Everyone who owns a Zuk is always striving for a little more horsepower, cams, carbs, engine swaps, you name it. But, a lot seem to overlook the little things, things that ROB you of that power we all seek. With a base of 62 HP to build on, every little bit helps. I just bolted in my new CV rear drive shaft from Asian Auto, and I was impressed with the NOTICEABLE difference. Not only was the growl, vibration, and T-Case lever shake eliminated, BUT it also proved to me that trying to drive the rear axle through a drive shaft that is experiencing binding from mis matched u-joint angles was also eating horsepower. On the interstate, I was cruising a good 5 mph faster with less throttle. Everyone spends dollars on lifts and tires, and engine mods, you name it, but it seems few want to spend the extra bucks and fix a problem that is common in a majority of lifted Zuks. If you have over 6" of suspension lift, this is something that should be a priority. The gains are wonderful and well worth the money, and no longer having to worry about those u-joints is a big plus to boot. Just DO IT!

TGT - NCO

www.northcoastoffroad.com

How would a modified toyota CV drive shaft compare to the one you have?

Don't force it, just get a bigger hammer.

It should do the same job, the point is to do something to change the binding going on, and a CV style shaft is the way to do it. You just can't change the axle angles enough with the stock shaft to eliminate the problem. I wish I had done it a year ago.

TGT - NCO


www.northcoastoffroad.com

Did you order it direct from Arizona Drivelines? And also does it use bigger u-joints than stock and how much travel does it have? Thanks. I'm sick of breaking stock rear u-joints.

-Ryan
'88 Sami. Moderately modified. Two track mind
[email protected]

No, I got it through Dave King at Asian Auto, he seems to give a better price than going direct, and since I don't sell them, I was a regular consumer as well. It has a ton more flex and length than the stock, can't say how much, Dave would know. It uses the 1/2 ton GM truck u-joints, pretty massive piece.

TGT - NCO

www.northcoastoffroad.com

wow! Tim I knew the Sumo was cool...and I am glad your as happy with it as I thought you would be...

but I gotta' say "you just topped any product review the co-editor(s) of this board (ORC) could have done"...

sorry Geoff...looks like you will have to write about something else....LOL Oh wait...maybe we could send a shaft from the Tranny to the T-case, with those same specs? haha

I was going to say Thanks, but your doing just what I have been trying to do....save these guys money and provide a product that will make your Zuk a little better...

auh, what the heck...Thanks Tim!

Dave

Tim
Is your Spoa at the stock angle?
In other words parallel to the stock perches?


DannyL

http://www.partszuki.homestead.com

how much are they i need one w/ 3.5 in more in the front and 2.5 in the rear please let me know i am in desperate need

BUCK YOU!!!

Danny, the front perch is level with the old perch, you can't change it without screwing up the steering or cutting and rotating the dif. The rear was siting at the same pinion angle as stock, but to do that going SPOA you need to kick the pinion up about 2 - 3 degrees so it reads 13 degrees sitting on the floor, then weld on the pads. When it goes under the springs, it comes out to the stock pinion angle of about 10 degrees. If you don't do this in the beginning, you wind up with the pinion around 7 - 8 degrees on the flange, which is too shallow and causing big vibration problems. For the CV shaft, you have to point the pinion right at the T-Case flange. I had to kick the pinion up with a 4 degree shim to get close. Later I will cut off my pads and re-weld them.

TGT - NCO

www.northcoastoffroad.com

How much are we talking and do you hav any pics?

Manitoba Trail Masters
Brent