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post #1 of (permalink) Old 07-02-2001, 09:32 PM Thread Starter
 
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Jeepn,D30 question

I picked up a 87 YJ front axle for possible use on my Samurai in the future. Now that it's sitting on the shop floor and I can check
it out it looks like that if it's used in a SPOA suspension that the tie rod might interfere with the leaf springs. Any experience with this?
I see Tri-County Gear has a kit to put the the tie rod on top of the steering arms but they want $1100 for it. Is there a less expensive
way to accomplish this?


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post #2 of (permalink) Old 07-02-2001, 09:37 PM
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Re: Jeepn,D30 question

I know you can home brew youre own crossover steering in a scout for the dana 44. So i dont know why you couldnt do it for a dana 30. Check out the website www.binderbulletin.org Its a sight dedicated to International harvester and im almost positive that theres a write up on how to home brew a crossover steering setup.

Hope this helps.


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post #3 of (permalink) Old 07-02-2001, 10:01 PM
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Re: Jeepn,D30 question

You may want to check that again. The YJ D30's had a vacuum disconnect 4WD system and thus no hubs, they also had a driver's drop front pumpkin and not a passenger's side like the Zuk. You'd have to do some modifying to get it to fit. Are you sure it's a YJ D30?

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post #4 of (permalink) Old 07-02-2001, 10:21 PM Thread Starter
 
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Re: Jeepn,D30 question

Yes it's a YJ D30. In order to get that high pinion I'm willing to spend the money for a Warn hub conversion and change the drop
to the other side (getting rid of the vacuum disconnect at the same time). I'm hoping that I can use some of the shorter CJ inner
shafts to narrow down the axle to Samurai size. I'm just checking feasibility at this time to see if this project can fly.
So,do you know if the tie rod will clear the springs on a SPOA?


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post #5 of (permalink) Old 07-02-2001, 11:24 PM
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Re: Jeepn,D30 question

So basically you're only using the YJ centersection right? You can also use D44 shafts in the D30, or at least the D44 joints, the 1995 YJ's and the current TJ's use the larger 297X joints instead of the 260X joints in the D30 you have. Retubing the axle is a good idea, most people don't want to put forth the effort to make a good axle. You do realize 4.56's are the lowest gearing available for the reverse cut D30 don't you? You can swap the sides and use stock shafts, the long shaft from an XJ (Cherokee) will fit in place of the vacuum disconnect side of the YJ D30.

Unfortunately the YJ D30 isn't the same as the TJ or CJ D30's. I don't know anyone that has done it, but you may, and I emphasize the word may, be able to put the CJ tubes on the YJ pumpkin, in the reverse order of the YJ setup. IF this can be done, you can convert it yourself to a high steer setup using J-truck or Chevy parts, all of which are mix-and-match and over-the-counter. You can also get the internally splined hubs, which are much stronger, and the 5x5.5" bolt pattern instead of the 5x4.5" of the YJ. This will take some work, but it's been done by a few people I know, and it's a worthwhile swap. I think I may convert the D30 I'm swapping into the Zuk to a high steer setup, but I'll see if the need is there first.

You could also build a D30/D44 Hybrid, the Scout II front D44 axle had some outer parts compatabile with the CJ D30, so maybe the tubes could be grafted together for an easier swap. So many possibilities, so little time!

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post #6 of (permalink) Old 07-03-2001, 12:25 AM Thread Starter
 
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Re: Jeepn,D30 question

Jeepn,
I was contemplating using the YJ knuckles and center section but now that you've given me a bunch of options I'll have to
ponder the situation. I think Superior has 4.88 R&P's but 4.56's work perfect for my 33" tires and 4.16 T-case so there is no
problem with gearing.
I'm curious as to which year/model D30 you are using and how it's width (between wheel mounting surfaces) compares to a Samurai.
You're going to run disc brakes?


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post #7 of (permalink) Old 07-03-2001, 12:49 AM
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Re: Jeepn,D30 question

I didn't know the YJ had a reverse cut dana30, i thought the XJ was the only one. How about that.

post #8 of (permalink) Old 07-03-2001, 07:11 AM
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Re: Jeepn,D30 question

I would not use the knuckles on the YJ D30, they use a stupid, and very expensive, bearing.

I have the D30 out of my '81 Scrambler, I replaced it with a D44 front, so it's a narrow track, has 3.73's, and has the same wheelbase as the Zuk stock axle, and even the spring pads are within 1" of being a dead bolt on. The wide track D30 (made from '82 to '86, except CJ-5's, which never had them) is 2" wider per side (with the pads being same width as the narrow track), and the YJ D30 is 4" wider per side than the narrow track. In fact, the Scout II D44 front is the same width as the YJ D30.

I think the D30 is a good axle swap for a Zuk, they are slightly stronger than the stock Zuk axle, and have U-joints as well. Parts are available for them cheap as people swap them out, and the '77-'80 models have stronger 6 bolt hubs. The '77 and '78 D30's also have thicker front rotors for better stopping power. D30's before 1977 had drum brakes.

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post #9 of (permalink) Old 07-03-2001, 09:07 PM Thread Starter
 
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Re: Jeepn,D30 question

If I use the YJ knuckles it will be in conjunction with a Warn hub conversion. This will give me locking hubs,5 on 5 1/2" bolt pattern and
get rid of the original wheel bearings.
I stopped at my local 4x4 shop today and they showed me a kit made by M.O.R.E. that moves the tie rod up under the leaf springs
(on a SPOA) and places the drag link over the springs.There is also the Tri-County Gear conversion that moves both pieces above
the springs.And as you have told me there's a way to do a high-steer with OEM parts.
Thanks to you and Zukinut for your input on Dana axles.If I ever finish this project I'll post a report on this BBS.



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