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post #1 of (permalink) Old 05-29-2001, 09:53 AM
**DONOTDELETE**
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Oil leak from the oil pan!

Took advantage of the long weekend to try and solve the leak from the lower half of the motor. Removed the pan, scraped the old sealant off and installed a new gasket on the oil pan. Tightened everything down and ran it for about 10 min. without leaks. Yeah it's fixed right? Nosir. On my way to work today I watched the oil pressure drop to about 45 psi(while traveling at 65mph in 5th @4K) and then idle just below 20 psi. I know the pressure will drop when the motor gets hot- but not this much. And sure enough, there was new oil on the steering components. So where did I go wrong?
My thoughts- I did not apply sealant to the block side, only the pan side, and then sandwiched the cork gasket between it- could that be it? Should I reapply a second layer of sealant between gasket and block? What type would you recommend?
Also- I noticed at the front of the pan, just below the timing belt cover, there is a rubber type of gasket that seemed like it was not sealing. What is this "gasket" for? I thought it was just to prevent blow by oil,dirt and dust getting into the engine(kinda like the lower bell housing cover). It seems like the leak is somewhere in the front of the pan or maybe in this mysterious area- Anyone else have leaks from here? Whats involved in fixing this? I'm in a pickle as the zook is now the daily driver and I dont want to be blowing oil like the Exxon Valdez. Any advice is greatly appreciated
TIA,
db

dbenj
88.5 zook, mini mudders, 2"shackles,Thorley Header,K&N,Pony Carb,GM Alt,custom ski bumper,yankee off road hood latches.
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 05-29-2001, 10:56 AM
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Re: Oil leak from the oil pan!

It sounds like it your front main seal. Its behind the timing belt cover. Specs for Oil pressure are like 30psi @
3000rpm. at idle it will be lower. (A bypass is supposed to open above 30 I belive,) That said mine runs around 35-40
most of the time. when hot the idle pressure is 25..

Glenn
87' Zook Spoa,M/L 33's, 4.16 tcase,4.62 gears Camo,Header,2"exhuast, Cam.
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post #3 of (permalink) Old 05-29-2001, 11:44 AM
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Re: Oil leak from the oil pan!

Hi Glenn,
thanks for the quick response- i was hoping to hear from you as your rig is standard to measure by(i.e. not a drop leaking!). So whats involved in changing the front main seal? Is it as easy as removing the plastic cover? That would be cool if it was, but somehow Im guessing its a bit more involved...
TIA,
db

dbenj
88.5 zook, mini mudders, 2"shackles,Thorley Header,K&N,Pony Carb,GM Alt,custom ski bumper,yankee off road hood latches.
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post #4 of (permalink) Old 05-29-2001, 11:56 AM
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Re: Oil leak from the oil pan!

The parts only cost a few bucks. Its best to swap the timing belt while you are there if it hasn't been done.
You need to yake the rad, and then unbolt the lower pully
and undo the crank bolt(This is the only hard part. Takes alot of ommph to get it off sometimes.) then take off the cover and timing belt and pop the seal out and insert the new one and reassemble. Took me about 2 hours last time I did one on my nephews rig. Clean the engine off well and make sure it is leaking from there first.

Glenn
87' Zook Spoa,M/L 33's, 4.16 tcase,4.62 gears Camo,Header,2"exhuast, Cam.
Lockers, 8klb winch, -Wildweasel2 NE4WI- club http://www.cs.umass.edu/~glenn/personal.html
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post #5 of (permalink) Old 05-29-2001, 10:58 PM
 
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Re: Oil leak from the oil pan!

i agree with wildweasel except i never pull the radiator
at all--oldzuki

88 spoa samurai/weber/isky
97 sidekick sport
those that can samurai those that can't ?
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post #6 of (permalink) Old 05-29-2001, 11:22 PM
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Re: Oil leak from the oil pan!

WW has it pretty much on the nose. Just to add to the info pool... the best stuff I have ever used on an oil pan gasket was The Right Stuff by Permatex. Its expensive, but it is absolutely the best gasket maker on the market that I have encountered. I used ONLY The Right Stuff when I did the job. When it came time to remove the oil pan to fix a bearing problem, that stuff stuck the pan on so well, I had to pretty much bend it a bit to get it off! Not that that is a good thing, but that tells you what kind of sealing and staying power it had.

If you use a gasket AND a gasket maker or silicone sealent TOGETHER, use the silicone sparingly. What I do is dab some on the gasket and spread it out as far as it will go. A nice thin layer. You dont wan to over do it.

Also, WW mentioned replacing the lower main oil seal, because this is probably your problem. Go ahead and replace the came seal that is in the cylinder head. If one is gone, the other is most likely brittle and ready to go soon. Knock them both out as possible problem areas in the future, and you will feel just that much more assured.

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