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post #1 of (permalink) Old 07-21-2001, 12:51 PM
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Ignition System checks 92 Sidekick

When using an ohm-meter to check the coil igniter what kind of readings should I suspect. Tested mine and with no voltage on terminals "IB and G" I get 3.5 megaohms on terminals "G and OC". With 3volts applied to terminals "IB and G" I get 9.75megaohms on terminals "G and OC" but when the voltage is removed while still checking resistance on "G and OC" the resistance drops to 975 kohms. I'm in desperate need of help on this. My Zuke won't Idle worth crap and at higher rpms it stumbles and spits and sputters. I've already had computer rebuilt, put on several new parts (plugs, wires, cap, rotor, coil) checked resistance on sensors per Haynes manual (TPS, IAC) and everything is in spec. Sprayed WD-40 on vacuum hoses and intake flanges searching for vacuum leaks. I'm at my wits end on this sucker. Also is there a way to check the distributor pickup assembly without having to have an ocillascope. Oh I almost forgot, I've also gone the fuel supply route too, new fuel pump, screen, filter. Anybody that can help would be greatly appreciated since "I MISS RIDEN IN MY ZUK" (flame was cry for help}.

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post #2 of (permalink) Old 07-21-2001, 04:55 PM
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Re: Ignition System checks 92 Sidekick

We need for you to give some details to help aid in your diagnosis..
What makes you so sure your problem is in the ignition or computer? Some of my experience with suzukis' is the thin wiring and weak connections... Did you try a wiggle test before replacing parts?? This is part of the basics...

Try to give the history of the problem leading up to this point... Is this a gradual or sudden problem. Hot or cold. Intermittent or continuous. Have you just done some engine work? Did you go under water??? Help by giving us more info so we can help you... As much as you can think of...
I can think of a few things that may cause your symptoms that are and are not computer related.. Also, Aftermarket Processors (computers) are "Junk" you MUST use a factory unit, as these rebuilts will only add to your problems.... Been there done that...

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post #3 of (permalink) Old 07-21-2001, 08:26 PM
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Re: Ignition System checks 92 Sidekick

Sorry rodnee, I made an assumption I shouldn't have. I did all the visual inspections and wiggle/unplug/replug tests, the condition presented itself very suddenly and the longest a smooth idle that has occurred has been 30sec. to 1 minute. No maintenance had been performed and I havn't caught it in the local swimming pool unless it sneeks out while I'm in bed. I needed that good laugh. I had the computer rebuilt because it was showing codes on the IAC and TPS which both checked out to be in specs ergo I thought must be a computer problem. As for aftermarket engine control computers I think I picked a very reputable rebuilder since he guaranties his work for 3 years and the price for the rebuild was market average ($300).

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post #4 of (permalink) Old 07-22-2001, 10:00 AM
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Re: Ignition System checks 92 Sidekick


Ok... Hang on because... here we go... If you want help I'll do the best I can but we'll have to REALLY dig into this....I don't mean to be a pita but it is difficult at best to help with a diagnosis on the computer and not in actually work on the car in person.

Just to set the stage... I am an Automotive Diagnostic Technician and have my own Auto Repair Shop. In the past I have seen some really interesting problems. Most of the electronic headaches in our town eventually wind up in our shop after everyone else has had a shot at it... We have a 95% success record and money is usually the reason the last 5% doesn't get fixed..

If the Zook was here at my shop I'd probably have it fixed by now and we'd be out wheeling with it...

Just spend some time on your computer and help me to help you. Give as much info as you can remember and we'll go from there...


The codes you received can be the result of the processor "Seeing something purely Mechanical in nature" and does not mean these parts are at fault. If you disconnect a vacuum hose while the engine is running the processor will generate a birrage of codes in the order they were detected.
Were your codes hard or soft codes? ( before or after the pause line) Did you erase them and did they return immediately or a while later?
Disconnect the battery, let the zook set for an hour and reconnect. Do not start it. Check for codes Key on engine off. Record results.. Now start it run until hot and recheck the codes. Are they the same are there more codes?
Record these results. Let me know. Look up the codes for me as I don't have that info here right now.

