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post #1 of (permalink) Old 05-03-2001, 04:30 PM Thread Starter
 
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What\'s needed for basic SPOA?

I have an '87 Sammi Hardtop, and I want to SPOA it, but am really interested in doing the conversion to YJ springs. I don't want to spend a load of cash on stuff I can't use when I put YJ springs in it (I want some ride improvements, plus a few inches of lift). I am not too interested in running anything over a 31x10.50 tire, but want to smooth out my ride. Also, will I need something to level out the ride since I have a hardtop? Thanks

jason

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post #2 of (permalink) Old 05-03-2001, 04:33 PM Thread Starter
 
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Re: What\'s needed for basic SPOA?

Sorry, forgot to add that I need shocks right now, but don't want to buy them until I do the SPOA. But, if it gets behind schedule, what red ryder shock part numbers match 11.5" compressed 19" extended front and 13" compressed 20" extended rear. BTW, I am running a 2" shackle lift right now (No, I didn't put it on, I bought it like that). Thanks again...

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post #3 of (permalink) Old 05-03-2001, 04:40 PM
 
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Re: What\'s needed for basic SPOA?

First things first, do you want both the YJ and the spoa? One thing you want to do is plan your lift so you use what you already have, that way you aren't wasting money.
Now, the YJ kit spua will give you about 4 - 4 1/2" of lift enough to clear 31's at the same time a spoa will definately clear 31's. from what I've heard you are going to get a nicer ride either way. The YJ kit in it's entirety (<sp) will run you about $1500 unless you make your own (which is what I'm doing), but you can do an spoa lift pretty inexpensively. either way you go you will need... steering correction (z-link or drop pitman), longer brake line, longer shocks, drive-line extensions (or new shafts if you decide YJ kit), and most likely new shock mounts.
With spoa you will also need perches, u-bolts, and I think that's about it. For the YJ springs you also need perches (YJ springs are wider that stock sami springs) and new mounts to accomodate width and length. If I'm forgetting anything, I'm sure someone else will chime in.
If you only just recently got your sami I would recommend wheeling with it stock for awhile and decide what you want to do from there. I'm glad I did, because my whole setup changed.
Good luck,
Steve

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post #4 of (permalink) Old 05-03-2001, 05:15 PM
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Re: What\'s needed for basic SPOA?

The bare minimum we feel to do an SPOA is spring pads and brake lines.

-Make sure the spring pads you use are GUSSETED. Spring pads that are just a folded piece of metal are dangerous in automotive applications. Gussets are a MUST!

-For brake lines, make sure you get lines at least 7" over stock. Otherwise, you'll just have to buy more when you go to the YJ setup later. Avoid stainless lines on the market for Samurais. In addition to their other drawbacks.... they are only 3-4" over stock and would be to short for the direction you are heading.

After the bare minimums, you'll probably start wanting some steering correction before too long.

Then shock mounts since SPOAs are all about great flex and limiting the setup with shorty shocks just doesn't make sense.

From there, the list goes on... tires, gears, etc, you think it ends one day, but it never does....


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post #5 of (permalink) Old 05-03-2001, 07:41 PM
 
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Re: What\'s needed for basic SPOA?

From a previous post:

-Make sure the spring pads you use are GUSSETED. Spring pads that are just a folded piece of metal are dangerous in automotive applications. Gussets are a MUST!

Geez, here we go again. Oh please inform the uninformed just why this is so.

Is a 1/4" wall piece of machined tube steel a "folded piece of metal"? If you are speaking of the "Confer" or a "trailer perch", then say so, and we will likely agree. If you are making a statement in regards to the Breeze perch, then say so. If you are, then I have a big issue with your statement. There are far more vehicles running around in Canada with the Breeze perch on them than all others combined, and never a failure, and they have been on the market for a very long time, so they are a "tried and true" product.

Vague statements aimed at other products is not the way to win friends and influence people, or garner customer loyalty. Informative statements with clear consise information is the correct way to pass on information to the general public. So if someone is going to make a statement that something is "bad", then state the reasons why.

