Ok, let me recap upon my project, why I am doing it, and after tearing everything apart last night, give you a little bit more input on what will need to be done.
I am putting in a 2nd Samurai T-case because
1) They are cheap
2) The flanges mount up so I do not need to change them
3) The drivelines mount up so I do not need to change them
4) Because I trust Samurai parts, and I like staying with Samurai parts. If you don't trust Samurai, go buy a Jeep where every jeep has either Ford or Chevy parts in it (doesn't that tell you something?)
Stock Samurai T-cases are easy to get a hold of, and after visiting a few junkyards I found that it is easy to get ahold of a used t-case for under $250 and sometimes under $200 which is an awesome deal because it makes this conversion cheaper than actually buying replacement gears or the 'KLUNE-V' ultimate t-case. For those of you who want the lowest gears you can get, adding in two Transfer cases with reduced gears is WAY lower than the 'Klune-V' goes and you have as many options as a twin shifter(if not more).
What I wrote before was me being full of shi_. The adding of the second t-case is much more difficult than I originally planned on, but not that hard. You will need a torch, a good vise and grinder.
The driveshaft coming out of the transmission is a two piece shaft with a U-Joint in the middle and going to a flange that bolts to your stock t-case. The flange that bolts to the t-case is a u-joint fitting, so this is where the play begins. You first torch off the crossmemeber that holds the t-case and tranmission in place on the rear end. You take out both U-joints on the driveshaft which gives you three main parts, the initial shaft coming from the transmission, the middle shaft and the flange. You put a new u-joint in the shaft part that still comes out of the transmission, and put the flange on the end of it, in effect taking out the middle man. The flange is a little big in diameter( about a 1/4"), so you have to grind it down a bit to make it so that it can spin freely. Then you slide the transfer case up to it and bolt it in. The first thing that you will notice is that the slope from the body to the passenger side floor board is in the way, so if you cut a 8" x 8" hole there you can push the T-case up into it (later on you can get some steel to put around it and then weld it back on for a clean look.
Then you put the second t-case behind and bolt up the flanges. The second t-case will have to be put at a slightly more vertical angle (not to much so that stick lever can still go through the floor board.) than the stock one to keep the driveline angles close to the original. The interesting thing is that when you remove the middle driveshaft piece from the transmission, and do the rest of this conversion, your second t-case is virtually in the EXACT same position the original was, so you drivelines do NOT need to be extended.
Then you bolt the rear and front drivelines to it. Now with cutting a few notches out of the stock t-case and tranny mount, you can weld it back in place.
You will have to make a new mount for the second t-case, which I will use a piece of angle Iron or square tubing. I will bolt this to the stock t-case crossmember, and run it back to the frame cross section which will be welded on.
Obviously, the last thing you have to do is to pipe both shifters into the cab. You have to cut a 3"x4" hole in the rise slop of the floorboard right under the transmission shifter for the original t-case shifter to go through. The 2nd t-case will go through the original hole.
The entire process takes about 4 hours if you have the right tools.
The only thing to think about is that althoguh you have returned your drivlines to a better angle, they are now in a bit more exposed angle than before. Plus, you should make a good skidplate to protect BOTH of you assets under your rig.
I will post pix of the entire conversion in a week or so on my website and I will post the link here.
RAGEx2 - Mike Egli
1991 Suzuki Samarai
1995 Jeep Cherokee