Apparently you are confident in your rebuilt Processor. I have had so many bad aftermarket units I don't use them anymore. I either buy New or Junkyard units period... You must check the calibration codes to be sure it is programmed properly.

Now, I need a very in depth description of your problem in order to help ( and I'll at least try to give advice to lead you down the right path ).

Is this engine in a Samurai ( 1.6 converted ) or Make Model Auto A/C . Does the area you live in do emissions inspections and has it failed? H/C NOX etc...

You said "it won't idle" and then later you said "the longest a smooth idle has occured has been 30sec- 1 min"

Does the engine race and will not return to idle ?
Does the engine run at idle and become rough and shake ?
Does the engine die out and does the computer compensate for the roughness and raise the idle?

Does it do this when Cold & Hot or just Hot ?
( Open or Closed Loop).

Is your EGR working or hung open by carbon deposits? ( will cause stalling )

Is there Vacuum to the map sensor?

Is the vacuum brake booster leaking?

Tell me...

How many miles?

Has the Timing belt been changed ?
( Broken Teeth, slipped timing )

Are the original ignition wires, cap and rotor still on the engine ( Old wires and ignition components Destroy Processors.) I replace 1 or 2 Processors a week because of lack of tune-up maintenance. Poeple just don't understand maintenance... The 30,000 volts leaking from old ignition wires and bouncing around in your processor isn't good.

Have you checked the oxygen sensor signal ( it should switch 1-5 volt on -off -on - off) and related wiring?

Did you perform a vacuum test at idle and on the road?
What were the results?

PHEW...... Sorry, but all of these can cause the idle problem. Let's start narrowing this down..

Just tryin' to help a fellow Zooker...


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post #5 of (permalink) Old 07-22-2001, 05:32 PM
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Re: Ignition System checks 92 Sidekick

Rodnee where in NY are you? Max

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post #6 of (permalink) Old 07-24-2001, 04:56 PM
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Re: Ignition System checks 92 Sidekick

Sorry for the delay Rod. Was watching my grand-daughter the last couple of days.
I did what you said in the last message. No codes, started and warmed up. Checked computer and no codes. I had to pump the gas pedal while warming to normal op temperature kept trying to die.

The engine is a 16 valve, manual trans., with A/C and was not a conversion. It's in a 92 Sidekick JX 4dr hardtop.

The idle will be smooth 30sec. to maybe a 1min. then sometimes but not always it might increase rpm a couple hundred then suddenly act like it's loosing spark - spit and sputer and decrease to maybe a 1 hundred rpm (going by dash tac) and die eventually. It you give it throttle to say 1500-2000 rpm it misses badly like it's loosing spark for amywhere from 1 to 3or4 min.then races up evening out (but not completely {minor miss}) then goes back to missing badly like its loosing spark. Now when it does this gross miss if you let off the throttle it immediately drops off rpm and dies but if its in the slightly smooth stage it drops rpm as if you let off the throttle. I'm no expert but it acts to me like an electrical device in the ignition circuit is working then heats up to the point of failure or gross malfunction, cools somewhat then starts the process all over again. I ran the engine for 10 to 15 minutes at normal op temperature and it went through this cycle several times. The reason why I think its ignition is that
during this gross missfire stage I can smell gas fumes as if there were a choke closed on a carb.

Does the above cold or hot

EGR appears to be working since I can open it with my finger and it closes back.

Pulled vacuum hose for brake booster at intake and blocked vaccum port, above condition repeated itself.

I don't have a map sensor, mine is MPFI

New plugs, wires, rotor, cap, coil just put on.

O2 sensor checks ok.

I don't have a vacuum gauge to test the vacuum.

post #7 of (permalink) Old 07-25-2001, 01:35 AM
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Re: Ignition System checks 92 Sidekick

My 93 Sidekick JX 1.6L 16v has a similiar problem intermittently. Sometimes when cold it idles erractically running at 1500 rpm then all of sudden going to 400/500 rpm.
It doesn't do it all the time, after it's warmed up, idles with a miss. Above 1200/1300 rpm runs fine. It's been like this for several years. Even with a rebuilt engine acts the same. Just my two cents. Good luck.

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