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post #1 of (permalink) Old 08-04-2001, 09:51 PM Thread Starter
 
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Toy axles - tech. details needed

I'm sure this topic has a long and boring history, but here it comes again:

- the year of a donor Toy pickup would be '85 or older.
AFAIK, the '85 has biggest gussets, the '84 a bit less, the '83 and older even
less and are narrover by about 1" p/side, right???

- the driveshafts - do you guys use two front ones (with the CV-joints) and
shorten/lenghten them as needed???

- having above figured out, is the spline lenght sufficient for a serious
amount of flex, or I better go for a custom-made shaft???

Anything else I should consider before I go out and spend my aftertax $$...BTW, just got a nice letter from Revenue Canada "....you have been selected for an audit"....they make it sounds, like I should consider myself lucky...bloody bastards.

-marker
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 08-04-2001, 11:49 PM
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Re: Toy axles - tech. details needed

I'm going to do the swap very soon! Talk to Tim (Oilburner) he has toy axles under his rig and has e-mailed me some very good ideas! I have the front drive shaft that I'm going to use for the rear. It bolts right up to it. I think you have to have the bigger flangs (14m bolts) for it to fit right to the t-case? The CV joint helps out well for the rear axle since it is centerd. I think the toyota shaft is long, I'd have to look at mine, I'm sure it is longer then the stock Zuk's! I'm just waiting on some $$ so I can install a locker in the front! Looks like an easy swap. Like I said before...ask Tim for some help, he knows what you need! LAter

-Brian
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post #3 of (permalink) Old 08-05-2001, 07:21 AM
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Re: Toy axles - tech. details needed

The front shafts come in two lengths prior to '86(?). One for the 4 speed and the other for the 5 speed. The drive shaft to suit the five speed is about 8-12" longer than the four speed shaft. It makes up for the extra length of the 5 speed box.

Zooky Matt
'88 Sierra,16v efi 1.6L, 4.16 transfercase, Hilux diffs, 4.88 ratios, Locked rear, SPOA, 33" Swampers
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post #4 of (permalink) Old 08-05-2001, 09:53 AM
 
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Re: Toy axles - tech. details needed

Let me know how this one pans out, I have an extra '85 front axle housing with dropout (left from disk brake conversion on my L.C. conversion) which will interchange with all '79 up solid axle housing.

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post #5 of (permalink) Old 08-05-2001, 12:56 PM Thread Starter
 
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Re: Toy axles - tech. details needed

Zuk Jr. wrote:

....>> I have the front drive shaft that I'm going to use for the rear.

So....I understand, that for the swap two front Toy d/shafts are needed???? I guess so.
However, by doing this swap, we induce an extra driveshaft angle here caused by the Toy rear pumpkin being "off_center" relative to the T/case. Hence one more question here:
since the Toy rear pumpkin is centerd, we are dealing with the following scenario: Sammy_T/case_output-->Toy_CV_joint-->d/shaft_tube-->Toy_single_u-joint-->Toy_centered_pumpkin.
The first CV joint in this picture sends vibration_free power down the tube. Then we have an angle mentioned above that is dealt with by the second (single) u-joint. Theoretically it will cause off-synch effect and vibration on the wheels, right?? I suppose two CV joints would fix that, but is it really needed???
Would someone with this swap done please share his/her experience on that.

Tq


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post #6 of (permalink) Old 08-05-2001, 01:43 PM
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Re: Toy axles - tech. details needed

Okay, to help clear what I said I found the e-mail that Tim sent me a while ago! Tim, I hope that you din't mind if I use this!

