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post #1 of (permalink) Old 08-03-2000, 03:40 PM
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Building a wicked suspension

So, I just got back from the Jeepers Jamboree last weekend with my Zuk, and I had a blast. I tore most Jeeps a new as_hole, but then I met my match. There was another Zuk drive there with an elliptical spring set up and it was awesome. He had a supercharger on his 1.3l engine, he had everything you would ever want. So, I came home depressed but with a goal in mind.
I have decided to build my own custom suspension and to do some modifications.
I am going to install a second T-case behind my 4.88 geared one. I plan on ripping out the stupid driveline between the tranny and the stock mounting of the t-case, and mounting both t-cases DIRECTLY to eachother's flanges and then DIRECTLY to the tranny. I do nothing but rockcrawling with it, so I do not believe I will encounter any high end torque to break either of the T-cases because She does not see speed in excess of 10 miles an hour so the use of U-joints is not needed.
The kewl thing in this instance, is that the length of the driveline between the tranny and the stock t-case is almost the same length as the stock t-case, so by removing that, I can get two t-cases in for the same width as the stock width with the driveline and the t-case, so I will not have to lengthen my drivelines. And I will be geared VERY low, and with much less cost than getting the KLUNE-V twin shifter.
Then next idea is to go ahead and build a suspension that is a modification of the Buggy leaf that so many toyota trucks and Jeeps run.
I will build a rail with a 3/4" gap out of 1/2 steel sqauer tubing. Then I will weld it to the frame above the rear axle. Then I will make a ball bearing slide to go in it, so it can slide forwards and backwards alog the rear part of the frame. Then I will make it so I can bolt the buggy leaf to it vs the frame and then bolt the buggy leaf to the stock leafspring as usual. Then I will make a shockmount on both the slide and on the frame, so the sliding of the rail-slide is dampened. Then I will do a 3link to the frame form the axle to keep the frame in stock camber to the axle.
So, when a tire drops, the buggy leaf buckles down and the inertia pulls the rail backwards along the frame and drops the buggy leaf even more and there fore you can get wicked drop. The advantage of this suspension over the elliptical suspension, is that although you do not get as much axle articulation, you DO get good articulation over both standard coil spring setups and leaf springs suspensions, but you do not sacrifice your street driving because you can pin the rail so it cannot slide back any farther. And with limitiing strpa s you can drive the thing on the street with minimal body roll. Then, when you take it out in sandy and dune covered beaches, you can take very high jumps because when you are in mid air, the rail slide back and lets the axle drop. The impact compresses the stock leaf spring, then compress the bugg leaf, which slide the rail -slide down the rail back towards the front of the rail and this is dampenend by the shock (and overload coil spring that I will put over the shock).

If you have any ideas, please add to this as I am already building it now and would love to hear any ideas you may have.

-Mike Egli
icplanet.com
Work=415-444-7171
cell-707-318-6503

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RAGEx2 - Mike Egli
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Email- [email protected]
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1991 Suzuki Samarai
1995 Jeep Cherokee
1986 Ford Bronco II
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 08-03-2000, 05:22 PM
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Re: Building a wicked suspension

So are you going to let the rest of us know how the 2nd t-case install goes? ...what mods you have to make and everything.

post #3 of (permalink) Old 08-03-2000, 05:42 PM
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Re: Building a wicked suspension

Yes! That is actually why I mentioned it here, because I thouht a lot of you will be interested. As far as initial measurements look, I believe the second floor shifter will pop up where the eBrake is , so I am also going to replace my ebrake with an electric (hydraulic) racing setup since I think it will be cooler hitting a button!
The measurements seem to look like that if I replace the stock driveline & t-case with the two t-cases, I will be a bit over 1 inch longer, which pretty much keeps my rear driveline in usuable limits.The front driveline will have to be one inch longer, but that is still not bad.
As far as mounting, it looks like I will use some thick angle iron for the mounting as I can bolt it straight to the stock square tubing mount that it is on and bring it back from there to the frame where I can either weld it or bolt it on. THen droppping the other t-case on it, drilling a few holes and dropping bolts through to the t-case will be easy!
Let me also mention the fact that I have a GRS II with 4.56 axle gears and I want to be twice as low, cause I am still not low enough!!
My choice in setup is having a GRS II as the first t-case after the tranny and a stock t-case after it for the following reasons:

1) If I want to be pretty low, but still be able to go on a dirt or rock at a decent pace, you put you first t-case in 2wheel high and put your second t-case in 4-low.

2) If you want lower, you put the first t-case in 4-low and the second 4-low and now you are really low.

3) If you want a make shift 2 low, you put your first in 4 low and the second in two high.

I mean there are so many options. IF you want to make you suzuki into a lawnmower, you attach a blade to the front driveshaft flange of the front t-case, and then when you put that t-case into w-low/4-high you can mow your lawn!!






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RAGEx2 - Mike Egli
[email protected]
Office- 415-444-7171
Cellular- 707-318-6503
1991 Suzuki Samarai
1995 Jeep Cherokee
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post #4 of (permalink) Old 08-03-2000, 07:01 PM
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Re: Building a wicked suspension

I've thought about this before but since I have no spare x-fer case or a shop to do it, it's just a dream. But, since the sammi has offset diffs (and offset outputs on the case) wouldn't a conventional transfer case suit this better? I believe some Nissans had conventional divorced cases, and they shouldn't be to hard to find in a junk yard.

Troy
www.AbusiveMotorSports.com

post #5 of (permalink) Old 08-03-2000, 11:24 PM
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Re: Building a wicked suspension

i met two guys john/ralph at the zookimelt and they had dual transfer cases in their sami.if they see this they may share the secret.they are from ohio.

