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post #1 of (permalink) Old 09-13-2000, 07:01 AM Thread Starter
 
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SPOA - my springs keep going bad

Hi there,

I went spoa a couple of weeks ago and now my leaves are terribly wasted (1 day of moderate wheeling).

I put in some add-a leaves and went wheeling another day (very moderate wheeling due to lots of snow) and guess what .... my leaves are wasted again.

The problem is that they go into negative arch!! and i keep ripping my 31" apart on the wheel well

what springs do you spoa guys run in your rigs? I'm inclined towards the RRO ranchos as they should hold up the best.

any opinions, any other trix? whgat about CJ springs....

any ideas.... please keep em coming.... i am kind of desparate!

thanks
Alfred, CHILE



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post #2 of (permalink) Old 09-13-2000, 08:11 AM
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Re: SPOA - my springs keep going bad

hi alfred,i doing my spoa now.i asked the board for help and this is what i did.i got my perches from north coast off road.they are 6" long.this gives you a good base.i bought some 7 leaf cj springs and took apart.i took the bottom 2 leafs added to my sami rear springs and put them up front.the remaining 5 leafs off the cj will go to the rear.if i have wrap i will add a device to limit the axle wrap.i hope this helps ,ranger rick

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post #3 of (permalink) Old 09-13-2000, 08:33 AM
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Re: SPOA - my springs keep going bad

Well the fronts are near negitive arch anyway. once SPOA they go that way. For the rears the big problem I
have is Spring wrap, (My springs are now somewhat S shaped.) I am going to CJ springs in the rear soon
with a traction bar and getting ahold of another set of rears for the front and adding a panhard bar.
going to the longer springs also improves the ride, but you either need to relocate the mounts for the
shackles or add missing link type devices. Also depending on the spring you may need to redrill the
spring perch holes so the axle only moves 1" not 2" (2" is really too much to move the rear axle, the tire will
then hit the rear of the fender well.) I have heard of people using toyota car springs in the back also.
the big thing with Spoa is that if you wheel hard, then you will wrap the rear springs unless you control
it somehow.

Glenn Loud
87' Zuke Spoa, 31's, 4.16 tcase, Camo,Header,2"exhuast, Cam.
Locked both ends, 8klb winch, Snorkel -Wildweasel2
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post #4 of (permalink) Old 09-13-2000, 08:34 AM
 
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Re: SPOA - my springs keep going bad

You must be doing something wrong. The standard SPOA is to use stock ZUK springs, which have no arch to them at all, generally flat. Did you put a bigger engine in? I am running a ML with CJ springs in the rear, and stock rear ZUK springs up front with a couple leafs added from the old fronts which levels out the vehicle. From what I have seen of the ranchos they are a very stiff spring with a big arch, but they have zero flex and offer a really really hard ride.

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post #5 of (permalink) Old 09-13-2000, 09:05 AM
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Re: SPOA - my springs keep going bad


One trick you can try for spring wrap is to flip the overload leaf upsidedown. Basically it will cup upward. Its a beefy tough spring and helps minimize wrapping.

Sometimes a bumpstop on the gas pedal can help too :^)


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post #6 of (permalink) Old 09-13-2000, 09:24 AM
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Re: SPOA - my springs keep going bad

i run a spring over on my jeep and axle wrap was a problem. i run with quite a few suzukis and the spoa one have axle wrap even with the cj springs. the best solution i have found is the sam's offroad traction bar set up. i don't know the web address but you can look up sams offroad and see what i am talking about. i din't want to fork over $295 to sam so i made my own. it is built like a ladder bar but the forward connection is hooked to a shackle instead of a hard mount. the shackle allows your suspention to work normally with no binding yet still doesn't allow axle wrap. just an idea you might look into. i have tried all different setups on my jeep and this one works the best. just go to sam's offroad website and give her a peak.

brian wilson
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stretched to 100" wb
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post #7 of (permalink) Old 09-13-2000, 09:41 AM
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Re: SPOA - my springs keep going bad

can you post some pics of your setup?

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post #8 of (permalink) Old 09-13-2000, 09:59 AM
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Re: SPOA - my springs keep going bad

I am using the Rancho springs with a SPOA lift, and as Rocky_Road stated
I flip the rear overload spring over so that it has a postive arch and that works great. The Sami springs are pretty flat to begin with.
The other thing to check is in the wheelwells, there is metal flange that
sticks out can cut the tire pretty badly. I took a hammer and flattended
them, so they didn't stick out anymore, no more cut tires here.
Wayne

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post #9 of (permalink) Old 09-13-2000, 07:39 PM Thread Starter
 
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Re: SPOA - my springs keep going bad

ok, here is my update...

the big problem with the front leaves going flat is that as soon as you stuff them up, the spring gets shorter (eye to eye) and the shackle moves back, the axle moves back, and my 31" bfgMTs hit the rear fender wall (already masaged it).

Anyone els having this problem w/ 31"s on their spoa??? ... as long as there is positive arch, everything is ok, as the spring extends (eye to eye) and the axle moves slightly forward. Dont even have to go off-road to "touch base".

what other than stock springs are you guys using???

pls help

Alfred


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post #10 of (permalink) Old 09-14-2000, 08:25 AM
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Re: SPOA - my springs keep going bad

With my 31's I haven't even touched the wheel wells, And i have had it crossed up to the point where 2 wheels are off the ground. sounds like you may have a bad set of springs to begin with. Is yours a newer model sami that
has smaller wheelwells?

Glenn Loud
87' Zuke Spoa, 31's, 4.16 tcase, Camo,Header,2"exhuast, Cam.
Locked both ends, 8klb winch, Snorkel -Wildweasel2
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