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post #1 of (permalink) Old 11-23-2000, 07:18 AM Thread Starter
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Changing U-Joints...

After replacing some of the u-joints in my Sami's, I've been wanting a hydraulic press to speed the remove/replace along. Found a small 6 ton unit for $59.95 from Northern Tool. While surfing the web, I came across a company (U-Joint Tool Co. www.ujointtool.com) that manufactures a tool specifically for u-joint removal/replacement. It looks to be well made and portable as is not the case with the press. However, for this luxory, there is a price to be paid. A heft $299! That is a lot of wood! I also found a write up on it in Four Wheeler (January 2001).
I was wondering what folks have found to be the easiest method of changing them out. When I replaced mine, I coated the bearing cap/yoke surfaces with anti-sieze compound to help facillitate removal in the future.
FYI... I used Napeaco u-joints as they are the only ones locally availabe that are greaseable. I purchased them at PEP Boys and, get this....they are guaranteed for life. Not too shabby, but that does little good if it grenades in the boonies. Just thought I would share this and hope it might help someone out.....

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post #2 of (permalink) Old 11-23-2000, 08:12 AM
 
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Re: Changing U-Joints...

Another source for a portable tool - nice to have with you in the middle of nowhere - is http://www.tigertool.com
$210 is still hefty, but like you said, portable! Haven't tried it, but its on my xmas list.

jw

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post #3 of (permalink) Old 11-23-2000, 09:30 AM
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Re: Changing U-Joints...

I used one of those ujoint tools one time and they are slick. Too much for me though. I just keep a hammer and sockets on hand for ujoint changing.

On a side note, those Neapco ujoints you are using are the worst I've ever used. I've changed a good 40-50 ujoints on mine and other rigs over the years and those Neapco ones seem to hold up the least. If you can find GMB locally, that's what I'd recommend going with.

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post #4 of (permalink) Old 11-23-2000, 10:57 AM
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Re: Changing U-Joints...

something that I tried after two days of beating was to put the joint in a vise using the usual socket method. only after you put a signifacant amount of pressure on the joint and socket take a hammer and punch and rap the casing back from the bearing this will equalize the bind on the old bearing and pop it loose dont beat on it and bend the drive shaft , just tap it to equalize the pressure they bind at the narrowest point. hope this makes sense

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post #5 of (permalink) Old 11-23-2000, 01:30 PM
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Re: Changing U-Joints...

Humm I'd check that Tiger site it seems that you can get the puller alone and installer later if you want. That would be nice. $135/95 at a time for something you want ant too bad...but I have my priorites! Say anyone out there hav e a baby rocklobster case? AKA a transfer case from a 84/85 suzuki? I need one.
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post #6 of (permalink) Old 11-23-2000, 02:32 PM
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Re: Changing U-Joints...

i have used every type of press i can get my hands on and i have not found one to be better than a vise on a zuk. i have had a bad problem with the presses flexing the u joint cradel and bending it a little. what i have resorted to is to put the u joint in about 3/4 of the way in a vise or arbor press and sending it home with a hammer. the seem to stay loser, i have had many get to tight when i press them all the way in. i have also built spacers to fit and support the cradel when pressing out stubborn ones. because you can watch them flex when you have one in the press. just my two cents mike

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post #7 of (permalink) Old 11-24-2000, 12:35 AM
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Re: Changing U-Joints...

I agree. I have seen many a yoke bent with a press, too much pressure and not enough "feel". I use a socket as well, and a BFH. You can also get those U-joint removal kits locally for about $125, look around, I know VIP and Brake Service up here carry them. They'll also do Ball Joints, if you have a vehicle or axle that uses them.

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post #8 of (permalink) Old 11-24-2000, 12:02 PM
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Re: Changing U-Joints...

glen,do you have a part # for those u-joints.i too installed some auto zone u-joints,and they lasted 30 mins at the BADLANDS,IN.

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post #9 of (permalink) Old 11-24-2000, 10:30 PM
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Re: Changing U-Joints...

30 minutes!! you must have gotten a good one Rick My first auto-zone ujoint broke in half the first 5 minutes I was locked in. I haven't had any problems with the other three. There're running on three months now.

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post #10 of (permalink) Old 11-25-2000, 12:05 AM
 
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Re: Changing U-Joints...

I guess the real question is, from all your experience have you come to terms that this is the best u joint for the almighty dollar? Can they be ordered from pep boys or something like napa? Thanks for the reply, we all want to know this one. I am tired of u joints being a weak link. Does spicer make one for sammis? Max

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