I am not and have not ever made a comment that the RRO perch is a bad product. It is well made for what it is, but is it the only safe way to do a SOPA, NO it is not, but some may be trying to lead the general consumer to believe otherwise.

Now, to answer the original question, with a 4.5" SPOA, you can get by reusing your old U-Bolts if they will come off (no rust damage). I don't suggest anyone reuses U-bolts due to their importance, and the fact that they tend to stretch more and relax once they have been previously stressed. With a 5.5, you certainly need a set of HD U-Bolts as the stock ones are just borderline in length, and you really need the thicker cross section. DS spacers and brake lines must be addressed as well. Yes, one can reuse the stock clamp plates, and flip them side to side and reuse the stock shocks, however this really defeats the purpose of trying to get more flex. We offer the basic SPOA in either 4.5 or 5.5 with DS spacers, new HD U-Bolts, four lower shock pins, and the four spring perch for $169.95. I will knock off for the lower shock pins if someone doesn't want them for now, but they cost more to add them in later once you decide to add the longer shocks. We offer sensibly priced products that are proven in years of service, and if our directions are followed, a trouble free system that provides a great suspension for far less than anything on the market.

TGT - NCO

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post #6 of (permalink) Old 05-03-2001, 09:00 PM
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Re: What\'s needed for basic SPOA?

I've never seen a Breeze perch, but any spring perch that is not gusseted is dangerous in my opinion. The lateral forces exerted onto the front axle in highway cornering can collapse even thick walled 'channeling' if it is not gusseted..... especially if 'preloaded' with a torqued down Ubolt. If its an ungusseted spring pad, I'd NEVER put myself or my family in the vehicle.

If the Breeze pads are ungusseted, you should contact them to change the design for the safety of their customer. We're also talking about some serious liability for their company and possibly yours as well. Man, this is serious business here....

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post #7 of (permalink) Old 05-03-2001, 09:19 PM
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Re: What\'s needed for basic SPOA?

As a postscript, I have taken this discussion off list with Tim from NCO. I have the utmost respect for Tim and we both have our own opinions on this matter. My post was originally meant to warn in regards to the perches you find at trailer shops.

Check your personal email Tim :^)

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post #8 of (permalink) Old 05-03-2001, 09:45 PM
 
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Re: What\'s needed for basic SPOA?

Hopefully this can get discussed off this list. I will have my structural engineers at the Nuke plant run some numbers and see what they come up with. They like to play outside the box from time to time. We are in full agreement with the "trailer" perch, they should never be used. The IBC which is the Canadian national insurance company uses Gestapo style tactics and runs every car through a 2 - 3 hour inspection process. The Breeze products have never been questioned or rejected, and as mentioned there has never been a failure, and the IBC investigates every single accident whether on or off road, and they contact everyone who has touched that vehicle to try to lay blame so they don't have to pay. A Samurai cannot create enough lateral force to ever deform a Breeze perch. The auto manufacturers install far less substantial material every day on millions of vehicles, and we all know how liability goofy they are. I was just reading a local article the other day about how the wrangler is going to be eliminated in a few years due to ever increasing safety regulations and liability concerns. Pretty soon all that will be left is the gutless 4x4 wannabes that don't even have a low range in the T-Case if they even have a T-Case.

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post #9 of (permalink) Old 05-03-2001, 11:38 PM
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Re: What\'s needed for basic SPOA?

I doo agree. Granted if you use cast iron, they are going to shatter, or some real soft metal will bend. Is there a metalurgist in the group? Sorta like the titanic was very brittle steel. Does anyone know what kind of steel they use and is there a grade for them?? I think mine is about 1/4" steel no gussets stock, but I welded a single 2" plate on the back end of the rear spoa and used bolts on the front..

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post #10 of (permalink) Old 05-04-2001, 03:22 AM Thread Starter
 
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Re: What\'s needed for basic SPOA?

Good information all around, I will take all into consideration before deciding where to go now with my Sammi. Thanks for all the input.

jason

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