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post #1 of (permalink) Old 11-30-2003, 03:37 AM
SETZuki
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Shifter slack and positioning fix

I just got this 91 JL hardtop model 3 days ago. I noticed a bunch of slack in the shift patern and a problem with my fifth gear missing and grinding going in. It did not do this on my test run. Another thing I could not stand, was the fact the the shift lever hit the bottom of my dash in 1,3 and 5. I have no doubt, this added to my problems.

So, dredding my worst case scenerio, (shift linkage-not knowing anything about Zuki's) I pulled it up on ramps to get a look at my mess. To my suprise, NO LINKAGE!! WOOHOO!!

Anyway, long story short. OR LONGER ~ There is an eyeball socket on the lever. There is a groove in the rear of it. A bolt seats in that groove from the body. The bolt was backed out slightly. This gave it slack.
It also wollowed out my groove. It had two, very prominate wear spots on the sides on the short end of the lever shaft below the ball. I had to weld these areas solid and mill a new groove in the exact spot where the bolt gets seated. I then ground down the weld to flush and lightly polished up with a flap wheel.

Get a bucket of hot water. I also ground a groove half way through the shaft in the nape of the shaft's "elbow" as it is solid through and through. This allowed me to easily heat up that area with my propane crawfish boiler/burner.

Take care, as the shaft is a 2 piece assy. and has a rubber gromit between them. It will catch fire and melt away. So keep an eye on that. Blow it out, when it does.
When you get the area cherry hot, hammer on the grooved side to bend it closed. Not all the way, because you must squeeze a weld in there.
Next step: weld shut-dunk in water. Dry off.
Next I crimped the outer shaft section to the solid piece with a hammer and anvil. Make seal weld around it. This will leave a whole in your weld where the rubber gromit will smoke your weld out. Make sure you make your closure on this weld on the bottom, were you will not see it.

I then picked a spot 6 inches from the top of the lever, near the shifting ball. Heated and bend that at roughly a 45 angle (same as the first bend you made). Then primed and painted. Lever should look like a lazy or elongated "z".

One more problem I may have found. (Not sure, common sense tells me) Seems there should be approx. 1/4"-3/8" spacer washer or gromit that sits on top of the curved washer that gets sandwiched on top of the ball when the lever assy. sits in the top of the tranny and the retension bracket is in place. I don't know for sure, but the lever assembly did move up and down in the casing too much. (I thought).
I could not find a metal washer or spacer thick or large enough to go in there. So I shaped on from a thick piece of ridged polyfoam I had laying around.

Grease ball of shift lever before final assembly.

I can tell you that once I had things reassembled and tight, The shift patern is how it should be.
*Lever doesn't hit bottom of dash anymore.
Clears everything nicely. SMACK DAB IN THE MIDDLE!!
*No problems with fifth gear.....so far.
*Everything is stiff as it would have come from the factory, I presume.
As I drive it more I'll know for sure if this fixed my problem.
Sorry to bore you. Thanks for reading.

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post #2 of (permalink) Old 11-30-2003, 11:05 AM
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Re: Shifter slack and positioning fix

Got any pics?

I had a second guide pin bolt added to the tower and the shifter milled accordingly. The original bolt was replaced with the late model bolt and drilled tapped and milled accordingly. Shifting is precise and smooth......
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post #3 of (permalink) Old 11-30-2003, 01:24 PM
 
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Re: Shifter slack and positioning fix

They sell kits at RRO(and others) to fix the sloppy shifter on your trans. No mods needed.
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post #4 of (permalink) Old 11-30-2003, 02:38 PM
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Re: Shifter slack and positioning fix

This was a mod to not only fix slop but to reposition the angles of the shift lever itstelf and.... it probably cost less than $2 total with welding wire, propane, polyfoam and 3 hours to complete. Why buy a kit for such an easy fix?

LOOK BELOW THIS>>>>>>>>> for [img]images/graemlins/deal.gif[/img]My life's theory.
post #5 of (permalink) Old 11-30-2003, 04:03 PM
 
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Re: Shifter slack and positioning fix

lol I dont think I have the heart to mention that the shift relocation bolt is less then that, but I do respect a different stab at things, sounds like a cool way to do it.
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post #6 of (permalink) Old 11-30-2003, 04:39 PM
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Re: Shifter slack and positioning fix

Hey guys, some information for ya. I'm not downing anyone... but....First off, my bolt was fine. Just loose. A little lock-tite to fix that problem. I had others like the wollowed out channel, for that bolt, to take care of first.
I had to weld that shut, then mill another groove in it.
I wasn't taking any chances with my lever hitting the bottom of my dash, so I bent it to clear... Very easily, I might add. And it looks good too.
I'd rather take the time and what little cost to make this modification/repair job myself, than spend the extra dough buying another new or used shift lever assembly, kit or someone else to repair it for me.
I was making a point that the repair I mentioned, could be made in the field if you had the right equipment and what [img]images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]little supplies necassary.

I am pretty proud of the job I did on this. Especially, not knowing ANYthing about Samurais at all, as this is my first. COMMON, I've only had the thing 3 days!!! LOL
post #7 of (permalink) Old 11-30-2003, 05:21 PM
 
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Re: Shifter slack and positioning fix

Well you seem like you know what your doing. I just didn't know if you knew there was kit being that you where new to Samurais.

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post #8 of (permalink) Old 11-30-2003, 05:27 PM
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Re: Shifter slack and positioning fix

Isn't there a like 10mm bolt kit for the shifters that are wollowed out? I think the center groove has to be enlarged to accomidate the larger stub. I know there's a dual bolt (front and rear on the shifter tower) system for sale out there.
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post #9 of (permalink) Old 11-30-2003, 05:52 PM
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Re: Shifter slack and positioning fix

Exactly.......The late models have the 10mm bolt and the early have the 8mm bolt.....
If you have an early model and drill & tap for the 10mm bolt, you'll have to mill the shifter slot accordingly.....

I never heard of needing to bend the shifter, but there's a first for everything..... [img]images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]
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post #10 of (permalink) Old 11-30-2003, 06:08 PM
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Re: Shifter slack and positioning fix

Mine is the 10mm bolt.
Let me just say, I did not have to replace my bolt. My shift lever was damaged. It was also missing a part, I think. I made a repair. Did I narrate my repair wrong or something? Is it confusing as described?

The bolt was NOT damaged.
It was my lever ball groove itself. (wollowed out)
The bolt was only loose. Loc-tite fixed that.
Welding was the only way to fix the channel in the ball on the lever.
There seems to be a spacer, that was missing. I also fabbed that from polyfoam. Nothing more. Heck, just email me and I'll float anyone a diagram of my repair procedure.
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