THANK GOD FOR VETERANS AND SUZUKIS-BOTH KEEP YOU FREE.
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post #6 of (permalink) Old 08-04-2000, 12:48 PM
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Re: Building a wicked suspension

Ok, let me recap upon my project, why I am doing it, and after tearing everything apart last night, give you a little bit more input on what will need to be done.
I am putting in a 2nd Samurai T-case because
1) They are cheap
2) The flanges mount up so I do not need to change them
3) The drivelines mount up so I do not need to change them
4) Because I trust Samurai parts, and I like staying with Samurai parts. If you don't trust Samurai, go buy a Jeep where every jeep has either Ford or Chevy parts in it (doesn't that tell you something?)

Stock Samurai T-cases are easy to get a hold of, and after visiting a few junkyards I found that it is easy to get ahold of a used t-case for under $250 and sometimes under $200 which is an awesome deal because it makes this conversion cheaper than actually buying replacement gears or the 'KLUNE-V' ultimate t-case. For those of you who want the lowest gears you can get, adding in two Transfer cases with reduced gears is WAY lower than the 'Klune-V' goes and you have as many options as a twin shifter(if not more).

What I wrote before was me being full of shi_. The adding of the second t-case is much more difficult than I originally planned on, but not that hard. You will need a torch, a good vise and grinder.
The driveshaft coming out of the transmission is a two piece shaft with a U-Joint in the middle and going to a flange that bolts to your stock t-case. The flange that bolts to the t-case is a u-joint fitting, so this is where the play begins. You first torch off the crossmemeber that holds the t-case and tranmission in place on the rear end. You take out both U-joints on the driveshaft which gives you three main parts, the initial shaft coming from the transmission, the middle shaft and the flange. You put a new u-joint in the shaft part that still comes out of the transmission, and put the flange on the end of it, in effect taking out the middle man. The flange is a little big in diameter( about a 1/4"), so you have to grind it down a bit to make it so that it can spin freely. Then you slide the transfer case up to it and bolt it in. The first thing that you will notice is that the slope from the body to the passenger side floor board is in the way, so if you cut a 8" x 8" hole there you can push the T-case up into it (later on you can get some steel to put around it and then weld it back on for a clean look.
Then you put the second t-case behind and bolt up the flanges. The second t-case will have to be put at a slightly more vertical angle (not to much so that stick lever can still go through the floor board.) than the stock one to keep the driveline angles close to the original. The interesting thing is that when you remove the middle driveshaft piece from the transmission, and do the rest of this conversion, your second t-case is virtually in the EXACT same position the original was, so you drivelines do NOT need to be extended.

Then you bolt the rear and front drivelines to it. Now with cutting a few notches out of the stock t-case and tranny mount, you can weld it back in place.
You will have to make a new mount for the second t-case, which I will use a piece of angle Iron or square tubing. I will bolt this to the stock t-case crossmember, and run it back to the frame cross section which will be welded on.
Obviously, the last thing you have to do is to pipe both shifters into the cab. You have to cut a 3"x4" hole in the rise slop of the floorboard right under the transmission shifter for the original t-case shifter to go through. The 2nd t-case will go through the original hole.
The entire process takes about 4 hours if you have the right tools.
The only thing to think about is that althoguh you have returned your drivlines to a better angle, they are now in a bit more exposed angle than before. Plus, you should make a good skidplate to protect BOTH of you assets under your rig.
I will post pix of the entire conversion in a week or so on my website and I will post the link here.



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RAGEx2 - Mike Egli
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1991 Suzuki Samarai
1995 Jeep Cherokee
post #7 of (permalink) Old 08-04-2000, 01:52 PM
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Re: Building a wicked suspension

So you are actually moving the pre-existing t-case forward by eliminating the short drive shaft and adding another one (which happens to be stock from another sami) behind the original? You mentioned when we talked on the Rubican that you were going to have to twist the t-case a bit to allow the front drive-shaft to pass the front t-case. Are you still going to have to do that?

Cam Iliff
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post #8 of (permalink) Old 08-04-2000, 03:30 PM
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Re: Building a wicked suspension

What we are doing is eliminating the middle shaft out of the driveshaftcoming from the transmission to the stock t-case, and in those respects shortening the shaft. THen you obviously slide the stock t-case forward so it will bolt up to the flange since it is now over 10 inches farther away and then you bolt the other t-case DIRECTLY to the 'now slid forward' t-case. The first t-case (bolted to the shortened driveshaft), will be tilted up on the output flanged side towards the cab, which is why youhave to cut a piece of the floorboard. And then you bolt the new t-case to the rear output shaft on that t-case and you tilt downward, so that the driveline angle is correct and you can still use it's shiftlever.

_____________
RAGEx2 - Mike Egli
[email protected]
Office- 415-444-7171
Cellular- 707-318-6503
1991 Suzuki Samarai
1995 Jeep Cherokee
post #9 of (permalink) Old 08-04-2000, 03:34 PM
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Re: Building a wicked suspension

TO add on to the message I wrote to you in response, Cameo, you basically put the two t-cases in an upside down V (with a non harsh angle, so that the driveline angle stays the same but you can still push the floor shifters through. The floor shifters will nto be at exactt stright angle and you will have to enlarge both holes to put the shifters through, but it will still work perfect.

The other option, is to bolt them straight behind eachother, flip the axle upside down and reweld the spring mounts on the other side of the axle, so that the 3rd member is now on the other side and therefore making the drivline angle correct!

_____________
RAGEx2 - Mike Egli
[email protected]
Office- 415-444-7171
Cellular- 707-318-6503
1991 Suzuki Samarai
1995 Jeep Cherokee
Sponsored Links
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