i posted a couple weeks ago about crab freezing, then later about a fix, then a couple days ago about it re-occuring, and now im once again back to say that i think ive figured it out.
i thought that unlikely as it may be, after reading so much here, id throw this on in case there is someone that can benefit from my experience.
anyway, my thermo sensor was opening the valve at idle, so all seemed well when i checked it, but it would close at more than idle, drawing in cold air, and causing the freezing.
so as a temporary fix, till i replace the sensor or till it warms up, i disconnected the vacuum hose to the valve, so it stays shut, disconnected the regular intake hose, and connected the warm air intake to the regular intake.
i wasnt sure if this would bring on overheating issues, as it now cant draw in cold air, but if im not mistaken, there are a few of you doing something similar with webers (i remember reading crows solution to his carb freezing problems) but i tested it today, kept an eye on the temp gauge, and all seemed well. ill take it out this weekend to do the same trip i had problems with teh last few times, but it seems like this is working for now
now that its running well i can start looking for a set of cj fronts for the back! i cant wait to start with the fun mods!! [img]images/graemlins/40BEER.gif[/img]

The pre sami SJ410's have a manual air valve that is controled and locked with a wing nut. depending
on ambient air temps you are supposed to adust it open, closed, or partial for hot air. After switching to
U76 gasahol I stopped needing to have it open to the hot air side at all.

I guess my point is dual. better gas worked for me, Either U76 puts something good in there gas that other
gas companies in CA do not, or the gasahol keeps the moisture out of the carb, keeping it from freezing
some orifice shut.

Doing what you have done works, but may be masking the real problem

Ok , if you are willing to spend the time to do that , try this one out . There is a vacuum/temp switch located directly under the carb on the outside of the intake , can't remember now what it is for but it does control vacuum with engine temp . Try testing that switch to see if it's normally open or closed , then use it to control when the hot air valve on the air cleaner opens , keeping the hot air going past idle until the engine/carb/engine bay are at sufficient temp to prevent freezing . I just haven't had time to do it , besides , I run a totally open element on mine and have only had barely intermittent problems with this . I agree with Outlaw , I think part of the reason I don't hardly have this problem is due to fuel . The cheaper the fuel , or the place you get it from , the better chance of water in it . Some additives will help keep the water moving and it's ability to be passed through the sytem , but when it comes to the high velocity attributes of a carb it gets the mixture frozen to the point of causing problems . I hope you understand all of this , if that does work I'll have to make that an option since I usually disontinue that valve and replace it with a 3/8"NPT plug in it's place on my modified intakes . Also , there are different temp rated valves available from other applications , as well as different configurations as to normally open or closed circuits . Hope all this makes sense....
Sarge

hey sarge, are you talking about on a weber or stock carb?
im running a stock carb for now (hoping to go to a weber soon)
my post mayb have made it sound as though i had a weber....didnt mean to be misleading
it hasnt been a problem right after startup. then it stays open and it doenst freeze up. it only freezes after ive been driving for a couple hours at low temperature usually. one exception was when it was barely above freezing and raining hard. that was the only time its frozen in about 20 minutes, otherwise its about 3 hours into a drive.
appreciate the advice though guys. ill keep track of where i fill up and what results i have too. is there a way to test for any water in my fuel that i have now?
i had a water/fuel seperator on my landcruiser. is there anything short of this that will work? or even just a way to determine if its in there?
i guess i could drain some from the tank and let it sit and see if it seperated.
im not sure what gas stations up here in BC have gasohol, but ill see if i can find out.
thanks again.
one last thing-sarge-if you read this, im looking to get a dgv 5a weber, and i know about what jets i need from your other posts, but i was wondering if there are any different models of this carburetor? anything i need to look out for when i order it?

Look for a 32/36DGV 5A , series 33B1 if you can find it . Stay away from the DFV series , they suck . Make sure the throttle shafts work freely , but not loose...
Sarge

</font><blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr />
crab freezing

[/ QUOTE ] [img]images/graemlins/confused.gif[/img] [img]images/graemlins/smirk.gif[/img] [img]images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img] [img]images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]

ROFLMFAO

Yer crab'd be froze here, it's 19 out [img]images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]

as far as getting by but masking the original problem, i considered that and wasnt happy about it, till i thought about the fact that thats really all i need.
im planning to order a new weber with a conversion kit soon, so finding one thats the right series shouldnt be a problem (fingers crossed)...thanks for the pointers sarge!
outlaw, im going to check into the fuel line antifreeze, and try it with the warm air hose disconnected, as well as pull the plug from my tank and see if i drain fuel or water.
toyguy, crab freezing? damn fingers, i went back and corrected that recurring typo like 6 times already...im gonna have to find a new topic to post on...something i can consistently spell correctly!
until then, back to searching...i tried weber...gave up at 500....WEBER and STALL....almost as many.....maybe i should look at a pony after all, since i DO live in canada. just hesitant to buy a 20 year old carb, seeing as how thats whats giving me problems now....
hey sarge, i read in an old post to watch out for some of the older series of dgv's
are all of the new dgv 5A's the same? of the 33B1 series at least? hate to be redundant, but if im springing for a new carb, i wanna be sure its the right one.
thanks again for any info