currently on my samurai i have a set of 235x75xR15 all terrains. The suspension is stock besides longer shackles. The problem i have is the shackles seem to hit many of the obsticles i attempt and bottom out in deep ruts... I want to be able to clear 30 inch tall tires and get rid of the extended shackles. What can i do to achieve this? I'm on a very limited budget. If i buy new pearches to mount the springs over the axle what other parts would i need? (ie U bolts, brake lines, driveshaft spacers) I refuse to do a body lift so my focus is on suspension. Thanks
under spring is the way to go. i am going to do a sj413 from what i was told you dont need any extra parts use all your stuff ie grind of spring mounts off the axles and re weld on stuff like that you may need to get a longer brake line for the back axle but then agian you can drop the mount for the line and use a longer steel line to save cash. i was going to make longer shackles for the stock sj410 i havent desided yet. dont know what to do with the sj413 eather might just pull the new motor out and a few other goodies and scrap it
thanks for the advice JD... What about steering parts? all the lift manufactures recomend OTT and other steering products they sell. Is this just them marketing their products or is it a necesity with a lift? By the way if i purchase 3" lift springs would my Zuk clear 30" tires?
perches. Not too expensive. I recommend welded-on perches.
longer shocks. You may need to relocate the shock mounts
longer brakelines. You can use rubber brakelines from other makes (don't go to the salvage yard for these!) as extensions.
driveshaft spacers. Extended driveshaft tail pieces are a better choice and are available at several of the popular Vendors.
Some sort of modified draglink or - better yet - a drop pittman arm or over-the-top (OTT) steering system. The drop pittman and the the OTT system will eliminate bumpsteer. A "Z"-type draglink will not. You can drive your truck with a "Z" or similar draglink but every time you hit a bump on regular roads, the steering wheel will twitch in your hands. I put up with it for 5 years...
i looked at a spring under my self i was going to use every thing just do some re fabing drop the brake line mounts use the factroy shocks if i had to extend drive shafts i would just grind off the weld on the drive shafts and pull them out a bit or extend the a inch or two. the biggest thing is spring perches as to the angle you weld them back on if your out you will get a dead spot in the stearing so if you towed it with a tow bar it will not stear on its own. i had a run in with this problem when buddy re welded his on cummings 4x4 he changed the pitch and now theres a two handed stearing wheel in it hahaha . as for stearing parts i am not sure your not droping it a whole lot i would try factory but then again it maybe out a lot . i got a 85 sj 410 with 65 k on it i dont want to mod it but but deep in side i do i want to put a rocklobster it and weld the rims to a daton transport rim and big rig ice tires on it with a underspring lift and a inch or two body lift but then i got a jx long body that i could mod out but its not sea worthy hahaha then again you could do what purevil71 said cut the fenders wells out its up to you how far you want to go if you try the underspring i would love to hear how it goes sorrry if i miss spell anything i am a shop prodigy not an english teacher cheers
jdskull has made an important point regarding any suspension lift:
Whatever you do, you must keep the pinion angles stock to avoid u-joint damage and - in the case of the front axle - avoid changing the caster angle. The caster angle, if not kept at factory specs, will cause poor handling and make flat-towing difficult, if not dangerous.
Go to Ack's FAQ and do a search for caster for info on caster and driveshaft for info on driveline operating along with other useful links.
I hope that this helps!
Ack Ack's FAQ
nearly 837 searchable links to Suzuki/Geo modding and maintenence info - including the Tracker FSM Project!
'88 "SJ-416 Samurai"
'11 Ford Transit Connect XLT
i've heard that the rocky road SPOA perches will keep the factory pinion angles and the correct geometry. is this true? Ive also read some stories where people have purchased their kit and had to grind a considerable amount off the front SPOA perches in order for their rig to even steer...
as for as cutting up the zuk to make room i've already cut the front bumper ends off at the turn signal lights and plan on cutting the factory fender flare lips off...