Here ya go...
Brian,
>First let's talk about physically getting the Toyota axles undre a
Samurai.
>The odds are that you have 4.10 gears in the axles, if they are stock,
>although some came with 4.56's or even 4.88's (rare, tho) For the
front,
>you can use the factory spring perches where they are, but make sure
you
>get the u-bolts & plates if the u-blts pointed "upward". If they
pointed
>downward, you will have to do some modifications get them to point up
like
>you want. You willneed to modify your steering, also. I picked up an
>extra driver's side steering arm, cut off the curved part, and turned
it
>upside down & used it on the passenger side to make a half-assed
crossover
>steering. Then I made a custom drag link - I had to notch my froam to
>clear the bar, but if you have arched springs or enough body lift, you
>might not have to do that. Besides, with Boggers I'm afraid that arm
>wouldn't be strong enough - they will bend. I will run mine like it is
>until it bends, then I will buy the All-Pro steering kit (big money)
Or
>you could just make a z-link w/ Samurai stuff on one end & Toy on the
>other. For those Boggers, I'd Seriously consider going ahead &
changing to
>power steering. Go ahead & get you some longer brake hoses - the
Toyota
>ones will fit hte samurai hard lines. If you have the bigger Samurai
bolt
>pattern on your driveshaft flanges (the one that uses 14MM wrench)
then
>your stock front driveshaft will bolt in.
>
>On the rear, you'll need to by a pair of spring perches, and you will
have
>to run you some new hard lines to match the Samurai lines. Can't
remember
>if I was able to use stock ubolts or not -seems like they were too
short?
>Now this next part is IMPORTANT: you said you have a Toy driveshaft
-- you
>mean the Front one with the double-ujoint, right? It is Excellent to
use
>that in the rear, since the chunk is centered. When you weld your
perches
>on, you want the pinion to be pointing RIGHT AT THE T-CASE FLANGE to
use
>that driveshaft. NOT just up from level a tad like w/ regular shafts.
You
>will need to do a little fab work to get the driveshaft to fit on the
Zuk
>flange. I reccommend taking the double-ujoint apart and having the
little
>lip on it machined down so it will fit inside the zuk flange- then,
turn
>the bolt patterns pattern 90 degrees & drill the Toy patten on the zuk
>flange. It sounds complicated, but it's not bad - I had access to a
small
>bench lathe & did mine myself. Of course you will have to shorten the
>driveshaft - A LOT!!! It is painful to look at, but mine has held
>together so far. Have it balanced, too. You will have to rig up your
>e-brake. I will tell you one more thing, and you must be honest with
>yourself -- if you tend to put your foot in it , you are going to have
>awesome axle-wrap, especially in the rear. Not only is this
dangerous, you
>will Ruin rear springs constantly. I built a ladder bar which does
not
>limit my articulation, and it fixed this. You will need one, too.
>
>That should be enough to either scare you out of swapping the axles,
or
>convince you that you'r on the right path I currently run
BFG M/T
>35's and have had no problems w/the Birfields or anything. I run
>LockRights front & rear, and have the high-pinion FJ-80 diff's Front
And
>Rear - it helps a lot w/ the chunk offset. I know what you mean about
the
>rear locker, but with the heavier Toy axles it's not nearly as bad as
with
>the lighter zook stuff. Still, you need Something in the rear - you
might
>want to check into the Gearless Locker, also they are starting to make
an
>electronic locker for the Dana's - Toyota shouldn't be too far away.
You
>are saying you are gonna put a big V-6 in your rig - I do not have Any
>experience with that kinda power! I do have the VW diesel which is
>considerably stronger than the Suzuki engines, but not like what
you'll
>have. I guess I would talk to Toyota guys w/ in their trucks & big
Boggers
>& see what they run. Your Samurai will be a Lot lighter, so you
should be
>able to get away with a little less gear than they do.
>
>If it were me, I'd be tempted to go completely with the Chevy
drivetrain,
>t-case & all. This would mean custom driveshafts, but your gearing
would
>be much better because the Samurai t-case is reduced lower than 1:1
even in
>2WD - this is Not good for that V-6 which will want lower rpm's. Once
you
>get the bugs worked out of the engine/tranny/tcase swap, I'd probably
try
>the 4.10's just because you got 'em & see how it works. You will have
to
>be careful when talking to guys to get their opinions- many times,
what
>they think is acceptable will not be driveable on the street.
>
>Good Luck,
>
>Tim J

This is a pic of what Tim was talking about with the steering system (no, this isn't Tim's rig)


-Brian
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post #7 of (permalink) Old 08-06-2001, 12:04 AM Thread Starter
 
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Re: Toy axles - tech. details needed

Ooooo, this is a good portion of info there. Definitely two front Toy d/shafts are needed - I was guessing correctly.
Thx man!!!

-marker
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post #8 of (permalink) Old 08-06-2001, 06:06 AM
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Re: Toy axles - tech. details needed

Yeah or just the CV style joint on both ends! Shouldn't be that hard to cut one off another D/S and weld it on, take it down to the D/S shop and have them balance it out for ya! Glad that the info helped ya out.

-Brian
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