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post #1 of (permalink) Old 07-01-2001, 11:37 PM Thread Starter
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Zuk axles are CRAP!

Just had to get that out there. I fought all day long trying to get the axles out of my other Zuk, but to no avail. I specifically drove 100 miles each way to pull them, figuring it'd be an easy job and figuring I'd need them for an upcoming 4WD run. We put the Zuk in the barn, all set in it's stall, and broke the lug nuts free, which was no easy task by itself.

I should have known something was up when one of the rear drum bolts snapped the 3/4" to 1/2" impact adapter. No problem, the backup got it off. I unbolted the rear drums, and they wouldn't come off. No amount of beating would free them, even after being soaked in PB Blaster. Finally we hauled out the Porta-Power and jacked between the wheels. That did the trick on the passenger's side, and jacking from the springs to the tire did the driver's side.

With that off, I tried to remove the E-brake assembly. Looks simple enough, just remove the cotter type pin and take out the roll pin. Got the cotter pin out, but there was no way the roll pin was moving. After fighting with it and not getting anywhere, I finally grabbed the snips and cut the cable. Problem solved. The other side did the same thing.

So now I'm onto the brake line. I used the flare nut wrenches, but it stripped out. Yep, the nut on the brake line actually stripped while using a flare wrench, and yes, it was the right size. I even PB Blastered it as well. No problem, more cutting. Next problem solved.

Now to remove the shaft. Nope, not budging. Tried hammering on it. Nope, nothing there. Tried putting the tire/drum back on and using it as a slide hammer. Nope, nothing doing. Grabbed the Porta-Power again and used the spreader jaws. Nothing. Wait a minute, "nothing" with a Porta-Power? Yep, it would not budge, either side. No matter what I tried I couldn't get them off.

So I left them there and started working on the front. On one side two of the lug nuts were spinning but not backing off. Yep, the stud broke free. No getting those off today.

So I abandoned my project, after a good solid 5 hours of working on it. Yes, I was and still am a little ticked. Anyone have any idea of how to get this damn thing apart?

I also have a housing up here with me (100 miles northeast of where Zuk #2 is) and the long shaft (the one that breaks) is also jammed in the housing with no give in sight. I was going to have it rehabbed with new bearings and seals, until I found out it'd cost over $110 to have them done ($80 just in parts!), which is why I decided to make the trip. Now what was it about Zuks that was cheap? Not the axle parts.

I have worked on old axles, like my 1978 Scout II D44 with almost 180,000 miles since the last rebuild, that weren't that much of a PITA. Same thing with the 1947 CJ-2A axle, it was a JOY compared to these.

So while I'm working on it, I'm wondering why I'm spending so much time on a junk axle. The splines twist, the shafts snap, the 3rd member is a joke of engineering (look at a D44 or a Ford 9" someday and you'll know what I mean), and the Birfields break and require the rings. The ONLY redeeming feature I can see over other axles is the kingpins, which I like, but since I've never had a ball joint break I'll live with them.

I am going to swap to a D30 narrow track front and an offset D44 rear, I'm getting rid of these stock POS's. I just don't feel like fighting them at every corner. The stock D30 I have, and I have tons of spares, jeepers just love to swap them out. The rear D44 is another matter. Maybe I'll shell out the $125 to have one of my Scout II D44's cut down and resplined. Heck, it'd probably be cheaper in the long run.

Sorry, but I had to rant and vent a little. The Zuk as a whole is a nice vehicle, I just hate certain aspects of it, like the POS axles.

JEEPN
Winter Harbor, Maine
'81 CJ-8 Scrambled, It's a Jeep, Chevy, IHC kinda thing!
'88.5 Zuki, 5" Calmini, Locked, Swamped, Rolled, and just generally broken in right!
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 07-02-2001, 12:00 AM
 
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Re: Zuk axles are CRAP!

Yea,youre not a loner,for a while it seemed as if I had to break something to get it off like it was welded or something.

Hey,I know a shortcut......[img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif[/img]
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post #3 of (permalink) Old 07-02-2001, 03:00 AM
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Re: Zuk axles are CRAP!

Yep, same prob here with the stock axles, each prob you listed I encountered. But I also had the same with my CJ-7 AMC 30 rear. I bought the CJ for $700 just for the axles to slip under my Sam. Never happened. Couldn't get either off. Gave up on the Jeep completely, and snipped my lines on the Sam and swapped the entire axle assemblies with my 3rd parts Sam. Now, when I hear noise from the bearings or 3'rd member, I instinctively make time for an entire axle swap. =)

Neal the Zukiguy

"If it is '...a Jeep thing...' I hope it isn't contagious"
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post #4 of (permalink) Old 07-02-2001, 04:00 AM
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Re: Zuk axles are CRAP!

i guess ive got the touch every axle i have pulled on my zuks came outwith just a little hassel none of the stuff yall are talking about. or im just lucky LOL

RUN IN TO YOU LATER
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post #5 of (permalink) Old 07-02-2001, 05:22 AM
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Re: Zuk axles are CRAP!

on the drum you will see two threaded holes. Screw in two 10mm bolts slowly and that should drive the drum off. I think the axles do alright over-all but I see your point. I havent had any problems (yet) but I have a set of land cruiser axles sitting around just in case...

