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post #1 of (permalink) Old 11-14-2008, 01:33 PM Thread Starter
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Mechanical or Electrical Fan??

Hey everybody...

Been a while since I posted on the BB. Been busy and haven't had much time to linger.

Question is:

What do youall recommend...

Mechanical fan cooling or Electrical fan cooling??

Here's what I've got going.. 1600 16 valve with an offset mechanical fan ( 12" hayden super cool). Looking to replace it cuz I found out that the thing only pulls 800-960 CFM best case scenario
Considering the 120 Flexalite 12" electrical 1250CFM OR
The PW mechanical conversion.
I'm think that the mechanical would pull a whole lot more CFM cuz it should come in around 800 CFM at idle and when running hard (4500 rpm) should be pullin way more than 3000 CFM.

Any helps ...Opinions on this??

TIA

billybob_CA
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 11-15-2008, 02:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by billybob View Post
Hey everybody...

Been a while since I posted on the BB. Been busy and haven't had much time to linger.

Question is:

What do youall recommend...

Mechanical fan cooling or Electrical fan cooling??

Here's what I've got going.. 1600 16 valve with an offset mechanical fan ( 12" hayden super cool). Looking to replace it cuz I found out that the thing only pulls 800-960 CFM best case scenario
Considering the 120 Flexalite 12" electrical 1250CFM OR
The PW mechanical conversion.
I'm think that the mechanical would pull a whole lot more CFM cuz it should come in around 800 CFM at idle and when running hard (4500 rpm) should be pullin way more than 3000 CFM.

Any helps ...Opinions on this??

TIA

My viscous fan has just died so I'm going to fit a leccy fan in front of the rad. I want it in front because it makes access to the fan belts and timing belts easier.
Do you have an overheating problem? In most cases the airflow of the fan on its own is a lot more than can actually be pulled through the rad. The bigger the fan, mechanical or electrical, the more load on the engine.

2000 Vitara 1.6, 2" lift, 3" body lift, winch, snorkel, safari rack, 33" MTs, rear discs, steel front axle, 5:83s
SJ413K Pick Up, 1.6 conversion.
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post #3 of (permalink) Old 11-16-2008, 11:18 AM Thread Starter
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Well the cooling issues are when pullin hills at 4000-4500 rpm with 85-100+*

Have the hayden 12" puller and it works great until I push the engine hard for extended periods (1/2 hr +) then it pushes iut the coolant and won;t stay cool after that. The Autometer gauge never goes over 210 but it still blows out the coolant.

L8R

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post #4 of (permalink) Old 11-16-2008, 09:45 PM Thread Starter
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So I sat around thinking bout the airflow thing and put together my own xperiment... re-installed the OE fan and shroud to see what the outcome would be.
Found out several things;
OE fan pulls alot more CFM than the Hayden... NEVER got over 190*
PW 16 valve engine adapter lowers the engine (thus the fan location) bout 1/2"...needed to make allowances for that
Hayden fan was originally set-up as a pusher... needed to reverse blade for puller set-up DOH!
Fan blades are sharp enuff to scalp yer finger tip if'n you don't pay attention.

Ow hope this helps someone out there.

L8R

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post #5 of (permalink) Old 11-24-2008, 07:18 PM Thread Starter
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Cooling Fan Solutions

Quote:
Originally Posted by James_Holland View Post
My viscous fan has just died so I'm going to fit a leccy fan in front of the rad. I want it in front because it makes access to the fan belts and timing belts easier.
Do you have an overheating problem? In most cases the airflow of the fan on its own is a lot more than can actually be pulled through the rad. The bigger the fan, mechanical or electrical, the more load on the engine.
OK Here's the deal for any of you that care to know...

I went BACK to the mechanical fan with the fan clutch to establish a baseline of temp operation...

I found out that the PW engine adapter kit is super great for doing the 16 valve swap BUT you will have to modify the radiator mounting brackets in order to re-install the OE fan & clutch...

That said, the OE fan & fan clutch established the baseline operating temp 192-195* without o/heating. Problem 2 remains which is that when crawling the OE fan set-up doesn't move enuff air and I have a cooling issue again.

Solution is to install the FlexaLite 110 or 120 model fan... set-up as a puller 1250cfm with a slim profile. This fan works beautifully! Tho' a little pricey @ $125... comes with a hard plastic rectangular shroud that matches the Sami rad surface area perfectly! Also comes with a high temp sealer/gasket that seals the rectangular shroud to the rad. Tight fit but clears the engine pulleys and comes with all of th installation hardware that you'll need MINUS the thru-core mounting wires. Car Quest $7

So far I'm very pleased... check Summitracing.com

HTH

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post #6 of (permalink) Old 11-25-2008, 07:22 AM
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Good info, thanks.

2000 Vitara 1.6, 2" lift, 3" body lift, winch, snorkel, safari rack, 33" MTs, rear discs, steel front axle, 5:83s
SJ413K Pick Up, 1.6 conversion.
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post #7 of (permalink) Old 11-26-2008, 08:18 AM
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No shroud = no real CFM

Added bennies on the electric fan.

1. You get max cooling at slow crawl speeds
2. You can install a switch to shut off for water x'ins and mud holes.
3. Adds a little bling.

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