Listen man... if it has a 10 amp fuse it needs a 10 amp fuse. You have heard the saying "A chain is only as strong as it's weakest link"; well the fuse is designed to be the weakest link in any electrical system. If something is "Gonna Blow", you want it to be the fuse. The wiring harness is designed and laid out with it's load in mind. In other words if a load (light, fan, guage, wiper etc...) has a load of say 15 amps, the engineers will rate the wire for say 25 amps but put fuse in line that is 20 amps. That gives the system a little play room just in case a stick gets jammed in the wiper motor or something. It will run up to 20 amps, break the stick and no damage done... But say for instance the stick doesn't break (the load gets
to much for the little motor) and the amperage goes up to 21 amps, then the fuse opens (burns). You go to turn the wipers on, they don't work, you see the stick, pull it out, replace the fuse, no harm done. But if you put a 30 amp fuse where it is designed to be a 20 then the weak point becomes (you guessed it) the wire, and then unfortunatley the wire that feeds the wiper is in a harness (bundle) that also has the wires that go to the blinkers, headlights etc... and that one little wiper wire gets hot enough to burn into several of the other wires. And then guess what. You have a little bit bigger problem on your hands, now all the wires are burnt. All because you upsized a fuse... hum, so now what do you do.
I would suggest taking all the fuses out and setting up a meter to check for amperage load from the battery. As you put each fuse back in and (by the way, the load has to be turned on, unless it is shorted (burnt into something that will ground it)) check the amp draw. This will help you to determine which circuit is shorted, ground or open.
Look, NO MORE oversized fuses... It popped for a reason.
I do not know it all and yes, unless our dear old Daddy told us otherwise, we have all made that mistake.
If I can help email me at [email protected]