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post #1 of (permalink) Old 09-27-2003, 10:31 AM Thread Starter
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weber problems - daily driver -HELP

I've had the weber on for nearly 2 years now, haven't had any problems with it.
Stock engine, with header and 2" Exh.

Yesterday I finally put in an electric fuel pump with a regulator set to 3psi.

1st, 2nd, and 3rd gear seems to be doing better (pulling harder above 4k rpm's) but 4th and 5th gear once I hit about 3500 it starts bucking real bad as if I am running out of gas, if I keep it floored it continues to buck, if I let off the gas for a while it runs normal again for a while, floor it and it starts bucking again.
The stock pump with no regulator never did this and I always assumed I was sucking the carb dry because it was very hard to get any power out of it over 4k rpm and could never get it to go over 5k.


suggestions please..or my drive to work next week could prove to be very nerve racking.

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post #2 of (permalink) Old 09-27-2003, 11:24 AM Thread Starter
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Re: weber problems - daily driver -HELP

I pulled the top of the carb off and the 2 Jet thingies that I can see from here are numbered 155 and 160?? Is this normal or were they switched out at some point, also there was probably only about 1/4 to 1/2 of gas in the bowl?? again is that normal?

Needless to say I dont know sh!t about carbs.
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post #3 of (permalink) Old 09-27-2003, 12:16 PM
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Re: weber problems - daily driver -HELP

That sounds like what I was experiencing with my 29.95 regulator I installed. I'm running the stock leaker [img]images/graemlins/laugh.gif[/img] fuel pump, no regulator, and a weber 32/36. I stall going up hill but I never seem to run out of fuel. With the cheapo regulator installed, I would not stall going up hill but under any constant power, it'd die after 10 seconds or so ish. Solution, toss the electric and regulator (return maybe?) and go with the walbrol? electric pump and regulator combo. I think they are ~~ 60 dollars ish (bout as expensive as the cheap electric and regulator).

That's my input. You might want to clean out the carb while you're there. Be extra gentle with the gaskets so you can reuse them. Clean EVERYTHING out REAL WELL, make sure you're in a very clean environment!
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post #4 of (permalink) Old 09-27-2003, 12:51 PM Thread Starter
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Re: weber problems - daily driver -HELP

back from another test drive,

3rd gear 5500rpm
4th gear 4500 rpm
5th gear 3800rpm before the bucking starts

I used a 30.00 MrGasket regulator and a 40.00 Purolator fuel pump that says 4-7lbs at 35gals an hour

midway thru test drive, changed the pressure up to 5psi, but it seemed to make no difference,

Next test will be with regulator out of the pic and will see what happens.

damn this zuk!!
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post #5 of (permalink) Old 09-27-2003, 12:58 PM
 
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Re: weber problems - daily driver -HELP

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post #6 of (permalink) Old 09-27-2003, 01:22 PM Thread Starter
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Re: weber problems - daily driver -HELP

It was the [img]images/graemlins/AR15firing.gif[/img]regulator, I removed it, just running the electric pump only and didn't have any problems running rhrough all the gears. sons a beaches
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post #7 of (permalink) Old 09-27-2003, 01:24 PM
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Re: weber problems - daily driver -HELP

That's perfectly normal. NONE of those regulators work for daily driving. EVERY single person (that I know on the bbs) has had the exact same trouble with those 29.99 whatever (they are ALL the same) regulators. <--- PERIOD!
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post #8 of (permalink) Old 09-27-2003, 01:29 PM
 
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Re: weber problems - daily driver -HELP

I am running the Walbro pump with built in regulator and have had no problems.....

I was running a reg like you were and never could get it to stay at a constant pressure. If you can take all that stuff back and get a Walbro pump from JC Whitney for like $45. Just put a pressure gauge on before it goes into the carb and then adjust reg on the pump till you get it where ya want it.
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post #9 of (permalink) Old 09-27-2003, 01:58 PM Thread Starter
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Re: weber problems - daily driver -HELP

I will try the Walbro pump, and just hang onto this pump for a backup, the good news is it made me adjust my carb a little and it doesn't seem to hesitate on acceleration as bad as it used to,
backed the idle screw off, and my mix screw had to come out about 2 full turns for the smoothest idle (need a bigger jet), but how do I know what size is in there now? Do I have to take the carb completely apart?
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post #10 of (permalink) Old 09-27-2003, 10:41 PM
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Re: weber problems - daily driver -HELP

I need a "sticky post" for this , or learn how to copy it to the hard drive so I don't cause anymore undue wear on my totally wrecked fingers . First , always adjust the lean best idle with the speed screw backed off so it is NOT touching the linkage . Two, when setting the mix screw , only adjust it for the best and smoothest idle . Here's the trick: if your idle mixture screw is out more than 1.5 turns at this point , you need a bigger jet . The primary idle jet is located behind the choke housing on the side of the carb under a very large slotted brass screw . Most of these Webers have a 50,55, or 60 idle jet . A well set Sami engine will stand a 60 or so idle jet , some highly modified ones will take up to a 75 (max size) . My 38mm twin throat uses 75's in both sides , so guess how much $$$?? has been spent on this engine ? LOL .... Anyway, once the correct idle jet is installed , you should notice that the idle speed screw is very sensitive and will bring the idle up fast . This is due to the idle jet controlling the amount of available fuel VOLUME to the transition circuits . These circuits are what makes driveability just off idle clear up to 2k or so . If you ever try to adjust the speed screw and run into a flat spot , either the idle jet is plugged or the jet is too small . Those jets you mentioned on top are the air corrector jets for the main circuits . One for each respective barrel . Either that carb you have is jetted real lean , or someone has changed them . It should have a 160 primary , and 170 secondary air jets . Down in the bottom of the fuel bowl is the main fuel jets , most use 135-140 range for stock engines and 140-142 for modified motors . Be aware the air corrector jets will adjust the amount of air VOLUME available to be mixed in with the main fuel circuits at the upper range of each barrel . For example , if you find that you have to constantly keep opening up the secondary to maintain highway speed , try dropping down one size air corrector on the primary side to richen up the mix for a bit more power . If it gets worse , go up one size to lean that range out a bit . If at the point of opening the secondary there is a hesitation or balking , the secondary idle jet needs to be larger . Most use a 50, but could use a 55 or so . I usually try to stay within 10 points of the primary idle jet size , good point of reference to what the engine will use . Once properly set , the carb should seriously roar when the secondary is opened as you are feeding a lot of air at once . Open air cleaners will make it louder , so will 2" exhaust . BTW, unless you can figure out a way to jam more air/fuel into a Sami engine than I can , don't ruin that motor with an exhaust any larger than 2" , and run it the full length of the vehicle to get the best powerband and torque you can extract from it . A good flowing /medium back pressure muffler works well , cherry bombs won't help anything especially your ears . The stock fuel pumps suck , go with the electric Walbro and skip using the return system . Small block Chevy blockoff plates if I remember correctly work ok but need some mods to fit the Sami motor so you won't have any leaks in the future . Just remember to remove the pump pushrod or you'll be real sorry. Ok , enough for now , I think I forgot the original question anyway.....
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