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post #6 of (permalink) Old 07-02-2001, 07:38 AM
 
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Re: Zuk axles are CRAP!

Two things Mark. I didnt get your message about picking up that axle until sunday morning at Glenns. I think you sent it friday night but im not sure. I will pick those up on tuesday and ill call the guy before i go.

The axles. Didnt you take a spare, mount the tire but have the four inner bolts off to the axle, brake lines off and dont worry about the e brake at this point. Take an 5-8 pound maul and use the dull end to hit the edge of the rim as hard as you can, pulling no quarter with it at all. Swing away and hit each side until it comes off, usually in five or six wacks, i had to go eight with mine this weekend. I did the same thing, but ive seen Glenn do it, so i looked foward to hitting it. ITs fun!! You have to sacrifice a rim, but generally i just look at it as creating a specialty tool that you can use over and over. Hope you followed what i was typing. They come off easy, and then when the drum is off disconnect the springs and pads, that leaves you the L shaped e brake which pushes thru the backing plate. After that, take a 3 pound hammer and tap on the backing plate and presto its a boy! The axle comes right out.

Before you even tried to remove the axle shaft, did you drain your blinker fluid? That helps a lot.

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post #7 of (permalink) Old 07-02-2001, 08:05 AM
 
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Re: Zuk axles are CRAP!

I have had problems removing a broken axle that I had to drive with, but it wasn't that hard. I have broken several axles. As far as the axles being crap, I don't think so. For what they were designed for they are pretty stout.

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post #8 of (permalink) Old 07-02-2001, 08:17 AM
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Re: Zuk axles are CRAP!

Marc
Oh ya, well you should try to remove the top bolt on the bellhousing of a V-6 Toyota pick up!!!! Ya that's right, it's a BITCH to get at!!!
Don't sweat it, we all have bad days and on other makes other that Zuk's too.
I personaly have always had an easy time with the disassembly of the axles.
Your best friend when slappin' her back together is NEVER-SEIZE!!!!
I use it on ALL my bolts........

DannyL
Pony Express

http://www.partszuki.homestead.com
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post #9 of (permalink) Old 07-02-2001, 08:40 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Zuk axles are CRAP!

Max, no problem on picking up the axle, it's at the 4WD center close to your work. Thanks. How did the auctions go? Driving anything new?

Danny, I always Anti-Seize the crap out of everything, but unfortunately I can't get anything off. I'll have to give Max's rim idea a try, it's just hard working under such a tiny vehicle, no room. I think I have a junk willys rim laying around I can use. Certain jeep bellhousings are the same, it's easier to lift the body than it is to get out that bolt. Luckily I don't own one of those.

Sami, how can something be stout if it breaks? The U-joints are supposed to break before the axle does. In all my years of wheeling, I have only spun one 2 piece AMC20 rear axle, and that was understandable, I was hammering on it with 33" Swampers, and I managed to rip both rear shackles off at the same time. Otherwise I have never even come close to breaking an axle, not even the tiny D30 front end with the weak 5 bolt hubs. It's a matter of trust. I don't mind breakage, but when I can't trust the old stuff to come out, the spares aren't doing me any good.

I measured the D30, and it's the same width as the Zuk front end, but the spring perches are 1/2 to 1" narrower on the D30 than on the Zuk. Not really a problem as I'm swapping to YJ springs as well and will make my own mounts. Glad I didn't throw out the weak jeep stuff.

It just sucks loosing a whole day when there is so much work to be done in such a short amount of time.

JEEPN
Winter Harbor, Maine
'81 CJ-8 Scrambled, It's a Jeep, Chevy, IHC kinda thing!
'88.5 Zuki, 5" Calmini, Locked, Swamped, Rolled, and just generally broken in right!
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post #10 of (permalink) Old 07-03-2001, 09:00 AM
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Re: Zuk axles are CRAP!

Oh-oh!

There is a SUPER EASY way to get the drums off.

I can't remember how I discovered this, but REALLY works
FAST!

Apply WD-40 (or similar rust loosener product) liberally at center of the hub around where the drum fits.

You see those two threaded the face of the drum? Find a couple of really tough grade metric bolts (10 or 12 mm - I fergit) for those holes. Start cranking them in at an even rate. They'll hit the steel flange on the axle end. Keep turning at an even rate on both sides until "POP", the drum comes off in your lap or "Crack", the bolt was not tough enough.

I only mention the snapping of the bolt 'cause i have broken numerous bolts around my Samurai but not that one in particular -- yet.

Acker

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