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post #1 of (permalink) Old 08-13-2003, 04:47 PM
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gearing

Im running 31x10.5 and am soon going to be running 32's. I have a 1.6l 8 valve, and a midrange cam from calmini that I am about to put in. I am now going for lower gears. I,m looking at the 6.5:1 because they correct highway for 32's and give massive reduction for rockcrawling, which is what i want... But should I do this, of get 4.1 or such for the transfer case, and then lower ring and pinion gears? (I'm not made of money) [img]images/graemlins/40BEER.gif[/img]

Thanks for the info..

Stefan
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 08-13-2003, 05:25 PM
 
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Re: gearing

I have been running 32's with 4.16 for a few years. It has worked pretty well, but just recently went to 5.8 gears and still running a 32 tire. I switched gears due to wanting lower gears for off road. As far as hi range they seem to be close to the same. [img]images/graemlins/chairfall.gif[/img]
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post #3 of (permalink) Old 08-13-2003, 07:34 PM
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Re: gearing

you should read the post on trail tough's BBS about this very thing. it suggests doing less of a Tcase reduction and doing some R&P reduction instead.

helpful stuff

~daxe
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post #4 of (permalink) Old 08-13-2003, 07:51 PM
 
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Re: gearing

This is a direct quote of the Trail Tough article

While doing transfer case gears is probably the biggest bang for the buck and a quick-fix, it is definitely a lousy way to try and create a reliable, trouble-free drivetrain. So think about this for a minute...you put on larger tires, so your pinion now becomes TWICE as hard to turn putting TWICE as much stress on the u-joints, transfer case mounts and the transfer case itself, as well as the brackets on the side of the frame that holds the transfer case in place. It leads to problem chasing such as having to use unnecessary large and heavy driveshafts, having the bolts pull out of the transfer case on the long arm side, having the mounting boss break off of the transfer case or having the short arm side bracket start to tear off of the frame rail. It is because you have given your transfer case up to 3 times as much power by putting in lower gears and now the transfer case wants to do flip-flops in its mount. Many people consider only the POWER issue of this equation as opposed to considering the STRESS LOADING situation as well. You need to change the ring and pinion gears also - relative to your tire size - which will make the driveshaft easy to turn again, taking all of the strain off of these parts - just like it was made from the factory when the smaller tires were on it. It is a mistake to do all of your gear reduction at one point. Especially that far up the mechanical chain. Do yourself a favor....reduce the ratio at the ring and pinions relative to the size tire you want to run, then select the transfer case gears that will best meet your 4-wheeling needs. By going this route, you will have a well thought out and trouble-free drivetrain, working well within the parameters of strain that the parts can and will reliably handle.
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post #5 of (permalink) Old 08-14-2003, 12:29 AM
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Re: gearing

Alright, so it sounds like I should go something like 4.17 or so in the transfer case, and around 3.9 or so ring and pinion.

Thanks for the info

Stefan [img]images/graemlins/RockOn.gif[/img]
post #6 of (permalink) Old 08-14-2003, 09:31 AM
 
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Re: gearing

i am curently running 4 to 1 t case gears and 4.57 ring and pinon with 33 inch tires i dont drive many freeway miles and am now wishing i went to 5.13 but i will probably go to toyota axles so it is kind of a waste (4.57 gears, locker rear disks)guess i need to build another samurai [img]images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]
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