1.3 8 valve Engine timing - Off-Road Forums & Discussion Groups
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post #1 of (permalink) Old 12-18-2007, 10:44 AM
wwworth
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1.3 8 valve Engine timing

I have a 1993 Suzuki Samurai. A previous owner has marked the distributer cap number 1 position (as shown in the repair manual) as number 4 and the spark plugs are wired accordingly. Is it possible to put the distributer in 180 deg. out and than put the timing belt on and so it will work that way? When I turn the engine to the time for the number one plug to fire the distributer points to the normal number 4 contact position.
Also the distributer does not have an alignment notch like other engines I have worked on and and you can rotate it 180 and it will go on just fine.
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 12-18-2007, 05:53 PM
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I have a 1993 Suzuki Samurai. A previous owner has marked the distributer cap number 1 position (as shown in the repair manual) as number 4 and the spark plugs are wired accordingly. Is it possible to put the distributer in 180 deg. out and than put the timing belt on and so it will work that way?

yes, you just rewire the distributor so the right plug hole in the cap is now firing #1 plug (on a side note, it WILL run if it is timed 180d out of proper position. just not well)

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When I turn the engine to the time for the number one plug to fire the distributer points to the normal number 4 contact position.
Also the distributer does not have an alignment notch like other engines I have worked on and and you can rotate it 180 and it will go on just fine.

im a little confused as to what you want to know here. yes can rotate 360 degrees in the mount if it doesn't hit the firewall. if the timing belt (cam to crank) are timed right, you can use any spark hole on the top of the cap for #1, and have it run.

[/QUOTE]


i assume your having running issues to post here. is that so? if so please elaborate a little more so someone can help ya.

BiLLy bOb

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Last edited by Billy Bob; 12-18-2007 at 05:58 PM.
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post #3 of (permalink) Old 12-18-2007, 10:02 PM
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Keeping it simple.
Is it possible to put the distributer in 180 deg. out and than put the timing belt on and so it will work that way?
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post #4 of (permalink) Old 12-19-2007, 07:41 AM
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yes you can do that.

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post #5 of (permalink) Old 12-19-2007, 08:14 AM
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Than the distributer must be direct gear drive and I can poisition so it will be back to factory settings. The previous owner must have installed the timing belt incorrectly and changed the distributer to keep from taking it apart to correct his mistake. So all I have left to do is rotate the distributer shaft 180 and it will be back to normal. I like normal! Thanks WW
post #6 of (permalink) Old 12-19-2007, 09:23 AM
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yes, the disty is gear drive directly onto the cam where it slips down into the housing on the back of the head. just pull it out, turn the disty gear 180 and slip it back in.

without looking at it in person its hard to see what the previous owner did. its quite possible he timed the belt (crank to cam timing) 180 out, then wired the disty cap 180 out to accomodate the timing belt being wrong. if he used a aftermarket repair manual (dont remember which one right off), one of them by following their instructions, a person is timing the truck 180 out at the belt. in doing this, a person will either have to install the disty 180 out if they want to keep the plug wires in the original holes, OR, leave the disty alone and change the plug wires 180 to accomodate the belt wrong.
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this is just my thought from what i have gathered so far.

going back to your original post, it sounds like the previous owner timed it 180 out on the belt and repositioned the plug wires in the cap to make up for the belt being wrong so in the end it would be timed correctly even though the wires do not match up with what is marked as number 1 on the cap.
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does the truck currently run fine and dandy, or not? trying to figure out what the exact problem is so i might help get it all right.

BiLLy bOb

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post #7 of (permalink) Old 12-19-2007, 09:59 AM
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The truck ran fine but had a very bad oil leak at the front seal. The seal fell out of the oil pump when I removed the pump. I had a new timing belt and idler on hand and replaced them while I had it apart. I have worked on engines of various types since childhood (I will be 63 in a month). This is the first overhead cam engine other than some motorcycles that I have worked on. The Suzuki factory manual is not all that detailed and I do not like to jump in with out knowing a little about where I am going and If the books do not tell me than I ask! I was hoping some one in SW Ohio might have answered (I find it is more fun to work together than alone as I tire of talking to my self very quickly) But Tennessee is fine and I appreciate your help. The garage is now warm so I best get to work.
Have a great day
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post #8 of (permalink) Old 12-19-2007, 10:40 AM
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hey man, did some searching, heres a quicky for timing it. it sounds like its pretty much on from what memory i do have. havent wrenched on mine in a long time. if this dont getcha, let me know whats up and ill see what i can do for ya. too bad somebody up your way didnt reply. i know theres several folks in your area. i agree, its always funner to work with company.
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Default Re: timing problems again
If you align the crank and the cam marks to the 12 o'clock positions as in the FSM, you'll be at TDC for cylinder #4.

Next, rotate the crank a full 360 clockwise all the way back to the alignment mark. The cam mark should now be at 6 o'clock. Now it is at cylinder #1 TDC.

2 crankshaft revolutions = 1 camshaft revolution

At this point you should align the distributor to the first cylinder (rotor contact should be pointing to the distributor hold down bolt).

You should now be in the ball park, needing only the fine tuning with a timing light.
[img]images/graemlins/40BEER.gif[/img]

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post #9 of (permalink) Old 12-19-2007, 10:48 AM
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I've timed a zuki 180 out by following a Hanes manual. The vehicle will run but badly.
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post #10 of (permalink) Old 12-19-2007, 10:55 AM
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Sounds right thanks.
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