This little bolt is for keeping the load off your accelerator cable. I'd rather advice you to adjust it, so your butterfly in the carb fully opens. If you remove it,
you might end up with a broken accelerator cable in the middle of nowhere.
i was thinking about this little thing at the back of the peadal. I was going to remove since i just got a new cable [img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif[/img] Mayb it can handle it a little? What else might get "hurt" in the process of doing this. 10mph sounds like a world of difference hehe.
If your throttle is not opening all the way when your pedal is fully depressed then the two nuts on the throttle linkage bracket near the carb just need to be adjusted so it will open fully. There's no need to remove the throttle pedal stop bolt... it is there to adjust the free play in the pedal.
You wanna real kick in the pants?? take a vac line from the carb and run it to the vacume operated diaphragm for the secondary, then run a hose from that vac line to the connection to the cooling system. I say this because you have 1 to the dizzy (dont mess with it) 1 to the cooling or EC gear and 1 to the charcoal cannister, it's your pick but i'd choose the EC/cooling hose. The effect is to get the secondary opening up way eariler kinda comes on with a bang! And it shouldn't hurt much more than the milage, as it's sucking more, but the vacume is generated in the carb not the manifold, it tried hookups from the manifold but they had too much suction and kept the secondary open at idle so it was a throaty 2k rpm idle, not good. Try that for more kick from the zook it'll feel like supercharging