Help : Truck Not Starting Part II - Off-Road Forums & Discussion Groups
Suzuki GEO All Discussion of all things, Suzuki and GEO

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of (permalink) Old 01-24-2005, 03:31 PM Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Posts: 334
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
 
Help : Truck Not Starting Part II

Original thread here

OK... So the new timingbelt is on but I am still having small problems. I did the entire procedure listed in the orignal thread but somehow must have mess it up. I just can't get the truck to go. I get a couple of spurts here and there but it won't catch. What I am doing to solve this is the following.

1) turn crankbolt until piston one (closest to grill) reaches TDC (approx)
2) remove the dist. cap and adjustment screw
3) lift the dist so that I can turn the rotor manually to spark plug one
4) turn the engine
5) if doesn't start rotate the rotor 180 degrees and try again

Does the above look good to you guys. The only thing I am not sure of if the rotating 180 degrees. I seem to remember reading it in another posting. The reason I am assuming you need to do the 180 rotation is because you don't know on TDC of piston #1 if the cam and crankshaft markings are pointing at each other.

Thanks
Lil_Mudder is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of (permalink) Old 01-24-2005, 04:34 PM
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 502
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
 
Re: Help : Truck Not Starting Part II

When you got under the timing belt cover and discovered it was broken did you align the cam/crank sprockets per the procedure outlined in your manual BEFORE you slid the new belt on?

Sounds they are way out of whack to me....
Cosmo is offline  
post #3 of (permalink) Old 01-24-2005, 05:45 PM
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 534
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
 
Re: Help : Truck Not Starting Part II

If the cam and crank marks are both in the center pointing up and your distributer is 180 deg off the number one wire on the dis cap. Then its just TDC on the exaust stroke. If you have the belt on with the tentioner rotate the crank 1 full rotation, now its on the compustion stroke and every thing should be good on that part.
mug_Shot is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of (permalink) Old 01-24-2005, 07:44 PM Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Posts: 334
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
 
Re: Help : Truck Not Starting Part II

As per the original instructions everything was lined up properly meaning that the cam gear mark was pointing at 6 and the crankshaft mark was pointing at 12.
Lil_Mudder is offline  
post #5 of (permalink) Old 01-24-2005, 08:27 PM
Veteran
 
TomKat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: York,SC
Posts: 1,226
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
 
Re: Help : Truck Not Starting Part II

lemme guess, you have a haynes manual? Burn it for heat, thats all it's worth. Both gears marks should be at 12 o'clock, pointing directly at the locator marks on the oil pump housing and cam timing gear back plate, go recheck, something must be off. Did it run fine before the timing belt change? [img]images/graemlins/confused.gif[/img]
TomKat is offline  
post #6 of (permalink) Old 01-24-2005, 09:49 PM Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Posts: 334
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
 
Re: Help : Truck Not Starting Part II

Yes the truck ran fine before the belt broke. So your saying that the crank and cam bolts should both be pointing at 12? Is so that isn't what I got in the original thread. I'll check my chilton manual and see what it says.

Thanks
Lil_Mudder is offline  
post #7 of (permalink) Old 01-25-2005, 01:56 AM
Keyboard Implanted
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: North Central Illinois
Posts: 3,928
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
 
Re: Help : Truck Not Starting Part II

Index cylinder #1= cam at 6 o'clock , crank at 12 o'clock.
Index cylinder #4= cam at 12 o'clock, crank at 12 o'clock.
Pro tip: use a straightedge of some sort , ruler , angle iron or whatever you want . Centerline between the cam sprocket bolt and the crank sprocket bolt should line up both marks , don't just eyeball it as the engine sits at an angle . You'd be surprised how many folks have screwed this up trying to eyeball it ...
Sarge
Sarge is offline  
post #8 of (permalink) Old 01-25-2005, 06:27 AM
Old Hand
 
bradzuki's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Oak Ridge, TN
Posts: 1,074
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
 
Re: Help : Truck Not Starting Part II

When you put the belt on the crank must've been on exhaust stroke instead of compression. Crank turns twice for every single turn of the cam.

Brad.
bradzuki is offline  
post #9 of (permalink) Old 01-25-2005, 09:34 AM Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Posts: 334
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
 
Re: Help : Truck Not Starting Part II

Man this is getting a little frustrating [img]images/graemlins/cussing.gif[/img].... Ok... So on cylinder #1 at TDC how do I know if its the compressions stroke or the exhaust stroke? From what I read above having the cam mark at 6 and the crank mark at 12 doesn't necessarily mean that I am on the compression stroke.
I hope there is a simple answer to this. I just want to drive my Zuke again.... [img]images/graemlins/wall.gif[/img]
This explains why in some posts in the past there was a mention of 180 out of phase. The positive about this posting is that I'm learning alot.
I need some advice on a procedure to move forward with as minimal disassembly as possible. Having everything put back together what would you guys suggest I do to get this running as easily as possible. If I could just get it running even badly and then adjust the timing I would be set.
Lil_Mudder is offline  
post #10 of (permalink) Old 01-25-2005, 09:43 AM
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 502
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
 
Re: Help : Truck Not Starting Part II

On TDC COMPRESSION stroke....#1 piston will be at the TOP of the cylinder....

TDC on EXHAUST stroke the piston will be at the bottom of the cylinder.

Either way crank pully will be aligned with timing mark..

If you get TDC on compression stroke and rotor DOES NOT point to #1 on the cap.....that is your problem.

Don't you have a manual???? Sure would save you alot of time posting/waiting for answers....best $12-$15 you will spend.
Cosmo is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Off-Road Forums & Discussion Groups forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome