Here's my opinion, one of many and not the most experienced.
The nicest ride you can get with leaf springs comes from Jeep YJ springs. There are a couple ways to mount them up, but I chose the Trail Tough missing link stuff. You can use non-folding shackles for the rear, too, and save a few bucks. The YJ springs are easy to find used. Opinions vary on using the 5 leaf or 4 leafs. I had a tintop and used 5 leafs all around.
You will need a set of shocks to go with your new suspension, so keep that cost in mind. It can be anywhere from about 100 to 300 doillars, depending on what you get. Good shocks are a good idea.
To fit those 33s under your truck you will have to go SPOA, which means getting some spring perches. All the vendors sell them and everyone has an opinion about which ones are best except me since Im not SPOA. The consensus seems to be that you dont skimp on perches and get the beefiest ones with the most secure mounting.
You will need steering correction. You can do a "Z link" which is cheapest but does nothing to help bump steer. If you ahve a lot of lift you may have to combine this with a drop pitman arm to try and get your drag link as close to parallel with the tie rod as possible. A more expensive but better solution is knuckle over steering, which relocates the drag link mount to the top of the steering knuckle, over the springs. There are also systems which locae the tie rod up there, too, called "Hi-steer". How you deeal with the steering seems to be a matter of getting what you pay for.
A tall truck with YJs willl have a lot lateral flex in the suspension when steering. That will cause vague steering among other things. The way to correct this is to use a panhard bar..a single link which connects to the frame and the suspension from side to side and limits this lateral movement without limiting the desired up/down travel. There is also the matter of spring wrap in the rear, which is not unlikely with soft YJ springs in an SPOA config unless you don't do too much in the way of rocks. This can be dealt with by using a traction bar. Lots of the vendors offer them.
You will need to pay attention to the backspacing on your wheels so they dont rub on the springs. Even 10.5" wide tires on std wheels will rub on the springs at full steering lock.
Of course some protection for the underside is a good idea. You might wish to get some "pumpkin caps" to protect the differentials. Good, cheap insurance. An 8" weld on pipe cap cut in half works if you dont want to buy some premade.
If you are going with 33" tires you are going to want to do some gearing correction. This is where most of your cash is going to go, in my opinion. You can do transfer case gears or ring and pinions or (preferably) both. Its possible to drive it without correction, but it will be really powerless. Look into the common transfer case gearsets and see what they correct for as it relates to tire height. i have a GRS2 (4:89) gearset in my Tcase and it is supposed to correct for up to 32" tires. I am on 30" tires and its geared a little low, but thats OK for the type of wheeling we have in New England (lots of rocks) There is an excellent article
on Trail Tough's website about gearing correction. In fact, there are several really good tech references there. Dont forget beefier mounts for the transfer case. I have a Mighty Kong combo skid plate/mount and I like it a lot. The Forrest "Bucket" is a similar concept and gets great reviews.
The choices you make should obviously reflect the type of driving and wheeling you do. I see you are in TX which I believe is pretty large and flat (drove through there a couple times) so you might not want to go too low for gearing. That will save you $$ Lockers or spools are great offroad but dont help on the street. Your choice there.
a slightly less expensive way to get better ride is to do the Jeep CJ springs in the rear and stock samurai springs in the front (RUF). The Jeep CJ springs are 2" wide, like the sami springs (YJs are 2.5" wide) so you dont have to change as much hardware to fit them.
Personally I would go for YJs SPOA (about $600), 4:16 gears ($400) and sidekick/tracker 5:12s for the R&Ps (300$ after all) Panhard and trac bar ($300) 2" backspace wheels ($200) rancho 9000x shocks ($300) tcase mount/skid ($200) rock rails and pumpkin caps ($200) and maybe the other 500$ on bumpers or rollcage or EFI swap or power steering or something.
hope this helps! and welcome to zukdom.