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post #1 of (permalink) Old 05-29-2001, 08:39 AM Thread Starter
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Modified Front Drive Shaft

I have been having problems with vibrations from my front driveshaft because of severe U-joint angles and was considering switching to a Toyota driveshaft. After looking at a Toyota driveshaft I was wondering if anyone has ever modified a Samurai driveshaft to have double U-joints like the Toyota.

I was thinking of taking the ends off of a spare Samurai driveshaft, machining the small raised section off so that they can be mated together. Bolting the to flanges together and then welding them. Attached is a crude picture of what I would end up with. Does anyone think this would work?

Tim Martin
87' Samurai/1.6L/dual 40mm Mikunis/header/2" exhaust/MSD 6AL/5.5" SPOA/1" shackle lift/CJ-5/Sami springs/31" High-Tecs/roll cage, bumpers & pumpkin caps in progress...
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 05-29-2001, 09:32 AM
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Re: Modified Front Drive Shaft

I'd make sure to have it spin-balanced afterwards.

An easy setup I've tried before is to use a birfield set from a Subaru as the CV joint on the driveshaft. It worked okay, but I ended up going a long-slip unit Tom Woods built for me.

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post #3 of (permalink) Old 05-29-2001, 09:53 AM
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Re: Modified Front Drive Shaft

Double cardens have an additional joint in the middle,
It is a ball joint positioning Joint for lack of a better
term. I don't know if you could get away without this or not. I could take a picture if needed. Its too hard to explain without pictures. I have seen a double carden
driveshaft up front, There are clearance issuse with the
cross member. I am currently running a toyota Double carden
as my rear drive shaft, I love it.

Glenn
87' Zook Spoa,M/L 33's, 4.16 tcase,4.62 gears Camo,Header,2"exhuast, Cam.
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post #4 of (permalink) Old 05-29-2001, 10:37 AM
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Re: Modified Front Drive Shaft

I think that you are right WW there would have to be that center pin that a Double Carden has or it will not stay centered ann run straight like when you put two u-joints too close together on a steering shaft then you have to build a support brace up to the shaft to keep it from swinging in a big elliptical arc you know what I mean?

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post #5 of (permalink) Old 05-29-2001, 10:55 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Modified Front Drive Shaft

I understand what you are talking about it swinging in an arc. Attached here is a picture of a Toyota driveshaft (from the iZook technical section) that I was trying to duplicate with this Samurai unit. Do you have to use a intermediate yoke type assembley to support the Toyota drive shaft too? I have a local shop that does drive shaft work on semi's and he said that he can not balance a double carden driveshaft.

Tim Martin
87' Samurai/1.6L/dual 40mm Mikunis/header/2" exhaust/MSD 6AL/5.5" SPOA/1" shackle lift/CJ-5/Sami springs/31" High-Tecs/roll cage, bumpers & pumpkin caps in progress...
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post #6 of (permalink) Old 05-29-2001, 10:59 AM
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Re: Modified Front Drive Shaft

The part we are talking about is in the center of the 2 u-joints. The toyota drive shaft just bolts up to the flanges.. (After you make adapters that is.)
One thing I didn't mention is have you checked to make sure your tranfer case mounts arn't bent? I know you have been
hitting the gas hard, so you may have bent them esp if not
beefed up.

Glenn
87' Zook Spoa,M/L 33's, 4.16 tcase,4.62 gears Camo,Header,2"exhuast, Cam.
Lockers, 8klb winch, -Wildweasel2 NE4WI- club http://www.cs.umass.edu/~glenn/personal.html
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post #7 of (permalink) Old 05-29-2001, 11:15 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Modified Front Drive Shaft

I checked the t-case mounts and they are okay. I have a 1" drive shaft spacer in the front. I have been thinking of ditching rhe spacer and going with extended slip yokes to see if that help. That would lessen my driveshaft angle and eliminate the need for the spacer. I know the picture I put up was kind of crude, but I was going to make the center of the 2 U-joints section using two samurai flanges. What keeps a Toyota drive shaft from spinning off center with the double U-joints?

Tim Martin
87' Samurai/1.6L/dual 40mm Mikunis/header/2" exhaust/MSD 6AL/5.5" SPOA/1" shackle lift/CJ-5/Sami springs/31" High-Tecs/roll cage, bumpers & pumpkin caps in progress...
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post #8 of (permalink) Old 05-29-2001, 11:20 AM
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Re: Modified Front Drive Shaft

IZOOK.COM HAS A TECH ARTICLE ABOUT USING THE WHOLE TOY DRIVESHAFT. MY UNDERSTANDING IS THAT YOU JUST RE-DRILL THE FLANGES TO THE PROPER PATTERN BY CLOCKING THE FLANGE 90 DEGREES AND SOME MINOR GRINDING AND BOLT IT UP.

post #9 of (permalink) Old 05-29-2001, 01:40 PM
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Re: Modified Front Drive Shaft

I will try to explain it a little better. from the flange end there is a u-joint then a metal hoop that extends around the top of the u to the center where it ends in a post. this post fits into a ball joint on the next u-joints
top hoop,this combination is what keeps them centered.
and there is a big metal ring around the whole thing so it is hard to see and take pics of.
I really need to post a pic. You do have the spacer on the
diff not the t-case right? Extended Yokes do help.
the yota driveshaft is a bolt on with adapters and after you have it shortend. You need spacers on both ends.so the pinion nut clears the flange on the Yota.

Glenn
87' Zook Spoa,M/L 33's, 4.16 tcase,4.62 gears Camo,Header,2"exhuast, Cam.
Lockers, 8klb winch, -Wildweasel2 NE4WI- club http://www.cs.umass.edu/~glenn/personal.html
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post #10 of (permalink) Old 05-29-2001, 05:01 PM
 
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Re: Modified Front Drive Shaft

I thought about that before, asked some people and they said you cant do it becuase you need the joint in the middle so the u-joint angles are equal or somthing.. Maybe worth a try though.

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