Disc Brake Conversion Tips. - Off-Road Forums & Discussion Groups
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post #1 of (permalink) Old 09-24-2000, 10:04 PM
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Disc Brake Conversion Tips.

Hey folks,

Well it's finally done. I have the Disc Brakes in (after many hours of pain in the ass s**t).

These are a few tips you might like to consider when doing the conversion:

1> It easier to have the entire axle removed from the car. Don't bother removing the drive shaft, it'll split into two bits. This saves bumping your head, working out in the weather (it was wet and my garage was full of car parts, so the car was on the drive) and it's easier to get into everything.

2> Having problems removing the brake lines due to the soft nature of the metal connection?


3> Having problems getting the drum off the spigot?

Stand the entire axle upright on one wheel and spray with a penetrant, let it soak for an hour or so.

Remove the axle completely from the housing (the entire brake assembly will still be attached to the end) then on a piece of old carpet hit the drum in such a way that it will pop off the spigot (be sure to hit all around the drum so it comes off cleanly).

4> Can't afford to have the bearings pulled in order to get the backing plate off? don't have a saw zill to cut the backing plate off? you won't need anything from your old drum brakes.

Use a hack saw. It takes a while but it works. Just put a rag over the bearing so no metal filings get in there.

5> When mounting the wheel studs into the zinc coated plate are they spinning?

Well everyone I have spoken to, including myself, has had this problem. Go get them tac welded onto the plate. LOCK TIGHT DOESN'T WORK AND DO NOT USE A STICK WELDER. Get a qualified professional to determine the best way of doing it. The STICK WELD won't hold under the pressure of a rattle gun or sometimes your own strength with the tyre iron, this is because of the zinc coating.

hopefully this has helped you all out. I strongly suggest doing the brake bias conversion at the same time. I went to test it out straight away and the difference on a dry road is incredible. I stop on a dime.

However, in the wet, dirt or mud etc etc the back end locked up. I will be doing a bias control conversion soon and will post any pain the ass moments to the board, in the hope that I save you all some time.

ps: in australia you need to have this kit complianced, but if you can't afford it straight away that's NO PROBLEM. I have been pulled up by the transport department and asked "what's the shiny billeted metal thingy under there, sonny jim?" I replied "brakes". The transport guy was a little pissed that I was smart with him but he had no idea if it was legal or not, nor did he fully understand that it wasn't stock. *giggle*

If you want more info I'll do what I can pics coming as soon as the beast gets new paint. don't want to show her off until she's looking good.

'85 SuziSkip
1.6 22R off it's rocker
"If it's too hard or you're a pussy, give me a go at it"
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