Radiator Puking pt III: The Coolant Strikes Back
Okay, retorqued head bolts, new radiator cap, same prob... boiling overflow into the reservoir and blowing out. Coolant is boiling inside the radiator violently and loudly after I stop the engine.
HOWEVER... the 1/2" diameter water bypass hose that runs from the water inlet pipe (pipe that runs out the backside of the water pump alongside the block, passenger side)to the underside of the intake manifold looks to be extremely old and collapsed when still hot.
I have not had a chance to test it since I replaced it late this evening, any thoughts on whether or not this could be the culprit? A collapsed hose restricting coolant flow to the water pump, thus backing up in the radiator and forcing coolant out the reservoir?
Also, while examining that area, I see the thermal switch (brass fitting next to temp sensor under thermostat on intake manifold) is not connected to the electrical lead that should should be soldered to it. This unit operated part of the long removed emissions system, correct? Since I have installed the Weber and gutted my Zuki of all things "emission controlled" related, that sensor is just a plug keeping collant from leaking now, correct?
Or is that disconnected electrical sensor related to my coolant problem in some distant way that evades me? I don't understand how it could, but hell, it wasn't too long ago that I couldn't tell you the difference between an intake manifold and an exhaust manifold. [img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif[/img]
Neal the Zukiguy
"If it is '...a Jeep thing...' I hope it isn't contagious"
88.5 Weber carb, header, 4.16 t-case, 31x10.5 M/T's, 2" s/r, 2" bod lift, front tube, Swift seats