better. It rides awesome down the road, but that's not why I bought it. I'm going to cut out the wheelwells and move them up about 2"-4" and see how that works. I think the 32's are a little large for the current setup, but they're awesome tires and I like the clearance. With the YJ springs I'll end up putting on bumpstops, and fine tuning that suspension more, with this one I just want to wheel it.

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