I got my 4.16 gears in the mail the other day so over the weekend I started pulling stuff off the sammy. I noticed a small oil leak coming from the rear diff right where the driveshaft bolts to. I know there is an oil seal or something in there. Do I have to remove the whole diff to get to it or can I just remove the mounting flange to replace it (if it really is just the oil seal)? I attached a pic of the leak...

Attached Images

File Type: jpg

28-464524-oil2.jpg (12.0 KB, 1 views)

I've been through this, so let me explain my experience. My rear diff pinion seal was leaking just like yours. I ordered the parts to repair it(crush sleeve,pinion seal and pinion nut. I was told the diff would have to be pulled to insure the setup on the 3rd member was retained. The mechanic that fixed it said replaced the seal and tightened the nut by "feel". Well, it lasted about 8 months before it puked a pinion bearing. Jbird----If you read this please explain how the diff felt to you when we removed it. IMO I would pull the 3rd member and have a competent mechanic change the required parts and put it back together. You should also replace the wheel bearing and oil seals while you're there.

I'm not an expert on 3rd members but I agree. Pull the 3rd member and take it to someone with experience. Have them replace the seal and crush sleeve. If you have never replaced the rear wheel bearings, then do them while everything is apart.

If you install the seal and crush sleeve wrong it will cost you a lot more time and money down the road.

[img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/cool.gif[/img][email protected]
http://www.geocities.com/jbird88_5/index.html

You guys are making this way too complicated.

Pull the driveshaft flange off of the pinion. Pull the old oil seal out. Install a new seal. Replace driveshaft flange. Tighten to spec.

It takes ALOT of force to crush a crush sleeve in. If you tighten the pinion nut down judiciously to spec... basically a slight amount of resistance at rotation, you shouldn't have to fiddle with pulling bearings, or changing crush sleeves.


http:// www.rocky-road.com

fellers, im agree with glenn on this. last one i did, i marked the nut before i ever took it off, used a sharp dam chisel to put just a lil spot in the nut n threads. took it off, replaced the seal n put the nut back where it was when i took it off. never had a problem out of it. thats a easier way to do it """"UNLESS""" you want to dissassemble it n check everything, or you already know it needs other parts in it.
just my opinion.
BiLLy bOb



Do unto others as you want done to you!
If you pack it in, pack it out!

I agree with BB and Glenn. I don't pull the third member just to replace the pinion seal. A little trick I've used to get out stubborn seals that don't want to come out is to use a small dent puller/slide hammer with a very small screw bit. 2 more cents.

Scott Whitmore
"It's not that it's able to do the job. It's that it does the job so well"

What makes this BBS a success is that everyone posts their own opinion according to their own experiences.

I've personally seen (and heard) a bad pinion bearing because the mechanic changed the seal and obviously over tightened the flange nut.

All I'm saying is, if he's never done this before it's probably better to pull the 3rd member and take it to a trained professional to have the seal replaced.


[img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/cool.gif[/img][email protected]
http://www.geocities.com/jbird88_5/index.html