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post #1 of (permalink) Old 02-02-2001, 07:00 PM
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pinion bearings

ok someone out there tell me how to put these in lol i hope yall can and should i change the outer and inter bearing ?
should i buy that sleeve they wanted me to buy ?
please help me get this thing so i can mud ride

Flaming Zuki
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 02-02-2001, 10:07 PM
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Re: pinion bearings

I'll do the best I can. First, get a backlash reading with a dial indicator before removing the ring gear/support case. Mark the caps so you can put them back where they belong. Once the RG is out, remove the pinion nut and pull the flange, with a puller if necessary. Drive the pinion out with a rubber or plastic dead blow hammer.Pull the bearing cones from the support case and the inner pinion with clam shell puller. Now there should be a pinion depth shim either under the inner pinion cone or under the inner pinion cup. SAVE THIS SHIM!!! Clean every thing in solvent and dry with compressed air. This will get rid of any contaminants and give a dry surface that will not attract grit plus make it all nice to work with. The inner and outer bearing cups should have already been removed, sorry. Press the new bearing cones on the support case and the inner pinion not forgetting to use the pinion depth shim here. Now drive in the pinion bearing cups. I use white lithium grease on the pinion bearing cups. Install the pinion with a new crush sleeve then the outer bearing then the seal then the flange yoke and the washer and nut. Now this is where it gets funky. I'm sure the manual gives a torque value to which to set up the pinion but I just tighten the nut crushing the sleeve (this sets the prelode on the pinion bearings) until the flange has a SLIGHT resistance when turned. NOTE: You are working with small bearings here and can easily overtighten them causing them to fail and ruin the gearset. You are basically looking to remove all of the slack from the bearings and put a little preload on them so they can't be moving around after you've set everything up. The rest is easy. Just set the ring gear assembly back in the case and set the backlash back like it was. I put a little red loctite around the cup bores and on the cap retainer bolts. The same principle and cautions apply when preloading the side bearings ie. get out all the slack and get 3 or 4 notches of preload. Check backlash again when everything is bolted down tight and install locking tabs with loctite on bolt threads. The factory backlash for a new gearset is .004" to .006". A used set may be a little looser but should be put back like it came out to lessen the chance of being noisy. I like to run a regular GL-5 gear oil for the first couple thousand miles then change to synthetic after the bearings have flashed and the gear surfaces have worn into thier possibly new positions. If you have one bearing go bad, change them all and clean the housing spic and span to remove any metal particles that will damage your new shiny bearings. Now go to work. clyde

88 Sam 4.16t/c,lockrite rear,225-75's on stock wheels, 4.5 spoa
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